Reeds

[STEVE FRENCH]

That does not explain why the exact same reed tip fraying occurs on motors where the tips are not in the same area as the crank.

Gott'a agree with pops that hardest time on a race motor is git'n on plane (over-rev) and "blip'n" throttle...sounds cool (especially on a open pipe/megaphone), but gott'a be rough on the reeds?

19P

[deverhart1]

reeds

I used reeds from Phil Mcdaniel, using the regular reed stops and heights.
David Everhart S52

[sadiemydog1]

Reeds

I have used Phil Mcdaniels reeds. They do seem to last. But I am not sure if he is even in business anymore. If anybody knows please let me know. Need his phone # also.
Art K

[David_L6]

Art, I just e-mailed Phil's address and phone number to you.

[sadiemydog1]

Reeds

David, did not get your message.
Art K

[Larry Mac]

I'm going with Sam on the reeds. I have been having reed problems for 35 years and it still is a problem. I have used the short reed stops, long reed stops,heavy oil mix, reeds cut from go-kart material, reeds from motorcycle, carbon reeds, boysen reeds (single and the dual reeds) made some out of kevlar and they still chip or fuzz out. I have the crank beveled so I know they are not hitting the crank. I have cut ebrows around the reed blocks on the tip for a oil pocket. The only thing I haven't done that might help is to have the reed block coated with some kind of rubber for a cushion for the reeds to land on. And last Kevin doesn't do all the throttle blipping I often hear. I'm open to any ideas.
Larry Mac

[David_L6]

Try it a different way.

Art,

Check your private messages here.

[runaboutralph]

I have ran phils reeds (thick not the thin) for 10 years with no problem, but then my motor turns about 3000 rpm less than kevins.

[Larry Mac]

I have ran phils reeds (thick not the thin) for 10 years with no problem, but then my motor turns about 3000 rpm less than kevins.

How do you turn 300 less rpm but go 5 mph faster than Kevin?????????
Larry Mac

[runaboutralph]

tab told me that the reeds bend backwards rather than what you think they do according to some school he went to. i think he said that they had it on film with the tips hitting at high rpms. i think phills reeds last so long because the end is square and offers 10 times the area to hit verse a rounded one

[Larry Mac]

tab told me that the reeds bend backwards rather than what you think they do according to some school he went to. i think he said that they had it on film with the tips hitting at high rpms. i think phills reeds last so long because the end is square and offers 10 times the area to hit verse a rounded one

I think Tab is right about the tips hitting. Most of the time our reeds are chipped on the inside edge. I think they are twisting also. I have made a few reeds with the square ends and I think it makes sense. The only thing about the square to cover the reed opening at the end sometimes will cause the outer reed edge to stick over the reed block. I bought a strobe light and have been thinking of a way to look at reeds while turning the motor over at speed.
Larry Mac

[David_L6]

I've had my share of reeds break too.

I'd like to try some just a little wider than stock to see if that would help. Maybe a little wider and with square end also.....

[alky6]

You are correct

I think Tab is right about the tips hitting. Most of the time our reeds are chipped on the inside edge. I think they are twisting also. I have made a few reeds with the square ends and I think it makes sense. The only thing about the square to cover the reed opening at the end sometimes will cause the outer reed edge to stick over the reed block. I bought a strobe light and have been thinking of a way to look at reeds while turning the motor over at speed.
Larry Mac

When the reeds begin to go up and down faster (higher RPM) than the resonant frequency of the reed, then the reeds begin to form into an "S" shape and the tips begin to hit the reed block first (where and how depends upon the center of gravity of the reed petal and the pinch point). One could rubber coat the reed blocks to "soften" the surface. Stiffer reeds can help slow down the damage since there would be less time the reed spends beyond its resonant frequency.

-Paul Fuchslin

[jeff55v]

In my opinion.

then the reeds begin to form into an "S" shape and the tips begin to hit the reed block first

And to continue with this line of thought ( that I agree with ) ... If you can find a way to reduce the reed's deformation at high speed, you will extend the reed's life and ALSO IMPROVE PERFORMANCE!

So Steve, in my opinion this IS a speed secret. Not just a way to prolong reed life.


Did I mention it only takes me 30 minutes to change reeds in my Tohatsu?

[sam]

And to continue with this line of thought ( that I agree with ) ... If you can find a way to reduce the reed's deformation at high speed, you will extend the reed's life and ALSO IMPROVE PERFORMANCE!

The main way to reduce the reed's deformation at high speed is to make the reed stiffer ... but making it stiffer reduces performance. The alternate is a different shape; but some shapes will also effectively be stiffer and reduce performance. A Catch-22 situation