40/44 tech and buy sell swap

[blueskyracer]

44XS Powerhead Build Instructions final draft.doc This is Jerry Wienandt's final draft of his 44XS powerhead rebuild instructions..Enjoy..He just finished it

[trident]

Thinning Inventory

Thinning my parts inventory, but willing to help any newbies or even not so newbies, with tech advice on 40 or 44 Stock or Mod.

Drop me a note to my shop e-mail, tridentracing@new.rr.com. I can help on tech info with C Mod Merc, too, but I have no parts in stock. Sold the C stuff long ago after my wife quit racing C… For Yamato’s call someone like TJ… he’s good and these are not my specialty.

Just sold my remaining D (40) pistons and rings, and I’ll sell anything else I have that fits the 40’s only. Haven’t built any 40’s in years, but I love those motors (still have my Merc Challenge motor).

I’ll maintain some 44 parts for D Mod and for the 44XS motors, but selling off stuff that I have too much of.

Also have way too much 402X, 35SS parts. Why? Yes, I have a tower with both stud patterns drilled.

Have KA carbs, WMA carbs, found some KB2A (C Mod?), too.

Also selling 4 new Mercury OEM 3 ring 44 pistons, +.030” with pins, rings and clips. Pricey and rare.

Drop me a note if you’re looking for something, as I just might have it.

I prefer not to put this stuff out on e-Bay, as I’d prefer it goes to sanctioned racers, rather than collectors, but then their money is good too, if the racers don’t want it.

Jerry Wienandt
Trident Racing

[trident]

40 / 44 Porting, Urban Myths and Just Plain Bad Info

OK, let’s dispel some bad info here, that seems to have taken on a life of its own…

Oooh, someone found a high port 40 c.i. block, must be an electric start Mark 55.? Not so fast…

On the basis of looking at and working on lots and lots of these blocks, owning and racing many, and still owning a few examples of some unusual ones, here goes…

1) Early Mark 55 Service motors are all ported the same. That is, the early 40’s were ‘double cut’ with a 9/16” cutter to get the dimensions listed, intake and exhaust, top and bottom, in the APBA spec sheets. Those two cuts overlap, thus leaving the ‘bumps’ in the port webs and outside edges. (The holes were drilled, not milled, so there was no lateral movement of the cutter to clean up those ‘bumps’.) Same with 55H blocks, double cut 9/16”, except that the top dimension was raised .060” on both intake and exhaust.

So much, for the urban myth that raising intake ports will not allow the motor to run…

And, there are no separate part numbers for electric start ‘high port’ Mk 55 blocks. Same blocks as rope start. Duh, think about it… a high port motor would crank easier, not harder, as it has a lower effective compression ratio…

BTW, those early Service blocks, below about serial number 89…., dark colored, so beloved by Ron Hill (and me) had an unusual sleeve edge that projected into the transfer passage without the usual thick, chunky aluminum casting edge of the later blocks. And, those early (1955 approx.) service blocks were very well made and machined, with port dimensions close to spot on! It was rare to find one more than .005” out of nominal spec. across all four cylinders. My best service block D’s used these blocks.

2) Late 40 cu. in. blocks, Mk35A, Merc 300, Merc 350 and all 44’s up to 1994? are ported the same. That is, all are single cut with a 5/8” cutter to put the top dimensions, intake and exhaust, the same as the earlier double cut versions, to maintain the original port timing. Yes, the ports are bigger, yes, the centers of the two outer ports are spread outward, but the bottom dimensions are different from the double cut versions, as the hole is 5/8” (.6250”) from top to bottom. More on that later…

Then just to really confuse us, the very last 44’s had 5/8” single cut exhaust ports with the ports raised by .050”. These are oil injection pump equipped blocks and are not APBA legal for the D Stock class on the 44XS. There are, however, earlier blocks with the oil injection cavity cast in, but not machined through, that have the 44XS legal porting. It is allowed in APBA D class rules to fill that cavity on those later 44XS blocks.

