40/44 tech and buy sell swap

[Guest]

Pro Marine

I have found a very good place to but Mercury parts. Dave Scott up in Canada told me about Pro Marine. I needed rings for the 44XS we were building and found them 30% of what Mercury wanted for them.
Here is their website http://www.promarineusaonline.com/
There phone is 800-621-7761

I have down loaded their catalogue for easy use. If you have a business you can open an account an account and get a discount on their cataglogue prices.
The prices are very good and each time I have called the parts were in stock and were shipped the same day. I did not see points in their catalogue but you can give them a call. Also they have OMC and other engine parts. Good people to work with.
Alan

[Guest]

Pro Marine

Sample page.

Alan

[thetrailergod]

when I am assembling the needle bearings I use Crisco , but ya gotta make sure that it is cold and not let it get to warm, , seems to be very sticky, and washes away very quickly when you got to start the engine, also very easy to wash off your skin, Also the HP1 ignition system on the 44 without the pipes on it that Art posted is my engine, Art put the ignition on it for me, as I have never done it before, I was in St Louis yeaterday to pick it up, We fired it up and it works great, By the way by the time I bought it , then sold off the extra parts that I do not need with this app. I have 0 dollers in it, so if ya do your research on this system, ya may come out really cheep on doing 1 of the HP ignitions,

[mtechmarine]

Vaseline works well as a needle bearing grease substitute.

On those points - unless the breaker arm is worn badly you can rework the contact surfaces and reuse them. Be sure that the 4 lobe cam is not excessively worn where the points run. I find that .008 seems to work better for worn points.

Pro Marine and Sea Way have been some of my main suppliers for my on line parts store at Mastertech Marine. Sea Way also has all the remaining 15A OMC parts. 800-332-0803, ask for Dave Losvar.

[blueskyracer]

I also found out that Mercury makes a grease just for loading needle bearings that will desolve away immediately after start up

[1100-one]

Red Line Oil carried it as well just for bearings and assembly

[blueskyracer]

Red Line Oil carried it as well just for bearings and assembly

You are right, Here is the link: http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=77&pcid=17

[Guest]

Lube and assembly

Mercury also make a number of other good ptoducts that i like. They make an anti-corosion grease that I have used for years on things that need to have motions and you don't want or need to disassemle the area oftion. Swivel pin is one of these areas. I also like the mercury assemble lube for holding the bearings in place. Split crankcases make rod assebly easier when compaired to the old 2 cylinders.
Alan

[ram95]

Go down to your local Merc dealer and ask for:

Needle Bearing Assembly lubricant, 8 oz tube, 92-802868Q 1, List $7.98
...better than vasoline, works pretty good-designed for the job by Merc. Keep your parts cool or it'll run all over just like vasoline.
Anti-Corrosion Grease, 8oz tube, 92-802867Q 1, List $7.98
...it says this stuff "provides a protective coating" and is good for all external moving parts; it's thick and it does what the name implies.
Special Lube 101 (light green color), 8oz tube, 92-802865Q02, List $19.98
...it says "is designed to withstand extreme friction loads", use it on pivot pins, prop shafts, and other things where you like the look of 'green'. Doesn't wash off easily and also prevents corrosion. Buy a tube.
2-4-C Marine Lubricant with Teflon, 8oz tube, 92802859Q 1, List $7.98
...according to the print on the back of the tube, this sheep-dip does just about everything that the other two greases do. But, because of the teflon most people will tell you NOT to use it on needle bearings INSIDE your engine. Personally, I think the stuff is over-rated. I like Lubriplate. But, be like the herd... buy several tubes!
Perfect Seal Sealing Compound, 4oz can with brush, 47-37559, List $7.45
...this is what you need to have for your port cover gaskets, exh cover gaskets, carb flange gaskets (optional), and even sealing your crankcase surfaces unless you're hung up on Gel Seal. It's the same as OMC 508235. It's waxey and cleans up easily. It is not a substitute for Gel Seal tho. Also, great on threads to keep them from corroding in your block, in the unlikely event your race engine is going to stay together for ten years.
Loctite 242 Thread Locker ( the blue colored liquid), 6ml tube, List $6.85 (not cheap).
...use this on 'clean' threads you want to be able to remove now and then like port cover screws, reed block screws, center main screws, end cap bolts.
Loctite 271 Thread Locker (the dark red liquid), 6ml tube, List $7.25
...use this on all 'clean' threads you are concerned would destroy your engine if loose.

