Giving a Bezoat a Second Chance

[Albert]

Is this thing on?
Done sanding with 320, one more pass with 600 grit then its time for stripes then a couple coats of clear.
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[ZUL8TR]

What is the design for the colors? Have you clear coated the bottom and sides or will that be done after the colors?

[Albert]

Nothing has been cleared yet. I did play with tape for half an hour but haven’t landed on something just right. Stripes will be minimal, nothing over the cowl.

[ZUL8TR]

Post some sketches of the tape design and let's see what you came up with, suggestions might be helpful.

[Albert]

First time shooting clear coat ...and a new gun. But I think the bottom came out ok. Only 1 small run.

[TomSki]

Howdy Albert. Tom here from Ottawa. I've been admiring your Bezoat resto from the beginning. All I can say is SPECTACULAR JOB!! The level of craftsmanship and detail is second to none. Looking forward to seeing the finished product aa well as some video.
I am the fortunate custodian of a vintage Bezoat as well. They are a beautiful boat (as are all old race boats).
cheers
Tom

[Albert]

Tom,
Those are very kind words. Mr Carruthers really showed his skill on this one.

Hoping to spend a day this month painting. If I’m honest I’m going to re spray the clear on the bottom as well. Just not happy with how it came out.

[bh/]

Albert; -if u are still looking for a race jacket, there is a good vintage GENTEX FS in Ottawa on Kijjii. for C$100. Not currently legal in APBA racing, but adequate for vintage , and of the same era of your BZ.

[bh/]

Albert; -if u are still looking for a race jacket, there is a good vintage GENTEX FS in Ottawa on Kijjii. for C$100.
Not currently legal in APBA racing, but adequate for vintage , and of the same era of your BZ.

[deeougee]

Brian he needs an up to date jacket. He’s going to race that ride in 20ssh. Looking for cut suit also. He’s around my size 5’10” 175 lbs.

[Albert]

Thanks guys for the leads, I believe I had a deal secured on a jacket but some postage issues kind of have that in limbo.

As Deeougee said im planing on making it down to race in Maine when the boarder allows, may even be bringing a second boat down with me and another new racer to race 20ss.
Cut sleeves will be next on the list...

[Albert]

EE1536C0-8CAB-425D-94C7-DAB9746FD614.jpeg Hard to tell from the pictures but the bottom came out much better this time around. The sponsons and sides are great. The middle is still a little marbley but I think I’ll leave it for now and start on the top next time I’m up.

[Albert]

Sometimes you just run out of time before you can keep taping and do the second colour.

We played with tape for hours but ultimately it’s hard to argue with a simple stripe that will split into the white background for the numbers.
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[Albert]

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Due to a small miscommunication between the clean up crew and myself we all get a sneak peak. The newspaper was supposed to come off the tape was not.
Cant wait to get the green laid down now.

[Albert]

Well I thought I would be thorough and pull the gear foot to have a look. That’s when I found the forward stud on the foot is seized in the tower.
It’s been soaking in penetrating lubricant for most of a week. Going to start with heat next to try and shock it free.
Tried a little persuasion without luck. 6F5A4D56-E66B-4145-97A3-7A9046E79381.jpeg
Hopefully get this split this week. Maybe finish up paint next weekend.

[ZUL8TR]

Maybe a previous owner glued the gear case to the tower, not good! The black dark line at the gear case seam has me wondering what is that, grease maybe?. Once the 2 stud nuts that secure the gear case to the tower are removed "in a normal assembly" the only snug area is the tower drive shaft seal OD that fits into a ID match recess in the gear case. It is not an interference fit. Gentle heat if you go that route. On my Y80 the studs do not fit snug in the tower there is play between the stud OD and the hole ID.

Once you get the gear case off what do you intend to look for? Maybe you posted earlier about any gear case work but do you know if seals and other items have been replaced?

[Albert]

Pete,
I'm aware that heat expands metal (I think that was 5th grade stuff) but I've had success with heating manifold studs and the like then letting them cool. Sometimes an extreme heat cycle will break the corrosion that's acting as lock tite.
Didn't end up getting the heater yesterday but should this week.
I have a very thin hack saw blade that I can sneak in the small gap that's there but that will be the last resort.

[ZUL8TR]

Luc
I know you are aware of heat 101 excuse if slighted. Since I have no experience with induction heating studs you note I thought that was to extreme to do at first. Heat cycling make sense to bust the corrosion lock. Your experience controls here. Hope it works out.
Pete

[Albert]

No slight given or taken as far as I can tell.
You guys will be some of the first to know if it all goes sideways. haha

[baries]

I had a similar experience on my 102 years ago, took two small steel wedges from opposing directions, this keeps the pressure square, tapped to tighten the wedges then using two hammers tapped the wedges toward each other, the stud popped loose easily.

[Albert]

I tried something similar with two small diameter chisels. I was working from the rear of the foot forward until the amount of pressure I was putting on it made me feel like the aluminum was going to start cracking.
Maybe if I had a few spares I would be a little more aggressive...but I’ve walked away twice so far because I felt I was about to break something.