Picked up an 8' Hydro/Runabout thing last weekend, what is it?

[ADDvanced]

Second episode, enjoy and please give me any feedback, as I've never restored a wood hull before.

[krazy karl]

The Mercury Lightning is a KE7. Labeled as a 10 hp but is more like 16hp. With the Quicksilver lower unit and the proper propeller that will be a pretty fast boat. Be sure to wear safety gear, a good life jacket and a helmet. That setup should be able to come close to 50 mph if set up properly.
kk

[ADDvanced]

I am pretty excited. Is there a user manual or PDF anywhere for this engine?

[Shane_B]

This site has the manual... download is $4.95 (1949 KE7)
http://mercury-vintage.marineservice...ce-Manual.html

[ADDvanced]

Update: Finishing the hull, and digging into the race motor.... I am not even clear what I have here. KG7? KE7? I am having trouble finding any diagrams for the quicksilver lower unit, do these use the same waterpump impeller as the stock fishing version? Also, my recoil is stuck, please watch near the end of this video to see what I'm dealing with; it makes no sense why it locks up. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Cheers!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qm6huk37Sdo

[ZUL8TR]

Here is a link to a Mark 20H 20cu.in race engine that is similar to your engine except more cu in and power, different carb, same ignition(?), same H short exhaust tower and other items. The gear case and the recoil guts are essentially the same, scroll down for what you need to see and maybe there are missing recoil parts?

http://www.boatracingfacts.com/forum...20H-parts-list

The water pump impellor is NOT the same as in the service outboard engine with shifting gear case it is much smaller. To get to it you need a special tool to remove the outer cone (with the 2 holes behind prop). From what I see your video that gear case has the up dated cone with inner cone with bearings. If you remove prop I can better see if that is the case.

These inner cone bearings are not lubed with the gear case lube they are separately greased and should be serviced after each use. Once the cone is off you can evaluate the condition, if parts needed supply sources are available. That outer cone is on pretty tight (100 ft lbs and may be seized ?) and with a left hand thread - righty loosy lefty tighty. Do not attempt to remove the cone unless you have the special tool to do it or it will get damaged. See bottom of page 1 of 2 in link for a picture of the tool. There is also a special tool to remove the water pump cartridge housing (scroll to near bottom of page 1 of 2 for pic) - this tool not needed if just replacing the water pump impellor.

Since that water pump rubber impellor is really old it should to be inspected for any dry rot before running the engine, pieces could break off and wind up in the power head - then its a search and remove process a PITA. Sources available for water pump impellor as well as all Quicki parts.

Working on these Quicki gear cases can be a challenge if not familiar with them to do internal work, if you want to attempt ask questions before going ahead.

Do you plan on a non epoxy top coat like solid paint color, auto clear or varnish? UV not good for epoxy and it will degrade over time.

[Shane_B]

The Mercury vintage site has manuals for KH7, KG7, etc. once you’ve determined what model you actually have if you want it... just look through year and model associated with it under vintage mercury motors. http://mercury-vintage.marineservicemanuals.com/

I’m sure someone here can identify specific model... maybe from serial # stamped on block? best of luck!

[ADDvanced]

I am not seeing a serial number anywhere. Blows my mind people are still trying to make money on manuals for engines close to 100 years old. These should be free at this point. I'd hate to buy a manual only to find out it's for one with a regular lower unit.

It looks like my rear cone has been opened/tightened with a plumbers wrench as it's marred up a bit. Can you repost your link? That one isn't working.

[ZUL8TR]

Wrench on cone not good

Here is link again

http://www.boatracingfacts.com/forum...20H-parts-list

Do you plan on a non epoxy top coat like solid paint color, auto clear or varnish? UV not good for epoxy and it will degrade over time.

[DeanFHobart]

Remove the ‘manual start rope pull’ on top of the flywheel.... this was not stock and could be causing the bind up of the rewind.

Also, when the rewind is off of the top and you try to pull it, the two starter magnetic pawls go inward,... keep them apart as if they were engaging the starter ratchet nut.... the rope should pull out. Try that.

