Removing 102 Tower

[BillCNC]

That oil could be from putting the motor up for storage during the winter before you got the motor. Lots of folks wet down the cylinders before they put the motor away with just oil or LPS.. So bottom seal maybe leaking

Blueskyracer,

I never thought of that, it dose make sense.

Thanks
Bill

[BillCNC]

Boy, ... the exhaust area, ... it's pretty thick with carbon and grime, ... should I remove the exhaust tube and clean it all out down inside the housing, ... or dose it even matter?

It look pretty three dimensional in there.

[Jack Stotts]

That accumulation in the downhousing won't hurt anything but since it's apart you might as well clean it out. A power washer does wonders but the last time I did it I used engine degreaser. If you pull the pipe out watch for shims under the pipe bracket between it and the housing shelves. When re-assembled it should be flat with the top edge of the downhousing. Lay a straight edge across the top of the housing and the exhaust end. Should have no gap. It looks like you had a pretty good seal to start with. Remember where the shims, if any, were before you removed the pipe and replace at the same screw. That pipe bracket sometimes breaks so look at it around the screw flanges. Jack

[BillCNC]

Hi Jack,

I sure don't want to crack any flanges, ... so maybe I will just leave the pipe in there and jut push the pressure washer hose down inside the housing between the housing and the pipe. We'll have to see how it goes to determine if I want to pull the pipe or not. The crust is soft and wet and removable with my finger It's probable between .062" - .093" thick so it should come out fine.

[Jack Stotts]

I don't think you would break it taking it out. I've only seen them broken apparantly from vibration over the long haul. Jack

[ZUL8TR]

102

No I haven't replaced the crank seal. I have only replaced the seal at the bottom of the tower and the one on the prop haft in the foot along with the big "O" ring. Do you think I should, or should I just run it awhile and then pull the power head and see if there is more oil?

Is there any harm in running a slow leaker other than an oil pool at the top of the tower as long as it's not running down to the foot?

No harm just a probable slight loss in case pressure if seal not leaking that bad. But while the power head is off good time to replace the lower crank shaft seal, it comes out and goes in easy.

[BillCNC]

Ok, ... I'll order one tomorrow.

What size should I tap the water outlet on the tower for the hose hookup?

Bill

[mercguy]

suggestion....

Ok, ... I got the tower off of the bracket assembly. I tried with a slide hammer, it was a no go. So I started to think, how can I get the most force, ... draw it out!

I took a small section of 1" square tubing an stacked a couple of washers on top of the tubing and tightened the bolt. I added 3 washer at a time and squirted BP into all the seam and holes, ... it came out with very little effort.

Whoo-Hoo!

remove the gearcase and send to Tom Cronk to have blueprinted and a 9/16" prop shaft installed...........

[ZUL8TR]

water passage bolt

Ok, ... I'll order one tomorrow.

What size should I tap the water outlet on the tower for the hose hookup?

Bill

Isn't there a OEM bolt/plug in the mid section for access to the water passage like on the Y80?

[BillCNC]

Yes, but it' a metric thread. I want to tap it to the correct inch thread. Much easier for things to mate up.

Bill

[bill boyes]

contact Tom Johnson. He makes the fitting.

[BillCNC]

Bill,

I already bought one from TJ last summer, but it must have run away. It is a real nice fitting, ... but I really don't want to buy another simply because it also might come up missing. If I can construct something from simple NPT pieces and it grows legs, ... a drive to the hardware store is only a block away.

Bill

[BillCNC]

So nobody tapped their water fitting?

Bill

[ZUL8TR]

fitting

Bill

I leave the metric fitting as is and just use a short piece of rubber hose that fits into the factory hole an inch or so snug and doesn't damage the metric threads. Then I slip a short piece of hose with a matching ID over the first hose OD. I have a brass nozzle that jamb fits into the larger hose ID that has female threads that match the hose male threads. They sell this nozzle in the Home Depot garden section, $3 bucks or so. When operating I place duct tape over the force feed intake holes at the bottom of the lower unit then plug in the rubber unit and open the faucet just enough to get a good stream out the top of block release. Then start the engine.