Lower unit sealer?

[pro350hydro]

Just wanted to give an update on this thread. Someone else may need this info too.

The Three Bond #1104 worked great. I never did find any MEK. I used acetone to clean the case halves with. (Don't try to buy two gallons of acetone at the same time from Wal-Mart. They won't sell it to you! They told me that it's used to make illegal drugs of some kind.... )

I bought the 1104 from: www.hiperf.com.

1104 works great! I use it as well. You should be able to buy MEK @ Home Depot #20 or BLowes, but I do not support the #48 Sponsor, cause I'm a #8 fan............

Sattler


How's that mod running? That boat was sweet @ Pineville

[David_L6]

1104 works great! I use it as well. You should be able to buy MEK @ Home Depot #20 or BLowes, but I do not support the #48 Sponsor, cause I'm a #8 fan............

Sattler


How's that mod running? That boat was sweet @ Pineville

Mike,

I fixed the water leak on my motor and it's running as well as it ever has (O'Brien motor - It's fast).

The boat is great. Couldn't ask for a better boat.

I like #8.

[sam]

David, I've had success with Locktite gasket maker stick #39154 (orange)

But I also check and flatten the surfaces before I assemble. True fit may allow less picky sealant

[Al Peffley]

Yamabond and Yamatos

All,

I have used Yamabond 4 on my engine block halves and had great success with it, if you use a thin coat and make sure that both surfaces are EVENLY covered right up to the machined edges with a very smooth coating. Yamabond comes in a range of adhesive strengths and flexibility characteristics and, I am told by some northwest AMA mechanics, is used by many professional motorcycle roadracing teams that burn high performance fuels (I think the GP guys use a methanol blend of fuel). Bob Goller one time told me that if you have to use a lot of gasket sealer, or any sealer, for assembling outboard motor parts there must be something wrong with the machine work (the machinist did not machine the surfaces properly to allow for temperature range expansion and contraction -- exactly flat is not always good for all mating surface applications, especially power heads.)

Which types of Yamabond failed your gearfoot assembly application?

As a side note, my gearcase slowly wheeps grease like a SR-71 when I use red RTV to seal it, but I change my Sta-Lube 90 racing gear oil after every race, and sometimes after every day of racing (more than two heats). I have been operating like this for five years now without a blown set of gears; but then, I'm not turning the RPM's that some of you are turning above the 250ccH class I check the torq on the foot fasteners before every race. I race on a very small budget, so losing a gearfoot and gears is a really big deal for me.

I am concerned about the availability of good quality (hardness and gear teeth machining) replacement or new gear sets. Seems like most of the 350ccH racers out here are on the West Coast are going through a lot of (expensive) new Yamato and custom foot gear sets with their latest-design gearboxes! They are having trouble with excessive gear shaft travel, and in some cases improper gear teeth machine work. What's the gearbox breakdown rate on the East Coast and in the Mid-West this season? Is there anyone out there that specializes in gearbox assembly techniques that would be willing to give a shimming and assembly tips "workshop" thread on this subject matter (through annotated pics on this website), without giving out any "super-squirrel" race secrets?

Al Peffley
R-25