I can look for that info tomorrow if that isn't too late.
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mercury racing lower unit alloy grade.
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I'd be afraid that post-weld heat-treating might distort the gearcase enough that the machining would no longer be true. If you're just welding a new tip to a broken skeg, maybe just a 175-200F preheat would do (and maybe FWIW have a propshaft and bearings in place and a cone torqued down, if you are having to weld close to the bulb).
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I have welded skags on by submerging the whole unit in a pan of water with just the skag sticking up. The body of the unit will stay cool. It takes a lot of heat as a lot of the heat transfer will go to the water. I have also made up a dummy cartridge and tightened up the cone to help hold it form distorting as much. I have a D merc unit we have been running for years with a lot of welding on it to make a hatchet type unit.
Larry Mac
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Welded Skeg
I have had several welded over the years, D Quicky, both 55H and 44XS, and SSM 6, with never, ever a failure... Won Nationals with welded skegs.
If yours failed at the skeg and it was distorted all the way to the top bearing, you don't need an alloy number, you need a skilled welder. Don't use the guy who did this ever again.
Jerry
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Agreed
I agree with Jerry. We have welded a good many skegs over the years. If one failed, it was poor welding. I have completely reshaped a gearcase skeg for superior handling charateristics, and that was under a SEH, or 850CCH Mod boat. Can't beat one up much more than that. Even the Pro classes are easier on gearcases than that.Dave Mason
Just A Boat Racer
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