There now... you still have enough money left for a Whopper Jr off the Value Menu, and you have just about all the recommended 'stuff' to stick your engine together with. Don't forget to use a torque wrench, til your fingers and elbow get calibrated.

Alex

[blueskyracer]

Go down to your local Merc dealer and ask for:

Needle Bearing Assembly lubricant, 8 oz tube, 92-802868Q 1, List $7.98
...better than vasoline, works pretty good-designed for the job by Merc. Keep your parts cool or it'll run all over just like vasoline.
Anti-Corrosion Grease, 8oz tube, 92-802867Q 1, List $7.98
...it says this stuff "provides a protective coating" and is good for all external moving parts; it's thick and it does what the name implies.
Special Lube 101 (light green color), 8oz tube, 92-802865Q02, List $19.98
...it says "is designed to withstand extreme friction loads", use it on pivot pins, prop shafts, and other things where you like the look of 'green'. Doesn't wash off easily and also prevents corrosion. Buy a tube.
2-4-C Marine Lubricant with Teflon, 8oz tube, 92802859Q 1, List $7.98
...according to the print on the back of the tube, this sheep-dip does just about everything that the other two greases do. But, because of the teflon most people will tell you NOT to use it on needle bearings INSIDE your engine. Personally, I think the stuff is over-rated. I like Lubriplate. But, be like the herd... buy several tubes!
Perfect Seal Sealing Compound, 4oz can with brush, 47-37559, List $7.45
...this is what you need to have for your port cover gaskets, exh cover gaskets, carb flange gaskets (optional), and even sealing your crankcase surfaces unless you're hung up on Gel Seal. It's the same as OMC 508235. It's waxey and cleans up easily. It is not a substitute for Gel Seal tho. Also, great on threads to keep them from corroding in your block, in the unlikely event your race engine is going to stay together for ten years.
Loctite 242 Thread Locker ( the blue colored liquid), 6ml tube, List $6.85 (not cheap).
...use this on 'clean' threads you want to be able to remove now and then like port cover screws, reed block screws, center main screws, end cap bolts.
Loctite 271 Thread Locker (the dark red liquid), 6ml tube, List $7.25
...use this on all 'clean' threads you are concerned would destroy your engine if loose.

There now... you still have enough money left for a Whopper Jr off the Value Menu, and you have just about all the recommended 'stuff' to stick your engine together with. Don't forget to use a torque wrench, til your fingers and elbow get calibrated.

Alex

Gee Alex I think you covered it all. Thanks this is good info for everyone but especially new folks that have not establish bad habbits yet!

And you even covered Lunch........

[blueskyracer]

Another question is Exhaust. What system do you prefer, why and who still carries them or are they still avaliable??

[trident]

Forgot one...

Gee Alex I think you covered it all. Thanks this is good info for everyone but especially new folks that have not establish bad habbits yet!

And you even covered Lunch........

Forgot an essential one.

LocTite 290 (green) AKA Wick 'n Lock. Will go into porosity or clean assembled fasteners by capillary action. I also use it on clean fuel fittings, where I don't want super strong bond, but I do want seal. Won't stick on oily, dirty stuff, tho. Clean it first.

Jerry

Oh, and stick to Subway for lunch if you tend, like me, to be full figured.

[Merc1]

Art where did you buy your ignition components from?

Hi Jerry!

66 G

[blueskyracer]

Forgot an essential one.

Jerry

Oh, and stick to Subway for lunch if you tend, like me, to be full figured.

I guess that works for a lot of us. Is that why we need big motors on our toys?

[Art K]

Electromotive ign

I bought the new system directly from from Electromotive,that is theXDI. I traded in a sytem HPV1 which is the early version. They gave me a generous trade. I had bought the HPV1 used off of ebay and had run it for a couple of years. The old system worked fine. I just wanted to upgrade. The HPV1 is no longer made. But they show up on ebay once in awhile. Generally can be bought for less than $300.00 If you are looking you want the 8cyl. version with the 4 coils. If you do buy a HPV1 you need to know that the factory no longer services it. But my experience has been very positive no real problems, other than some problems that I created learning how to set it up. I have this ignition on 2 of our 44s and on a Merc 25. Believe me their are plenty of plusses if you use this ignition. Feel free to call me if you have questions. Art K