40/44 tech and buy sell swap

[PRO-MOTIONRACING]

I would put a rash guard (tape or split hose) around that water hose as it passes over the steering bar, you would be surprised how fast it will wear from vibration. Also I put one on the inside plug wire as it exits the cap and rubs on the motor plate.

No need for a spray shield when you are out in front!!! 50-R

[blueskyracer]

I would put a rash guard (tape or split hose) around that water hose as it passes over the steering bar, you would be surprised how fast it will wear from vibration. Also I put one on the inside plug wire as it exits the cap and rubs on the motor plate.

No need for a spray shield when you are out in front!!! 50-R

Don't expect to be a lap ahead like you Dale

[Danny Pigott]

Dmh

Mike, your motor looks good. I would carry a spare mag belt an mark the fly wheel and mag gear top myself to make it easy to change the belt fast. Drill a small hole in the very end of the carb idle jet hole an run a small wire though the hole an twist it. The idle jet will come out, an these carbs love those springs. I have been doing this for 40 years an won championships and the Insp. never said a word about it. Now i see other people doing it some one even told me it is a rule now. The spray shield is pretty good, mine always covered the whole mag. Check the carb top screws after first run they like to come out when the gasket seats good. these are just a few of the things i have run in to over the years. Dad would ckeck every bolt on the motor after each heat. The mag will work fine if you know what you are doing with one, that comes with time. Good luck, you are about to have the time of your life just hearing the sound when you give it the gas.

[blueskyracer]

Mike, your motor looks good. I would carry a spare mag belt an mark the fly wheel and mag gear top myself to make it easy to change the belt fast. Drill a small hole in the very end of the carb idle jet hole an run a small wire though the hole an twist it. The idle jet will come out, an these carbs love those springs. I have been doing this for 40 years an won champships and the Insp. never said a word about it. Now i see other people doing it some one even told me it is a rule now. The spray shield is pretty good, mine always covered the whole mag. Check the carb top screws after first run they like to come out when the gasket seats good. these are just a few of the things i have run in to over the years. Dad would ckeck every bolt on the motor after each heat. The mag will work fine if you know what you are doing with one, that comes with time. Good luck, you are about to have the time of your life just hearing the sound when you give it the gas.

I have a spare belt and the Mag Allan just did a few posts back as a back up. I had a Yamato eat a throttle return spring and it was ugly. Dont want any more hungry engines. Thanks for the hard learned lessons

[sassykroll]

Wtb rods 44 mod

looking for good used set of rods for my 750 MOD 44 Merc. 500 Rod I have are part #632-7621A3 Thank You ! sassykroll@aim.com
WALLY 3-W

[ram95]

Ground wire

Scrutinizing your fine work, I do not SEE a ground wire from the magneto to the block.

It is important that the mag is grounded nicely to the crankcase. I do see that you have the link fixing the mag for max spark advance. However, that link doesn't fill the bill because it's on the mag tower separated from the mag by the mag shaft bearing and/or the mag tower bushings.

Make sure you have a GOOD ground wire attached to a bolt on the mag housing which is then connected tightly to a crankcase bolt. Without that ground wire, your mag can't talk to the ground electrode on the spark plug(s). So..., we will have a "failure to communicate", like in Cool Hand Luke.
Alex

[Guest]

Fuel Tanks

I have a number of new fuel tanks that mount on the tiller bar. These tanks hold about 1 1/4 gallons of fuel. The cost is $245.00 with shipping.

Alan
apvw1@aol.com

[blueskyracer]

I have a number of new fuel tanks that mount on the tiller bar. These tanks hold about 1 1/4 gallons of fuel. The cost is $245.00 with shipping.

Alan
apvw1@aol.com

I bought two ot these from Allan and they are of high quality and very professionally done.

[David_L6]

I have a D stock block (44XS style - will need to be bored and ported to race mod), a set of small wrist pin pistons & rings (.040" over) that McDaniels had built a few years back, and a set of NOS small wrist pin rods that I will sell. NOT CHEAP. Pistons cost me $400 plus shipping.... Rods weren't cheap either....

I also have a stock (fishing motor) powerhead that I'd sell (should have a good crank, large wrist pin rods, flywheel that can be taken apart.... the reasons I bought it are the flywheel and it is the same style block as my 44 mod) but weight becomes an issue when trying to ship...

[RandY Aveline]

Note FYI addition of material is legal as a repair only !! in MOD division i cannot really speak for Stock

it seems i have seen no 1 mention this lil bit of info

we had to repair a small crack in my crank case cover from a rod letting lose (rods were honed to much and ate the crank rod bearings)

[RandY Aveline]

I would guess you set it to what works for your set up but is it somewhere in the 230-240 range. Don't give away your secrets just a ball park. Fixed sytem is what I think I will have. Get the engine April 1st at Nationals.

stock fishing engine (merc 500)timing is approx .283 Before top dead center racing .300 and up depending on engine porting etc

a lot depends on how good of a burn you are getting on the top of your pistons ,with wrong timing you could definitely burn a piston
in harry brinkman s manual he talks about approx .350 to .375 before top dead center the manual is worth owning especially for new racers .

start low and work your way up best burn is when your engine is taken apart and the tops of pistons are as close to clean as new possible

should give you a place to start

hope i have helped some

Randy

[RandY Aveline]

Who has a XS style transfer port cover available ??

Brian
maverickracing@q.com

i find it interesting how many are looking for these type covers

some say they are good for 1 MPH top end ,i have never noticed any difference (not that my opinion counts lol )

the old style seems good for more volume of fuel and air to upper cylinders.

where the new style seems better as far as flow is concerned not sure why every 1 wants the newer style

guess the point of my post is ,
why is every one wanting the new style transfer port cover what is better about them ??

[PRO-MOTIONRACING]

Scrutinizing your fine work, I do not SEE a ground wire from the magneto to the block.

It is important that the mag is grounded nicely to the crankcase. I do see that you have the link fixing the mag for max spark advance. However, that link doesn't fill the bill because it's on the mag tower separated from the mag by the mag shaft bearing and/or the mag tower bushings.

Make sure you have a GOOD ground wire attached to a bolt on the mag housing which is then connected tightly to a crankcase bolt. Without that ground wire, your mag can't talk to the ground electrode on the spark plug(s). So..., we will have a "failure to communicate", like in Cool Hand Luke.
Alex

Good call, my bad.

[PRO-MOTIONRACING]

I would guess you set it to what works for your set up but is it somewhere in the 230-240 range. Don't give away your secrets just a ball park. Fixed sytem is what I think I will have. Get the engine April 1st at Nationals.

Look close at the pictures of your boat and you will find a clue as to the timing.

[blueskyracer]

Look close at the pictures of your boat and you will find a clue as to the timing.

The question about timing was way before I got the engine. I figured that was what the number was on the pulley.