3) 30’s and 40’s were manufactured with both the four separate port covers and the later two ‘Siamese’ port covers. However, all 44’s were made in the two ‘Siamese’ port cover version only. There were some transition era 40 blocks (I’m guessing late 1957?) with the two port covers, machined with the double cut 9/16” ports, but all four port cover blocks were double cut 9/16”. All 44’s, two port covers, were made with the 5/8” single cut ports. Sheesh…

Now, this is opinion and conjecture on my part: I would guess that the reason for the change to single cut was most likely cost, as it reduced machining operations. And, the motors made more than their rated horsepower anyway, so what’s the downside, from Mercury’s perspective?

Well, the downside to us is that we make race motors out of these later blocks, where the single cut 5/8” hole does create a problem. First evidence of this was when they allowed the 5/8” port Mk 35A style block to be used in the D stock classes, where the block proved to be unsuccessful against the double cut version. A little math, or some careful observation shows us why… The single cut 5/8” hole has a bottom dimension noticeably higher than the double cut port. This is not a problem on the intake side, as the piston timing edge doesn’t go down all the way past the port opening at BDC, but on the exhaust side, the piston goes down well past the lower edge of the port opening, leaving a ‘step’ or ‘lip’ of cylinder wall obstructing the exhaust flow coming down the piston deflector ramp. Oops! No good can come from that!

In a stock class, where all blocks are ported this way, these motors are not optimized for performance, but at least they are all the same. We have parity. Think 44XS.

But, simply lowering the port bottoms to the double cut dimension helps immensely! Think D Mod.

Now here is where it gets sticky on the 40 cu. in. blocks. Mercury made 55H blocks originally in the four port cover block casting with the ‘high port +.060” 9/16” double cut ports, then made MK 55H-1 (the white ‘square top’ cowls) with the later two port cover block casting, machined the same way, 9/16” double cut, 55H high ports. Replacement blocks (no serial number) were made in both style block castings over the years, and just to make it really confusing, later replacement blocks were made with that same double cut 55H porting, but on the early ‘60’s Merc 400 / 500 style block casting. That is, two ‘Siamese’ port covers, with the bosses on the block bottom for the square early Merc 500 exhaust tuner. These bosses are cast in, but unthreaded as on the 1960 Merc 400. Now there was a potential cheater motor! Of course, none of our stock racers would ever sneak a 500 tuner in there, would they? Why does that one motor have a different exhaust note? Nah, never happened, must be an urban myth.

I do recall an odd sounding DU with a motor built by a guy who worked on Murdock St. in Oshkosh… go figure.

So, could a supposed ‘high port Mk 55’ really be a replacement H block? A factory screwup? Or what? You decide… but I’m sure it wasn’t a normal production item.

Jerry

[trident]

Inventory Reduction. Wow, that was fast...

Wow, sold the +.030" 44 pistons just minutes afer posting my Inventory Reduction note.

Already had to say 'sorry, already sold' to the next inquiry

Thought I better let you all know, I don't want to waste anyone's time.

Drop me a note if you need anything else.

Drop me a note if you need technical help.

Jerry

[jon66w]

Weinandt built 55 h's for sale

trading on jerry's good name to sell things, i have two of his 40 ci mercs rebuilt by him to his specs. Both have 120 psi plus and only have about two hours on both since rebuilt so are not broken in yet. Both feet rebuilt by thomas. First is real 55h, 1956 serial 984298, all original and std. Bore. Restored to original factory colors. Perfect for show but should be run in classic racing.
Second is also same vintage but has black fishing block. Also painted black and has factory issued challenge series cowlings. My avitar shows this engine running on my 1978 stippich at wakefield. It's strong and right and is twin to jerry's.
I also have a jerry built "junkyard dog" 44 built with the correct parts. I'm keeping it to get "speed fix" on my stippich.
I can't post pictures as they were posted before so send me an email and i will reply with pix and any other details you ask for. Thanks for looking, walters@plantationcable.net

[bh/]

some pix

Some of Jons pix are on this thread, and others.

http://www.hydroracer.net/forums/showthread.php?t=24279

[trident]

Good name?

