Step by Step Building a hydroplane / MRC is up and running

[form-e one]

well since i know what class it is i wont give it away,,, mike maybe you can jump up into se/form-e with us now.....just to let you know ime just behind you on my new fe-hydro... putting on sponsons now...ie karelsen, and it big big big

[daveracerdsh]

Class

Come on, it's Tuesday night, I am sitting around with nothing to do, nobody has *****ed at me in the last hour about commission stuff...so I am bored. What class is your sled for? Come on...come on!

[blueskyracer]

Come on, it's Tuesday night, I am sitting around with nothing to do, nobody has *****ed at me in the last hour about commission stuff...so I am bored. What class is your sled for? Come on...come on!

Dave I am sworn to secrecy untill the engine builder speaks up but you know him since he is from your neck of the woods. And Cheyney don't you say anything. You were not to know since I only asked for some parts help from Dennis!!

[form-e one]

mike ya know where i can get any 10' 6mm sheets my neck of the woods,, since it getting old joining the wood together for my afterplane uggg...

[blueskyracer]

mike ya know where i can get any 10' 6mm sheets my neck of the woods,, since it getting old joining the wood together for my afterplane uggg...

Does Windsor plywood have 10footers. I also remember Ric Montoya had some advertised in the SOA news letter a couple months ago

[blueskyracer]

I will try to post some more progress pictures as soon as the weather warms up some. Having trouble getting the epoxy to fully cure again since temps have been in the single digits. This is getting old!!

[blueskyracer]

Now all the skins are on the bottom. Now a lot of sanding and some filler for deep heads.

[daveracerdsh]

What is the transom height?

[blueskyracer]

What is the transom height?

12 inches

[Smiley]

Couple hints on applying epoxy sealer.

1. Before gluing and nailing the bottom to the stringers; pour epoxy directly on the topside of the sheet(The portion against the stringers) and use a squeegee, not a roller. I went to the local NAPA auto parts store and purchased plastic squeegees used for auto body putty. Make sure the wood is warmed up and the epoxy is slightly warm so it flows and penetrates. The squeegee allows you to control the amount of epoxy applied to the wood without excessive thickness which is added weight. You only want to seal the wood; not coat it with a thick layer. You should be able to save about 30-40% weight of epoxy using this method over the roller method.

2. You can blot excess epoxy using paper towels and blot excess epoxy. A cheap 1 inch bristle brush, with bristles cut to a remaining one inch length can be used to stipple the paper towel on flat surfaces and inside corners. Epoxy is super heavy and any glue you can remove beyond its useful purpose will reap benefits and improve the look of your workmanship.

Bob Smiley

[Bill Huson]

epoxy sealer?

If you mean WEST resin or System 3 or Raka or the like, epoxy is not an actual "sealer". Epoxy allows moisture transmission. According to WEST one needs about six rolled coats of resin before to exclude moisture to an acceptable level for long term life.

Of course a race boat is not all that long term, and spends 99.9% of it's life high and dry, so I agree, forget rendering it impervious and go for flea weight. When doing 6 oz fiberglass over a cedar strip build I use squeegees, but for coating I am a roller fan. A rolled coat goes on quite thin and rarely runs or sags. Roll a coat on, tip off the air bubbles, soon as that coat gets stiff, roll on another coat, and then a third coat. Wait a week or at least 4 days for epoxy to cure out (depending on ambient cure temp), wash (to get rid of amine blush), then wet sand it with #220. Paint or varnish.

[blueskyracer]

If you mean WEST resin or System 3 or Raka or the like, epoxy is not an actual "sealer". Epoxy allows moisture transmission. According to WEST one needs about six rolled coats of resin before to exclude moisture to an acceptable level for long term life.

Of course a race boat is not all that long term, and spends 99.9% of it's life high and dry, so I agree, forget rendering it impervious and go for flea weight. When doing 6 oz fiberglass over a cedar strip build I use squeegees, but for coating I am a roller fan. A rolled coat goes on quite thin and rarely runs or sags. Roll a coat on, tip off the air bubbles, soon as that coat gets stiff, roll on another coat, and then a third coat. Wait a week or at least 4 days for epoxy to cure out (depending on ambient cure temp), wash (to get rid of amine blush), then wet sand it with #220. Paint or varnish.

Thats the way I do it Bill. If I am running low on epoxy or if it is the deck then I use the squeege to make for a smoother surface after it has been rolled. I might add that I use the foam rollers so I don;t get the little nap fibers in the epoxy

[Raymond]

Will the wash prevent the early sand gumming?

Bill,

Will this post cure wash eliminate or reduce the amound of paper gumming during the inital sanding. I have yet to try jumping to wet sanding so...your thoughts?

If you mean WEST resin or System 3 or Raka or the like, epoxy is not an actual "sealer". Epoxy allows moisture transmission. According to WEST one needs about six rolled coats of resin before to exclude moisture to an acceptable level for long term life.

Of course a race boat is not all that long term, and spends 99.9% of it's life high and dry, so I agree, forget rendering it impervious and go for flea weight. When doing 6 oz fiberglass over a cedar strip build I use squeegees, but for coating I am a roller fan. A rolled coat goes on quite thin and rarely runs or sags. Roll a coat on, tip off the air bubbles, soon as that coat gets stiff, roll on another coat, and then a third coat. Wait a week or at least 4 days for epoxy to cure out (depending on ambient cure temp), wash (to get rid of amine blush), then wet sand it with #220. Paint or varnish.

[Bill Huson]

for sure . . .

Bill,

Will this post cure wash eliminate or reduce the amound of paper gumming during the inital sanding. I have yet to try jumping to wet sanding so...your thoughts?

Amine blush and lack of total cure will goo sandpaper in a couple strokes. But just the wash won't do - should wait until the epoxy is cured, which can take a week if the environment (temp/humidity) is off. Your choice is, let it sit for several days and sand, or use the wet sanding drill.

[Smiley]

We learn something everyday. Thanks guys. When I was building a fiberglass airplane we used MC (Methelyne Chloride) to clean the waxy substance off the epoxy. Acetone was not too effective. MC is quite dangerous, so the labels say. Anyway, Thanks for your comments.

Smiley