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Here are my thoughts on this. I am not an expert but I will try to add some clarity and a couple of warnings. I will describe two types of fixes for the Picklefork fix. Both have been described in the previous posts.
1. attaching a semicircle to the inboard side of the radius. FastJack, Bruce and others have described this. This style works well on a picklefork where there is a wooden vertical wall on the inner surface. However,
a. you must round the outer radii out to 45-degrees outboard of the forward-most point.. AND
b. you must leave at least 1/2-in thick section at 45-degrees outboard of the leading tip
If these aren't done, it isn't right.
This approach can also work on other styles (where there isn't a flat vertical surface) but more sanding is required. However, the amount removed is probably safer than the with approach 2.
2. Removing material from the tip make it blunt. HydroKyle has described this appraoch.
a Use a Sharpie to mark the "1-inch radius" using a 2 or 2 1/8-inch circle template, hole saw or equivalent.
I used a Surform rasp to rough it out and finished up with an orbital sander. An advantage is that there is no new material that may get knocked off on incidental contact. There are two (maybe more?) warnings on this.
a. You need to know that there is enough solid material in the tip. If you expose a hollow section or leave the remaining material too thin you have more work to do. AND
b. you must leave at least 1/2-in thick section at 45-degrees outboard of the leading tip. If you don't plan on this, your original Shaprie mark will not be far enough back and you may need to
i. remove more material than planned OR
ii. Add material to thicken the section to 1/2-inch.
If this has added confusion I apologize.
1. attaching a semicircle to the inboard side of the radius. FastJack, Bruce and others have described this. This style works well on a picklefork where there is a wooden vertical wall on the inner surface. However,
a. you must round the outer radii out to 45-degrees outboard of the forward-most point.. AND
b. you must leave at least 1/2-in thick section at 45-degrees outboard of the leading tip
If these aren't done, it isn't right.
This approach can also work on other styles (where there isn't a flat vertical surface) but more sanding is required. However, the amount removed is probably safer than the with approach 2.
2. Removing material from the tip make it blunt. HydroKyle has described this appraoch.
a Use a Sharpie to mark the "1-inch radius" using a 2 or 2 1/8-inch circle template, hole saw or equivalent.
I used a Surform rasp to rough it out and finished up with an orbital sander. An advantage is that there is no new material that may get knocked off on incidental contact. There are two (maybe more?) warnings on this.
a. You need to know that there is enough solid material in the tip. If you expose a hollow section or leave the remaining material too thin you have more work to do. AND
b. you must leave at least 1/2-in thick section at 45-degrees outboard of the leading tip. If you don't plan on this, your original Shaprie mark will not be far enough back and you may need to
i. remove more material than planned OR
ii. Add material to thicken the section to 1/2-inch.
If this has added confusion I apologize.
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