Geez, Jon, at least get my name right.

And every 40 on a Quicky is NOT a 55H. Those Merc Challenge motors are service block based. No real name for them, but maybe 55SH would be accurate? Anyway we don't want to misrepresent anything.

My own 55SH, or whatever it is, is based on the so called 'black block, so beloved by Ron Hill and me. Early Mk. 55, 1955 model... Jim Ruck bore, matched new +.015" 'flat top' pistons, etc. The best of these were sort of Junkyard Dogs, but very fast dogs, as they were a builders delight of selecting the optimum parts from the various modelyears of Mk. 55's. If anyone would like a list, drop me a note. tridentracing@new.rr.com

Jerry Wienandt

[jon66w]

Jerry WIENANDT

Sorry Jerry, My spell check didn't catch the i before e rule. I thought if any had a ? about these engines, they would drop you a line because you keep meticulious records. I mentiioned that the challenge Engine had your favored "black" block and all other parts you favored to very close matching for weight. Hate to have to sell them and prefer not to go to Craigs list or e bay but they are getting too heavy for me to horse around. That's why I'm selling my box trailer and putting the Stippich on a small trailer with the 44 permanantly attached so I can back it in water ready to go like a OPC. Regards, Jon

[trident]

Too Heavy

Yup, I hear that. With my shop drop ceiling, I move one panel and have one movable and one fixed 2X6 (to clear a heating duct) that span the joists above, with an eye bolt installed. That and one of those compact ratcheting chain hoists (Northern Tool, get the 1/2 ton one, its more robust) help get these lifted onto a wheeled dolly or onto to my high bench motor bracket. I like the motor high to work on, but I just can't lift them up there anymore.

I have found, however, two things i like about getting older.

1) it beats the alternative

2) you can get away with stuff. Say something stupid, others just say, ignore him, he's old. I get ignored a lot.

Jerry

[Yellowjacket]

..... with the bosses on the block bottom for the square early Merc 500 exhaust tuner. These bosses are cast in, but unthreaded as on the 1960 Merc 400. Now there was a potential cheater motor! Of course, none of our stock racers would ever sneak a 500 tuner in there, would they? Why does that one motor have a different exhaust note? Nah, never happened, must be an urban myth.

I do recall an odd sounding DU with a motor built by a guy who worked on Murdock St. in Oshkosh… go figure.

Jerry

In NBRA, a later stock 44 on a 35ss tower is legal....

NBRA requires stock, down the the pan, but after that the tuner is free, they explicitly say so in the rules. And I'd think a tuner would help for sure.

Went to put my 77 Merc 500 powerhead on the 35ss tower and the pipe part of the pan that the stock 500 tuner slips onto is way too long, it hits the back of the inside of the tower, so something has to give...

The 77 Merc 500 had a long sheet metal extension on the tuner pipe, most likely to help boats get out of the hole and make power down low, at least that's what I'm thinking looking at the hardware.

Instead of just hacking it off the exhaust at the pan, I'd like to think I could come up with a round tuner that would be "S" shaped and would fit down the tower. It would be relatively easy to trim back the pipe that's part of the pan, and since it is round, just clamp on a section that is the right length.

The 44xs tuner is a lot shorter, does anybody have one laying around that can give me a starting place as to the length, even better, any ideas as to how long the internal tuner should be for a D runabout????

[trident]

Tuner

Yup, I have one of those 35SS Towers for sale, the rare version with both stud patterns… complete, Clamps, Swivel, Co-pilot, Tower and Access plate. All original.

