Originally posted by Smitty
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Konig 250cc
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Thanks for all the responses guy's !!!!!, If It wasen't for you guy's I'd be totally lost!!,
I work in the aircraft industry and diden"t know that about WD40 !!!!!!!!!!
I had alot of people PM me asking if the motor was for sale, I don't know what it's worth $$ ? but Unfortunatly!! ..I will keep it and carefully run it this summer !!, My long term goal is to play with this thing for the summer and join TORC and go racing next year. at that time I will probably sell it to help buy a competative engine...perhaps 25 SSH.
So be prepared for a lot of stupid question's ...cause I got'em !!!!!
Thanks again for the Help!!!!!
Cheers!!!!!
paul h
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Originally posted by paul hThanks for all the responses guy's !!!!!, If It wasen't for you guy's I'd be totally lost!!,
I work in the aircraft industry and diden"t know that about WD40 !!!!!!!!!!
I had alot of people PM me asking if the motor was for sale, I don't know what it's worth $$ ? but Unfortunatly!! ..I will keep it and carefully run it this summer !!, My long term goal is to play with this thing for the summer and join TORC and go racing next year. at that time I will probably sell it to help buy a competative engine...perhaps 25 SSH.
So be prepared for a lot of stupid question's ...cause I got'em !!!!!
Thanks again for the Help!!!!!
Cheers!!!!!
paul h
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Bill,
I know old A&Ps who swore by WD-40 and sprayed it in the wings of Connies to postpone corrosion from condensation.
Steve,
If you have been around this sport for any length of time, you are probably aware of the name and reputation of the late Harry "Zak" Pasturzak. Harry knew more about making Konigs go fast and last than you or I, or probably any member of this website. If I get around to finding some old letters from Zak, I can copy off a verbatim quote describing his recommended post-race "pickling" of a Konig running methanol/Blendzall. It specifically calls for the use of WD-40 as part of the proceedure.
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Bill,
Looked at your post again. WD-40 is not intended as a preservative, like LPS-3. It is a moisture displacer, and it won't keep doing its job after it dries out. People spray WD-40 on metal parts as if it were cosmoline, store the parts in an unheated shed, and two years later dig out the parts and find they are rusty. I think incidents like that are how word got around that WD-40 "attracts moisture." But it's easy to test on your own; just spray some water on a metal part, then hit it with WD-40 and watch it break the surface tension of the water, which then rolls off in big drops.
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Originally posted by SmittySteve,
If you have been around this sport for any length of time, you are probably aware of the name and reputation of the late Harry "Zak" Pasturzak. Harry knew more about making Konigs go fast and last than you or I, or probably any member of this website. If I get around to finding some old letters from Zak, I can copy off a verbatim quote describing his recommended post-race "pickling" of a Konig running methanol/Blendzall. It specifically calls for the use of WD-40 as part of the proceedure.
SattlerSattler Racing R-15
350cc Pro Alcohol Hydro
TEAM VRP
The Original "Lunatic Fringe"
Spokane Appraiser
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Originally posted by SmittyBill,
Looked at your post again. WD-40 is not intended as a preservative, like LPS-3. It is a moisture displacer, and it won't keep doing its job after it dries out. People spray WD-40 on metal parts as if it were cosmoline, store the parts in an unheated shed, and two years later dig out the parts and find they are rusty. I think incidents like that are how word got around that WD-40 "attracts moisture." But it's easy to test on your own; just spray some water on a metal part, then hit it with WD-40 and watch it break the surface tension of the water, which then rolls off in big drops.bill b
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Bill, take it easy, we're taking about how to keep Paul's Konig in good shape for somebody's collection someday. I don't sell WD-40. I still like Steve's idea of running the engine for a while on gas-and-oil to get all the alcohol out. It seems to me that even a "de-gummed" castor oil can hold enough of the alcohol next to machined parts to attract moisture and cause rust. Union Carbide used to make a polyglycol snowmobile oil which would mix with either methanol or gasoline. I would think this would be the kind of thing for Paul to use both when he is running around the lake on alky, and running the engine on the beach on gasoline.
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250 Konig
The WD-40 on the pipes just dries them off before coating them with a good rust preventive. I always did it that way and never had any concerns with deterioration. Rule of thumb..........when in doubt or even when NOT in doubt, always listen to Steve Litzell. Walt Blankenstine isn't taking calls and Steve has the answers.....BAR NONE.......Charley Bradley
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WD 40 and pipes
Actually we do spray the pipes with WD#40 before we put them in the trailer so they don't rust. We do not use it inside the engine. As far as the engines we drain the carbs clean the engine with carb spray and put it back in the trailer.
No rust, no gum
Kristi
Kristi Z-22
PRO Commissioner
APBA BOD
"Ask not what your racing organization can do for you...Ask what you can do for your racing organization"Tomtall 06
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Not Kevin's Engine
Kristi,
I know that the post race routione that you described does not apply to Kevin. You need to the following steps:
1) Turn boat back over
2) Remove spark plugs
3) Pull start cord approximately 100 times while occaisionally spraying gas into the cylinders.
4)Replace spark plugs
5) Pull start rope another 20 times or until engine starts.
6) Idle engine for a while.
7) Send boat to Tom Cronk's for repair
8) Secure promise from Kevin that this not happen again!!
David Weaver
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