The Mercury vintage site has manuals for KH7, KG7, etc. once you’ve determined what model you actually have if you want it... just look through year and model associated with it under vintage mercury motors. http://mercury-vintage.marineservicemanuals.com/
I’m sure someone here can identify specific model... maybe from serial # stamped on block? best of luck!
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Here is a link to a Mark 20H 20cu.in race engine that is similar to your engine except more cu in and power, different carb, same ignition(?), same H short exhaust tower and other items. The gear case and the recoil guts are essentially the same, scroll down for what you need to see and maybe there are missing recoil parts?
http://www.boatracingfacts.com/forum...20H-parts-list
The water pump impellor is NOT the same as in the service outboard engine with shifting gear case it is much smaller. To get to it you need a special tool to remove the outer cone (with the 2 holes behind prop). From what I see your video that gear case has the up dated cone with inner cone with bearings. If you remove prop I can better see if that is the case.
These inner cone bearings are not lubed with the gear case lube they are separately greased and should be serviced after each use. Once the cone is off you can evaluate the condition, if parts needed supply sources are available. That outer cone is on pretty tight (100 ft lbs and may be seized ?) and with a left hand thread - righty loosy lefty tighty. Do not attempt to remove the cone unless you have the special tool to do it or it will get damaged. See bottom of page 1 of 2 in link for a picture of the tool. There is also a special tool to remove the water pump cartridge housing (scroll to near bottom of page 1 of 2 for pic) - this tool not needed if just replacing the water pump impellor.
Since that water pump rubber impellor is really old it should to be inspected for any dry rot before running the engine, pieces could break off and wind up in the power head - then its a search and remove process a PITA. Sources available for water pump impellor as well as all Quicki parts.
Working on these Quicki gear cases can be a challenge if not familiar with them to do internal work, if you want to attempt ask questions before going ahead.
Do you plan on a non epoxy top coat like solid paint color, auto clear or varnish? UV not good for epoxy and it will degrade over time. -
Update: Finishing the hull, and digging into the race motor.... I am not even clear what I have here. KG7? KE7? I am having trouble finding any diagrams for the quicksilver lower unit, do these use the same waterpump impeller as the stock fishing version? Also, my recoil is stuck, please watch near the end of this video to see what I'm dealing with; it makes no sense why it locks up. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Cheers!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qm6huk37SdoLeave a comment:
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This site has the manual... download is $4.95 (1949 KE7)
http://mercury-vintage.marineservice...ce-Manual.htmlLeave a comment:
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I am pretty excited. Is there a user manual or PDF anywhere for this engine?Leave a comment:
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Did you scrub the hull with water and a green scrub pad, then dry with paper towels to remove blush before recoating? West Systems recommends that process (p. 29, https://www.westsystem.com/wp-conten...anual-2016.pdf). Other epoxy products may recommend ammonia/water solution to remove blush... drying with paper towels after scrubbing removes dissolved blush in water... -
The Mercury Lightning is a KE7. Labeled as a 10 hp but is more like 16hp. With the Quicksilver lower unit and the proper propeller that will be a pretty fast boat. Be sure to wear safety gear, a good life jacket and a helmet. That setup should be able to come close to 50 mph if set up properly.
kkLeave a comment:
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Second episode, enjoy and please give me any feedback, as I've never restored a wood hull before.
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If you're using the West system use the pumps that come with the kits. Two pumps one for the 105 and one for the hardner, which ever one you use does not matter the ratio is the same. The pumps are different sizes, the epoxy pump has a larger volume than the hardner. The ratio is 5 to 1 built into the pumps. One stroke of each gives you the desired mix. In 45+ years of working with West system have never had a failure, it is a good fool proof system.Leave a comment:
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Call the technical staff at either or both West System and Jamestown Distributors ...... as mentioned before... you need to do this.Originally posted by ADDvanced View Post
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WOOOF. Well, I sanded all the epoxy down w 120 grit and let it cure in the sun a couple days, wiped it off, and last night I went to put on my finishing coats of epoxy for the final leveling. Total disaster. Idk why, but the epoxy beaded up on the cured epoxy like water on a freshly waxed car. I don't even want to go into the garage to look at it this morning. Time to research what happened...Leave a comment:
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Has the epoxy cured since your 5/15 post #24? Test with fingernail leaving no mark when pressed hard on epoxy? It should cure after 2 days even if cold with the right hardener. If not cured how well did you mix it? With your 5:1 mix epoxy it is very critical to get the correct volumes of each, just a little off will greatly effect cure. I prefer 1:1 or 2:1 for that reason. I always do a test mix when ever I use epoxy to test cure, poor cure is a big PITA.Leave a comment:
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yeah orbital, sorry. It's taking a long time to cure, but the temps have been hovering from 48-60 degrees tops the past few days, so it makes sense that the curing is taking a bit longer than normal.Leave a comment:
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You usually can't see blush it is a waxy coating that forms on the surface during the cure process, if present it will effect the bond between coats if not removed, then sanding needed for next coat. I looked up the epoxy you are using and did not see any thing about if blush free? The supplier can tell you if blush free, usually the slower hardeners are blush free.
Since you added epoxy coats while still somewhat tacky there should be no bonding issues.
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FYI From google:
Blush (amine blush) is a waxy layer that forms as most marine epoxies cure. When very bad, it is a visible white layer, otherwise it might not be visible, but still there. It is due to moisture in the air during cure. Specifically the amines in the curing agent can react with carbon dioxide and moisture to from ammonium
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That epoxy you use is 5:1 ratio therefore mixing the correct amounts is very critical for proper cure and they give calibrated pumps that should guarantee proper proportions? I always check the pumps for accuracy. Are you having any cure problems,?. When epoxy is cured well a finger nail pushed hard will not leave a mark on the surface and it sands to a fine powder.
Use 120 grit to start with, see if that sands well with no clog, expect to change paper often. My experience if the epoxy cures well sanding dry will usually not clog the paper.
IMO Disk sander too aggressive on those high areas use an orbital, maybe that is what you mean?Leave a comment:
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ProMarine Marine Epoxy
https://promarinesupplies.com/521-ma...e-epoxy-resin/
Haven't seen any blushing as of yet. Should be 70 tomorrow, should probably cure pretty decent in the sun all day.
For sanding I was thinking about hitting all the big lumps with the disc sander and feathering flat, then starting to just use a 2x4 with some handles screwed on to it, a bit of foam, and some glued on sand paper. Not sure what grit to start at yet.Leave a comment:
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