And what is ‘stock’? Can you use the splitter (3 different stock versions, OEM) exhaust cover plate on the powerhead? Can you use the latest 44XS version. That’s stock OEM on late fishing motors

In the tower, on the 500, that long tube attaches into the shifting gearcase with a large grommet, then the outer housing fills with water when the motor is running, making it slightly quieter while the exhaust goes out the tube through the case and thru hub prop.

On the 35SS tower, discard that whole tube, just run the short pipe that is cast into the plate. Shorten to suit. Get a couple, to experiment with and cut one an inch shorter, test, cut again if needed, to find the ‘sweet spot’. Ever see how short the 35ss 402X tuner was? Little dinky thing.

BTW, the 44XS tuner should really be called a detuner. It was tested and developed to set a certain performance level that would not instantly blow the best 55’s away, in the interests of having a smooth conversion / adoption of the new motor. If anything, I’d say that pipe is too long…

Jerry

[Yellowjacket]

Doh!!!! Forgot about the need to pipe the exhaust to the thru-hub.. Obviously that's why it has the looooonnngg pipe.

NBRA isn't quite like APBA yet.. The rules just say a 44 "stock" Merc, and specs the cabs (any 1" that came on the motors) and the port dimensions. So I'm guessing you could probably put on parts that fit, and so long as it's a bolt on, go with it. That might lead you to a pretty stout motor, since there are lots of pieces that could be interchanged....

Another intrepertation would be any power head that came that way from the factory (parts can't be updated or backdated to pick the best ones), but I don't know.

Ok, I'll trim the pipe to be pretty short and what looks like a good fit, and then cut and try some different length pipes to slip over what will be left of the tube on the pan. How long was the tuner on the old 500's???

[trident]

44's with tuners

Haven't looked at the old square bolt on pipe in years... from memory, maybe 6" or so. It wasn't real long.

OK that leaves a great big gray area you want and need to clarify in your rules, as some of these parts are NLA and simply superseded to the next version. APBA allowed that. See my write-up for part numbers. Can you use the two ring pistons? Can you fill the oil pump cavity?

What about flywheel? What are you allowed?

If that's what they want, run just the parts that came with the motor, no later pieces, you're stuck in that you can't replace a worn or damaged part, because its been superseded...

On that basis, I'd build a clone of the original 44XS prototype (I got to race that motor, in a demo, in with DSH), which was a current 44 on a 35SS, 402X unit. Later, they added the oil pump cavity, later yet they changed the crank and so on...

Once you know the answers about this issue, contact me at my shop e-mail... much easier to work in that, can attach files and such easily.

Jerry

[Yellowjacket]

On that basis, I'd build a clone of the original 44XS prototype (I got to race that motor, in a demo, in with DSH), which was a current 44 on a 35SS, 402X unit. Later, they added the oil pump cavity, later yet they changed the crank and so on...

Once you know the answers about this issue, contact me at my shop e-mail... much easier to work in that, can attach files and such easily.

Jerry

Jerry,

That's exactly my plan, to build a clone of the original 44xs prototype. We'll see how it goes, I'll keep in touch.

Thanks,

[trident]

44XS Prototype Clone

Go one year newer... remember the prototype was pre-production.

The '86 motor had the carbs with fuel pump 'sandwiches' in each and no pump boss. The '87 has the big boss on front for the square pump and the WMA6 carbs. (just use the direct bolt up pulse source, plug the other) Those run really well, and are easy to work with... Or go with whichever model, a year or two later, with the WMA7's, primers, no chokes, no choke shafts, IF you can fill the pump drive cavity that appeared around then...

BTW, I have nice blocks for sale for the '87 version. One is at Jim Ruck's to be honed to standard bore, one is here, and I haven't even disassembled it yet. Still Standard bore. Anxious to see that crank... hoping its nice.

Also have lots of the other needed parts.

Can you run the two ring pistons? OEM, then, was three ring...

OK, now that we're building YOUR motor, not discussing this in general, please take this over to my e-mail.

Jerry