The basket case 80 lives again!
I’ll see about some video later for now it’s just great to hear it run.
Time to start work on the new one.
Pete,
You were on in your description, when fed from the brass plug the motor fills to the point where it flows out of the exhaust outlet then eventually it sends water down the other port into the tower.
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To get water into the tower brass plug I use a rubber hose that closely fits the hole size and attach a fine jet brass nozzle into the rubber hose. The rubber hose is made in 2 pieces one that fits the tower hole ID and another that fits the OD of that hose and is glued in (I use E6000 great stuff) and that larger hose ID fits the brass nozzle jet tip. These brass hose nozzles that fit a garden hose are available at Lowes and Home Depot (are those stores in Maple Leaf country?). If not a hardware store might have them. Ask for more details if needed?
Then I tape the 2 cooling inlet holes at the tower exhaust snoot with aluminum duct tape works best for me to stick to the aluminum snoot and not come off under supply water pressure.
When I turn on the water pressure it comes out the exhaust snoot as well as the rubber relief hose at the power head. By varying the water supply pressure you can see the rate of flow increase at both locations without running engine. To do stand running to check timing adjustment with inductive strobe light I do not do it too long and keep the revs down and keep a look at the water flow at the power head rubber relief hose.
When under way before planning off there is a solid stream of water at the power head relief hose. On plane at speed there is also a good stream out the rubber relief hose but not as solid as before planning due to not perfect prop water blast. If under way and I back off throttle a little the water flow to the snoot 2 feed holes will stop until back on throttle. I run the Y80 at 1/2" - 5/8" below bottom with a parallel prop shaft to the boat bottom, no kick in or out. Boat airs out the best like this with sponsons about 2" off water at speed. -
I’ll try and answer your questions.
I wanted to feed water through the outlet because I didn’t have the proper fitting to go through where the brass plug is.
It was concerning because I assumed water only exited the motor through the hose from the exhaust manifold. So when I saw water exiting the tower instead of the coolant inlet ports I assumed I had problems.
The last two runs last year I had issues cooling so I’m a little paranoid about cooking this motor again.
My leading theory right now is that the port pictured above would release any water down onto the megaphone that could not flow through the water outlet on the exhaust manifold due to restriction.
When you run the motor with a hose to the brass plug does all water exit from the water outlet or does some exit from the exhaust/base of the tower ? -
Luc
I have never done this test you indicate.
I have only supplied pressure water at the brass plug on the tower with the 2 pickup holes taped up at the tower exhaust release snoot. Then see that a nice stream ejects at the bleed off hose like you have in post #175, I have that hose as well.
There is also a pic of you running with a nice coolant stream shooting out that hose, great riddle me this so why the concern? ;-)
Have you tested pressure water flow the way I describe above?
Do you think you have a water passage clog in the power head?
Where are you supplying the low P water in the test?
As far as I know there is no pressure release valve in the powerhead. -
5A3CF5BF-51DD-4BE2-A03B-0D9B614EA6AF.jpeg Alright Yamato 80 gurus riddle me this. Why is is when I feed low pressure water back through the motor it’s flowing out this port on the bottom of the cylinders instead of out of the regular coolant passage that leads down to the pickup?
Is this a pressure release that operates backwards when pressure is applied from the wrong direction ?Leave a comment:
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Luc
Filling with water may not reveal a leak other source possible.
Since you said you did get water in the boat when you were running it then somehow it got in? Assuming you did not get water splashed in when running and/or when you climbed in maybe it was a outside water pressure leak under way. Example making high speed left turns there is a lot of water pressure on the right side that could force water in a seam on the right sponson chine seam and/or on the rear chine seam. Look close there for any suspicious areas. This has happened to my hydro and it took a Holmes close look to see it.
Pete -
At the base gasket nothing but the gasket.
At where the powerhead meets the tower just the gasket...was going to run a little sealant around the exhaust but the gasket removed showed no sign of leaking. (I know double standard compared to the hg sealant
)
At the foot, I plan to run it once now that the flanges are in better shape If I still get a little water in the gearcase oil the sealant will come out.
I wonder why my photos are suddenly 90* off. -
E617BCCD-ECBF-495C-A5D1-EB3E1955403F.jpeg
A good cleaning and this thing might finally be nice enough to earn its keep on the back of the Bezoat!Leave a comment:
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No issues with head gaskets on this motor so far. I guess it’s a habit I just picked up when doing my first turbo diesels with 24:1 compression ratio and an extra 25psi of atmosphere being shoved in the cylinders the head gaskets on them needed all the help they could get.
As I said I’ve just always used it on metal head gaskets. I can see that it would probably cost you a very small amount of compression, but I think it’s worth it when you pull a head and immediately see at a glance if any part of the gasket has had a leak.
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