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Step by Step Building a hydroplane / MRC is up and running
Vahur- Thank you for posting. Great workmanship and very nice styling! I don't have any idea what the work mean..... but wonderful photos!
Peter Crowley
Well the bottom is all done. Now I just need to find some help to flip it over so I can start the fun stuff. Anyone want to swing buy today and help me with that??
Doing the boat this way I never have to turn it upside down again unless I wanted to make a change. It is done..
I would like to add that I think some color on the bottom of the boats should be a safety requirement. When light and water conditions are just right and you are going 60-90 MPH trying to see a natural color boat that has gone over is really hard when you are only two feet off the water. Of coarse nobody plans to go over but it does happen.
Why varnish? Why not another coat or two of West and leave it at that? Have you found varnish to be lighter (weight-wise) than West? Is varnish more durable/easier to maintain than a West finish? I'm interested to learn the different techniques and preferences people have.
The boat looks great, by the way, and I really appreciate seeing your progress through the various construction stages.
Cheers!
Michael J. Mackey
Lola Boatwerks Factory Foreman
Pavlick Race Boats Factory Driver
Yamato Aficionado
21-V
With WEST SYSTEM and other epoxy they will degrade due to UV. West had an epoxy that has UV Inhibiters (207 I think), but I also coat with UV Inhibiters varnish... it leaves it shiny and can be easily redone.
With WEST SYSTEM and other epoxy they will degrade due to UV. West had an epoxy that has UV Inhibiters (207 I think), but I also coat with UV Inhibiters varnish... it leaves it shiny and can be easily redone.
Thats just what I was going to say. Varnish slows down UV damage and Epoxy will not. So unless you race in the clouds and rain I would add some varnish Not a problem in SEATTLE !!! LOL
You are correct to use captains spar varnish. J.R. at Gougeons tested all of the clear polyurethanes and varnishes over epoxy and ran weatherability tests. Captains prevailed two to one over the next best. If you want to use the nasty synthetic finishes, Ciba-Geigey makes the additive for do it yourself UV resistance.
I need to root around in my library to find a picture of a roll over rig that works with any boat from 8 to 180 feet. All you need is two sailboat blocks attached to your rafters and two pieces of rope to do it by yourself. Otherwise a case of beer works as well.
Actually..... the above comment about the boat bottom and UV damage made me realize that the bottom of racing boats are usually in MUCH BETTER condition than the top! The difference between the top and bottom is the result of the UV problem....
The boat is turned over now and have been making blocks to attach the deck stringers to. One side is glued and clamped and now I am on to the other side. I have lost time on this project since I have been mailing T Shirts, decals and working on motors.
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