[ADDvanced]

Wrench on cone not good

Here is link again

http://www.boatracingfacts.com/forum...20H-parts-list

Do you plan on a non epoxy top coat like solid paint color, auto clear or varnish? UV not good for epoxy and it will degrade over time.

I'm undecided. I want to run it with raw epoxy, see how fast I can get it going, then do pads of graphite epoxy to see if it makes any noticable speed difference.

Also, is this the waterpump impeller I need?

https://www.oldmercs.com/product_p/47-20813.htm

Where does one find the special tools needed to remove cone at the back of gearcase? I'd like to redo the seals, if it isn't too hard, then change the grease, and feel confident I won't blow it up.

[DeanFHobart]

For the cone tool.... Brown Tool and Machine....btmco.com.... Or Antique Outboard Motor Club Inc.... AOMCI.org..... or the old merc parts company that you have been to.

[ZUL8TR]

I'm undecided. I want to run it with raw epoxy, see how fast I can get it going, then do pads of graphite epoxy to see if it makes any noticable speed difference.

Also, is this the waterpump impeller I need?

https://www.oldmercs.com/product_p/47-20813.htm

Where does one find the special tools needed to remove cone at the back of gearcase? I'd like to redo the seals, if it isn't too hard, then change the grease, and feel confident I won't blow it up.

Try the raw epoxy run then the other stuff, getting accurate noticeable measurable results will prove difficult, too many testing variables days apart. But give it a go. I found a different process that worked great in my race days and still used at local AOMCI events.

That is "not" the correct pump for the Quicksilver race lower unit that takes a Merc part #47-20945 that fits your gear case and others used on several race engines. Here is one for $58 at oldmercs. My concern on these is how old are they and how stored and if the rubber has dried out and if cracks at the blade roots? Before ordering call Ron Thomas below and he can tell you what he has in stock and condition

https://www.oldmercs.com/product_p/47-20945.htm

Working on the Quicksilver gear case is not easy to do 1st time in there, special tools required and parts are not readily available. I suggest you call Ron Thomas and ask questions, he is expert on these units and rebuilds them and has all the parts then decide if you want to tackle it or have him do it?

As for seals there are 5 for the gear case as noted in the link for the 20H engine I posted above. Some bearing suppliers have them except for the special large square section O ring on the water pump cartridge and the drive shaft seal that is NLA but a substitute is available. There are 2 special tools, one to remove the outer cone and the other to remove the water pump cartridge, pictures in the 20H link. These tools are not readily available so contact Ron Thomas and Frank Erion if they have them or can advise where to get.

Contacts:

Ron Thomas the Foot Doctor Merc gear case rebuilder and has all the parts he knows all the details, great resource.
email: birdfoot_23@yahoo.com
414-353-4465

Frank Erion has a huge supply of the Merc race engine parts including seals, prop shafts, gears, bearings, etc:

Classic Merc Racing Engines and Parts
Frank Erion
email: fderion@msn.com
269-720-1337

[ADDvanced]

Alright, couple updates:

I built a form on the back trailing edge of the hull out of wax paper, cardboard, and scrap wood, in order to build up the rear edge. I used microspheres in the epoxy to build a thickened amount, and used tape to try to keep it captured to build up, then sanded it flat.




Still need to block it, but getting pretty close. Look good?

[DeanFHobart]

Looks good to me.

[25xs]

You did well to sharpen up the trailing edges of the bottom in the pictures above... You won't find a "spoon fed" service manual for your engine or especially for the gearcase. You'll just need to be patient and take the free advice from unpaid volunteer help on these websites.

There are three or four guys who offer a paid service to rebuild/repair your quicksilver racing gearcase and if your budget allows, it's the best way to go. Ron Thomas (The Foot Doctor) North of Milwaukee, Doug Kay near Detroit or Steve Roskowski, Indianapolis come to mind right away as expert, trustworthy shops to send the gearcase to get it back in shape to run. It's a rare bird, with constant maintenance required to keep it healthy, otherwise it's a $1,200 paper weight if you screw it up. The engines are a dime-a-dozen in the antique outboard motor circles as basically a fishing engine and you likely won't damage the racing exhaust tower so concentrate your effort on making the gearcase reliable.

Could you post some pictures of the engine...? Not really wanting to watch all the YouTube videos to catch up on this project.