Giving a Bezoat a Second Chance

[Albert]

Patience, lube, luck, leverage...

[Albert]

I gave it a liberal application of the special penetrating lube last night. Likely won't have time now until Friday to see if I can get them fully separated.
I started by using wooden wedges, they didn't apply enough force. I then thought a brass wedge or two would be nice. I then proceeded to some steel wedges and a chisel.

[ZUL8TR]

Looking positive. Now get the PB Blaster or better if you have my favorite Kano Kroil penetrating oil in thru the stud holes in the tower and apply some heat and the penetrating chemical can get down between the stud and the tower hole. Might have to do a few times. Apply the wood wedge action along the way. Be careful at the gear case minimal gasket surface area at the DS bearing and seal fit.

[baries]

Good job, patients does pay

[Albert]

1 hour tonight got me a centimetre of progress. Didn’t end up getting the induction heater so had to take all your advice and heat the tower. Probably should have used more heat and less force. Fortunately it hasn’t bit me yet.
19C24520-3ABA-4FAF-93DF-513A3FA93725.jpeg

[baries]

I understand totally

[Albert]

I tried something similar with two small diameter chisels. I was working from the rear of the foot forward until the amount of pressure I was putting on it made me feel like the aluminum was going to start cracking.
Maybe if I had a few spares I would be a little more aggressive...but I’ve walked away twice so far because I felt I was about to break something.

[baries]

I had a similar experience on my 102 years ago, took two small steel wedges from opposing directions, this keeps the pressure square, tapped to tighten the wedges then using two hammers tapped the wedges toward each other, the stud popped loose easily.

[Albert]

No slight given or taken as far as I can tell.
You guys will be some of the first to know if it all goes sideways. haha

[ZUL8TR]

Luc
I know you are aware of heat 101 excuse if slighted. Since I have no experience with induction heating studs you note I thought that was to extreme to do at first. Heat cycling make sense to bust the corrosion lock. Your experience controls here. Hope it works out.
Pete

[Albert]

Pete,
I'm aware that heat expands metal (I think that was 5th grade stuff) but I've had success with heating manifold studs and the like then letting them cool. Sometimes an extreme heat cycle will break the corrosion that's acting as lock tite.
Didn't end up getting the heater yesterday but should this week.
I have a very thin hack saw blade that I can sneak in the small gap that's there but that will be the last resort.

[ZUL8TR]

Last resort Plan 3 would be no go if you can't get clearance to fit the say between the gear case and the tower.
Induction Heating the stud will expand it and make it tighter.
I would try heating the tower first to expand the stud bore hole and do your "Tried a little persuasion without luck" approach.

[Albert]

I know it’s been apart before. The seal at the rear looks new ish. There’s very little play. I guess I was just taking it off to see how it came apart. The dark line is the old gasket soaked in penetrating lube. I can get a razor blade through but that’s it. Rear stud moves freely but the front may as well be welded. Only a very small amount of play that seems to be coming from the foot not the tower.

I have a friend bringing me an induction heater this afternoon. Will try heating the stud up to an temperature of “glowing” hopefully the heat cycle will break the corrosion free.
If that doesn’t work I’ll proceed to carefully heating the area around where the stud passes through the tower.
Plan 3 is cut the stud and have the remaining stud drilled out...but that’s a last resort.

[ZUL8TR]

Maybe a previous owner glued the gear case to the tower, not good! The black dark line at the gear case seam has me wondering what is that, grease maybe?. Once the 2 stud nuts that secure the gear case to the tower are removed "in a normal assembly" the only snug area is the tower drive shaft seal OD that fits into a ID match recess in the gear case. It is not an interference fit. Gentle heat if you go that route. On my Y80 the studs do not fit snug in the tower there is play between the stud OD and the hole ID.

Once you get the gear case off what do you intend to look for? Maybe you posted earlier about any gear case work but do you know if seals and other items have been replaced?

[Albert]

Well I thought I would be thorough and pull the gear foot to have a look. That’s when I found the forward stud on the foot is seized in the tower.
It’s been soaking in penetrating lubricant for most of a week. Going to start with heat next to try and shock it free.
Tried a little persuasion without luck. 6F5A4D56-E66B-4145-97A3-7A9046E79381.jpeg
Hopefully get this split this week. Maybe finish up paint next weekend.