Brian:
That's an old trick I had not heard of in a long time. Consider this. Calculating the reciprocating friction coefficient and applying it to what it takes from torque and horsepower at what specific places on the power curve. Just as one can gain more speed from reducing friction from the boat bottom as speed increases, theoretically, you could gain if the ring tension (friction) was enough to drag down the motor 2 MPH worth... The trick would be to look at what the loss was going to be if any by sacrificing compression at lower RPM ranges. I'm guessing here, but over 5500, the slight compression loss using one ring would not make much difference, it is when the engine is in the mids that you could get hurt.
At least in my simple cave man landscaper theory.
Back on point, how could anyone ever tell a non factory ring from a factory ring without a stamped part number?
That's an old trick I had not heard of in a long time. Consider this. Calculating the reciprocating friction coefficient and applying it to what it takes from torque and horsepower at what specific places on the power curve. Just as one can gain more speed from reducing friction from the boat bottom as speed increases, theoretically, you could gain if the ring tension (friction) was enough to drag down the motor 2 MPH worth... The trick would be to look at what the loss was going to be if any by sacrificing compression at lower RPM ranges. I'm guessing here, but over 5500, the slight compression loss using one ring would not make much difference, it is when the engine is in the mids that you could get hurt.
At least in my simple cave man landscaper theory.
Back on point, how could anyone ever tell a non factory ring from a factory ring without a stamped part number?
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