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Step by Step Building a hydroplane / MRC is up and running
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Originally posted by Smiley View PostI'll be looking for you here at Eatonville and drool over your new boat. That makes at least two new boats. It will be interesting to see how many new boats will be here.
SmileyMike - One of the Montana Boys
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The deck is now on so time to fill holes, fair in the cowl and lots of sanding to get ready for paint.
Also note that the joints have a splice underneath and are temp screwed together. 3mm think wood is to thin for a scarf joint so they are butted together with a lap joint.Mike - One of the Montana Boys
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Mike,
How wide is the cockpit of the CSH version of this boat? When do you plan to weight this boat? You do plan to publish that number don't you?Raymond
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Raymond which boat did you want to know the weight. The new boat with our grand kid in it is way bigger that our CSH. It is a little over one foot longer and is a lot different. Now that I had to use the help when it shows up the boat is in the trailer for at least 3 weeks and it already has the hardware installed. Most folks weigh bare boats to brag. The cockpit in a CSH is 17 inches I believe.Mike - One of the Montana Boys
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Originally posted by blueskyracer View PostRaymond which boat did you want to know the weight. The new boat with our grand kid in it is way bigger that our CSH. It is a little over one foot longer and is a lot different. Now that I had to use the help when it shows up the boat is in the trailer for at least 3 weeks and it already has the hardware installed. Most folks weigh bare boats to brag. The cockpit in a CSH is 17 inches I believe.Raymond
Have you or your team set up a social network page yet? Do your part to expose and promote the sport when you’re not racing and create a presence online today.
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Originally posted by Raymond View PostI am curious of the weight of the C version. I want to keep weight in mind as we plan our growth move so we make a good choice for longevity. We currently have the problem of being heavy; when we move I want to have the opposite problem and I would like to stay that way through the years.
The next CSH I build I will weigh since I now have a scale that I can hang and get a true weight. Most of them with no hardware run right around 100-110 unless they use a lot of composite and then for the extra 10 lb loss it will cost you an extra $800-$1000Mike - One of the Montana Boys
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Final prep work before a coat of epoxy and paint. This boat will not have any wood showing. Nothing but three shades of blue and yellow. I am waiting for supplies so time to work on doubling the cockpit sides and installing the dash and floor.Mike - One of the Montana Boys
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The last big glue up today. Installed the cockpit coaming wall doublers. The sticks keep tension on the lower areas since it cant be clamped. The 1x4's along the side walls help keep them strait. Only need to maker a floor board and dash now. Then I need to make a fiberglass rear cowl and driver ramp.Mike - One of the Montana Boys
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I think I understand your end result; stronger coming sides. However I don’t understand why you didn’t do this on the front side. Why didn’t you build the comings up to final dimension before assembly?
I am not criticizing; I just want to understand why you use that technique over another?
By the way; this is a jam up thread! Who’s next, maybe with a runabout? Any prop builders our there interested in chronicling how they build a prop? How about motor builders? Someone care to chronicle a motor blueprint and build? Or how about a dissertation of gear feet design, application and fitment? I see many different sponson pad designs; anyone care to discuss them or are those race secrets?Raymond
Have you or your team set up a social network page yet? Do your part to expose and promote the sport when you’re not racing and create a presence online today.
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Originally posted by Raymond View PostI think I understand your end result; stronger coming sides. However I don’t understand why you didn’t do this on the front side. Why didn’t you build the comings up to final dimension before assembly?
I am not criticizing; I just want to understand why you use that technique over another?
By the way; this is a jam up thread! Who’s next, maybe with a runabout? Any prop builders our there interested in chronicling how they build a prop? How about motor builders? Someone care to chronicle a motor blueprint and build? Or how about a dissertation of gear feet design, application and fitment? I see many different sponson pad designs; anyone care to discuss them or are those race secrets?
On this particular design the coaming walls are curved more near the front. If you glue the doubler on before you put it in the jig then it is to stiff and will not curve right. On most other boats with strait walls it will work fine to put it all together first on a flat surfaceMike - One of the Montana Boys
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Originally posted by Raymond View PostBy the way; this is a jam up thread! Who’s next, maybe with a runabout? Any prop builders our there interested in chronicling how they build a prop? How about motor builders? Someone care to chronicle a motor blueprint and build? Or how about a dissertation of gear feet design, application and fitment? I see many different sponson pad designs; anyone care to discuss them or are those race secrets?
Also we just had one on Boat Set up.Mike - One of the Montana Boys
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No, I did not. I think I may have seen the boat set up discussion but not the D Mod Motor build.Raymond
Have you or your team set up a social network page yet? Do your part to expose and promote the sport when you’re not racing and create a presence online today.
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