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Giving a Bezoat a Second Chance

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  • Ron France , 'trailer balling' a prop (yours ?) @Dunnville, 2010? RF D_V 2010.jpg

    Ron, getting ready @Waterford , ON
    RF WF 10.jpg
    Brian Hendrick, #66 F
    "the harder we try, the worser it gets"



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    • Albert
      Albert commented
      Editing a comment
      Anybody that puts the kind of work that I have since learned is involved making a prop and that is then willing to tweak it with a hammer and a trailer ball deserves ...I’m not even sure what? Happy to see that the prop came from someone who knows how to get the job done with the tools at hand.

  • https://youtu.be/k2SMfDsQL6o
    This is probably boring for you veterans, but a first warm up of a basket case motor is pretty exciting to me.

    Comment


    • ZUL8TR
      ZUL8TR commented
      Editing a comment
      Sounds about right, great job with a basket case. Is the mag locked at full advance or still moveable? If not locked probably ok for lake playing. What max timing before TDC did you set the mag at?

    • Albert
      Albert commented
      Editing a comment
      Mag was loose. Going to be honest with you. I just set it to about the middle of its travel and visually checked the points gap. It started so easy I must be close . Carruthers is going to walk me through the timing procedure next time I’m up. Guess we’ll see how close I was.
      Last edited by Albert; 04-29-2021, 06:59 AM.

    • ZUL8TR
      ZUL8TR commented
      Editing a comment
      Probably not close on the timing with just feeler gage. These Y80's are prone to not keeping the timing once set. This is primarily because the top roller bearing on the crank is a loose fit at the factory thus there is lateral side play and wear occurs unevenly. This lateral play is not good for getting the timing accurate. With 2 cylinder race engines point ignitions should be set so the spark occurs at the same distance Before TDC on both pistons. Setting point gap alone will not do this accurately. On my Y80 I set timing using: feeler gage, accurate inductance based buzz box(mine from AirCraft Spruce) and a 1" dial indicator. I lock the mag at max timing setting. I also check with a timing light surprising results noticed. If interested in details I can provide them and how to do. Once understood process and done a few times takes only about 20 minutes to do.

      Did you set the reed heights?

      Tip keep the air no load running to a minimum.

  • Pete,
    I do really need to get there water fed to it next time. I also doubt it’s healthy to rev it too much with no load on the motor.
    I whipped this together the other night but I don’t think my 1970s buzz box will be cutting it.

    It did seem lazy once running so it wouldn’t surprise me to find the timing is a little retarded.
    When I get schooled on setting the timing I’ll post up and you can correct my bad habits as they form.

    In the meantime if you want to share a bit about setting reed hight I’m all ears.

    Comment


    • ZUL8TR
      ZUL8TR commented
      Editing a comment
      Luc Yes not healthy to rev to much at dry start with no load and especially blipping the throttle is no good when using it on the boat, but it sounds good ;-) I have found that the inductive buzz box works the best for point coil condenser ignition, very accurate. You have a good dial indicator and that looks like 14mm adaptor that fits your head spark plug threads that your engine has + feeler gages just buzz box needed.

      To do the reed height setting remove the carb and manifold as a unit with 6 nuts. Then each cylinders reed block is just slipped off the studs. Could have done this reed adjustment when you had it in pieces. Per APBA specs the max reed height is 0.281" = 9/32 " = 7.137mm. If you want to go a bit more up to you but this height gives adequate air fuel flow. Note that the reeds do not sit flush on the pyramid base they are up about 0.006" to 0.009" with a factory shim per APBA, leave them that way. To check opening I use a 9/32" drill and place the barrel end under the reed at 90 degrees to the reed long dimension fully contacting along the reed width. Now pressing down on the drill so that the reed is pushed to be touching the aluminum pyramid base if set correct only 1/2 the barrel will fit under the reed stop at its very end. To raise or lower the height the reed stop can be carefully pushed up or pushed down to meet the required height with the drill bit barrel installed as noted. Hope this is clear.

      Pete

  • Mini project getting the old Keller throttle cleaned up. It’s not new but it’s a lot more presentable than it was. Some solvant , then scotch brite pads followed by good old Autosol brought it right around.

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