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Giving a Bezoat a Second Chance

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  • Albert
    replied
    Because of my very tight ring gap I convinced myself a couple quick heat cycles before the basket case 80 goes on the boat would be a good idea.
    Here’s the second of two, it’s running a little rich and a little heavy on oil. I know the latter is counter productive to ring seating but I’d rather be safe and it wasn’t getting real hot. I just didn’t want to get out on the water and go right to beating on it to break it in. Yes I know everyone has their own opinion on engine break in just like everyone has a belly button.

    Here’s a link for some noise for those who want to hear another 80 running on land. Next video on this one will either be working out the tach settings or on the boat testing.


    https://youtube.com/shorts/q2tLctBRN5s?feature=share

    Leave a comment:


  • Albert
    commented on 's reply
    It occurs to me that I should really be writing up a “how to” and posting this stuff in the tech section.
    What holds me back is not knowing the proper sequence. I think with your comments Pete I could handle the pictures and do a good step by step for some of these basic 80 maintenance tasks.
    -how to re-ring your 80
    -how to set timing
    -how to re seal your foot

    I really feel like this info is lacking, and until a 25hp 4 stroke gets legalized I think 80s will continue to be a viable option for the new racer.
    Maybe a good off season project for next winter.

  • ZUL8TR
    commented on 's reply
    Good that the race can be polished and reused they are somewhat unobtanium like the point cam is that does crack at the key way, inspect. That roller race will not come off with Mr. F heat, both steel and expand the same ;-( Need to press it off and on with right sized ID steel tube. I used a 2 ton arbor with handle extension to remove those piggy back ball bearings at same time, but gear off first then bearings I use a small drop of red loctite on the gear nut with a nylock nut @ 20 ft-lbs. I double nut to thread bottom at outer prop shaft end and lock in a vise to hold prop shaft and remove and replace that gear nut, they are on very tight.

    I am sure you will also replace the O ring with the new tail seal you note you will replace.

    If you want to get into the pinion side of the gear case been there happy to advise.

    Been in my Y80 gear case often.

    Yes the fun continues ;-)

  • Albert
    commented on 's reply
    The fun is just ramping up!

    Firstly I did remove the outer o ring before bbq but placed it back on as a reminder to myself.

    I'm not sure why the discoloration happened on that inner race (perhaps from sitting still for 20 years?) but it feel fine using the finger feeler gauges.

    I think I will splurge and get 2 new roller bearings, they are inexpensive and I'm in there, same with the rear seal.
    The gears look almost new with only the smallest amount of visible wear where they mesh. The contact patch looks good.

    The new prop shaft came from TJ, who as always was very helpful.


    Will the small race for the needle bearing drop off the shaft if I heat it or should I press it off while I am pressing the gear off?

  • ZUL8TR
    commented on 's reply
    Great you used Mr. F to release, hard to beat the heat when done right! Just heat cone (without seal and O ring) to reinstall and hand push in place (few minutes, water under faucet speeds this up) until the heat transfer shrinks the aluminum around the ball bearings to lock them in the recess. If not it will not be fully seated. Outer seal easy to install after assembly.

    Check that race (with the stripes) for the caged rollers and see if can reuse with polish up? If ok press off and press on the new shaft. If race not ok do you have a new race to press on for the caged roller bearings? Check those caged rollers, the ring marks on the race look suspicious.

    Once you press off the ball bearings they can be more accurately checked for internal play after a good cleaning.

    How are the gear teeth, any pits, ok contact, was gear lash ok before pull apart?

    Where did you get the new prop shaft?

    The fun continues ;-)

  • Albert
    replied
    Some smart fella back on page 4 said if I put my cone in the toaster oven it would come right appart.
    7 minutes at 225 in the bbq and it came apart with a light tap from a piece of real Canadian maple .
    D73B7358-FACE-4563-BD81-935D0407FBB9.jpeg
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • ZUL8TR
    commented on 's reply
    Good call. Might be just fine, but time ages all. Post pics of what you are doing.

  • Albert
    commented on 's reply
    Pete,
    I'll make the call once it's apart. This motor had 0 discernable play in the prop shaft. It was a motor that was basically a back-up for a lake hydro. It saw very very little use in the last 15 years and I don't know if it was raced before that.

    This is good practice for when I need to rebuild the foot on my basket case motor.

  • ZUL8TR
    commented on 's reply
    Luc
    Great. While inside the case check the condition of the ball bearings in the gear case. I replaced mine on the prop shaft due to in out play (should be none) and some side play (caused lash changes and water entry). I replaced with 2- NSK 6202C3 on the prop shaft. The prop shaft caged rollers were in great shape. Also replaced the pinion shaft ball bearing with the same NSK 6202C3. If you do the pinion ball bearing inspect the drawn cup caged roller pressed in the throat and its bearing race on the pinion shaft. That bearing is a TA1725Z with 17mm bore, 25mm height and 24mm OD. Get all bearings from a NSK authorized dealer. Fakes abound on the Inet as I found out, no China made you want Japan made.

    Are you doing the seals at the pinion, prop shaft and the cone O ring? Gotta keep the water out!
    Pete

  • Albert
    commented on 's reply
    The new motor I brought home still had a metric prop shaft.

  • ZUL8TR
    commented on 's reply
    what you working on in the gear case?

  • Albert
    replied
    Good props are too hard to find so I’m converting this one to jet drive .
    3EAAB521-DAF0-47D7-8D76-E446CD2374FB.jpeg
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Albert
    commented on 's reply
    I had turned off the hose and only ran it for a few seconds.
    Probably stumbling as it was starving for air with the throttle fully closed.
    I didn’t dare rev it up as the kiddos we’re already in bed.

  • ZUL8TR
    commented on 's reply
    I see you have the water feed at the brass plug but couldn't see the water discharging out the right side relief hose. Is that at full mag advance? Sounds like it was stumbling some, what were you doing to cause that?

  • Albert
    replied
    https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ADA154rs0aA
    Quick video for posterity.

    Leave a comment:

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