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OK, I did a little searching, 1970 & 71 there was a 60hp triple with what appears to be a magneto ignition. The closest thing with CD ignition appears to be the '72 65hp triple. Could it bolt on ?? Doubt it without some kind of glitch. It would take a long time to list part #'s of those parts that could possibly work & also probably more trouble than its worth. Getting another used motor w/CDI, or you would otherwise be best to get a junk motor with it, set them side by side & dig in taking pics & notes as you go. You will need the whole wiring harness too. I dont think it worthwhile to do but if you want.. BRP parts catalogue lists motors, part #'s & has exploded views for you to search out clues to compatibility. The previous posts stating fixing it & doing the seal are really the best bet besides getting a newer one.
There's no 60HP in 1974, it's a 70HP in 1974 that had CDI ignition. If you do have a 60HP J&E 3 cylinder that has points (1970-71), it's not a magneto, it's an amplifier system and they absolutely suck. You're stuck with points only that are NLA, but available at Sea-Way Marine for $65 each, #383655, the dist caps are a bargin at, $299.50. No way to convert it to anything except an anchor...
OK, I did a little searching, 1970 & 71 there was a 60hp triple with what appears to be a magneto ignition. The closest thing with CD ignition appears to be the '72 65hp triple. Could it bolt on ?? Doubt it without some kind of glitch. It would take a long time to list part #'s of those parts that could possibly work & also probably more trouble than its worth. Getting another used motor w/CDI, or you would otherwise be best to get a junk motor with it, set them side by side & dig in taking pics & notes as you go. You will need the whole wiring harness too. I dont think it worthwhile to do but if you want.. BRP parts catalogue lists motors, part #'s & has exploded views for you to search out clues to compatibility. The previous posts stating fixing it & doing the seal are really the best bet besides getting a newer one.
PS there could be other problems -unknown causing failure
PS there could be other problems -unknown causing failure
The biggest issues are low voltage, these systems are battery voltage dependent. Corroded wiring is a big problem...any voltage peaks or drops causes the $335.00-464.00 amplifier to blow.
add- point gap is only .010 and they get black and burnt looking easily, they don't have to be clean like a magneto breaker
Last edited by ricochet112; 02-22-2011, 05:54 PM.
Reason: add
Based on my experience there's no way you can convert this without using some sort of aftermarket system. The mag setup stator and trigger won't fit the top of the block - flywheel, crankshaft differ, you'd need a different head to mount the coils et al - Best just set up the motor with a new CDI kit and clean the cap, rotor and points, gap at .008. When it's right this ignition works fine. There's tons of 72 65 up 49.5CID motors around, just go for a later motor.
Hey Rock.... I bin thinking.
If there are other factors which make the engine worth fixing... like it's clean; lower unit is okay; has compression: you just bought a new 1000 CCA battery; it has a tilt system which works; it was running just great before something in the ignition took a dump (you sure it's ignition right?)......... and you just like the POS.... then don't commit suicide sniffing gas, take the frigging thing to a good OMC dealer and let them fix it. Pay the price and fuggetaboudit... go boating. I've fixed enough of those pelicans. Thankfully most of them are dead dead so I don't see them anymore. And forget getting parts out of a junkyard of off a junk motor..... why do you suppose it got junked out in the first place? Huh? Exactly!!
Alex
Hey Rock.... I bin thinking.
If there are other factors which make the engine worth fixing... like it's clean; lower unit is okay; has compression: you just bought a new 1000 CCA battery; it has a tilt system which works; it was running just great before something in the ignition took a dump (you sure it's ignition right?)......... and you just like the POS.... then don't commit suicide sniffing gas, take the frigging thing to a good OMC dealer and let them fix it. Pay the price and fuggetaboudit... go boating. I've fixed enough of those pelicans. Thankfully most of them are dead dead so I don't see them anymore. And forget getting parts out of a junkyard of off a junk motor..... why do you suppose it got junked out in the first place? Huh? Exactly!!
Alex
This was the 2nd big POS part on this motor, besides the worst amplifier (batt mag) ignition system on the market. It was the most complicated lower unit ever built with many parts obsolete. It was the Hydro-Electric shift. An electric shifting switch energized fwd & rev solenoids, which in turn operated (engaged) an oil pump, the oil pump then moved the manual clutch dog into gear. In it's day it was state of the art, by the late 70's it was outdated.
The 3 cylinder OMC was one of OMC's better powerheads, far above Mercs 3 cylinder, rocks particular engine had growing and learning pains on the ignition and lowerunit, but the powerhead paved the way for a great 3 cyl for many years.
With a jet unit this motor will most assuredly break a piston in short order.
Been there seen the movie. The piston problem was finally solved in 1977.
A 70 powerhead will not fit the 60 midsection unless you change the adapter and inner tuner, not even sure you can do that.
If you have a shortshaft 60, use a long (you'll not find a 70 short, none such) just raise the transom to 27 1/2 and get a new driveshaft from Specialty Mfg.
well after all you guys give your opinions,,, here the facts and truth on the 60 hp 3 holer ignition conversion,,,, i have done it still raceing my v-rude with it done,,, just get someone to make a round adapter so as to bolt to the 3 montings points on old block then can put the newer 70hp stater locateing holes in it andbolt down,,,make it only about 3/8th thick or can sand the resin down on the stater,,,, then can run new 70hp v-rude ignition,,, the trigger will fit in with the ring no worries,,,, the key way on older crank different location so timeing marks will be off,,, can change crank out as i did or just remak the timeing marks,,,about ,008thousandths per degree,,,, i run all the 70 hp rude stuff on my older 3 holer,,,
well after all you guys give your opinions,,, here the facts and truth on the 60 hp 3 holer ignition conversion,,,, i have done it still raceing my v-rude with it done,,, just get someone to make a round adapter so as to bolt to the 3 montings points on old block then can put the newer 70hp stater locateing holes in it andbolt down,,,make it only about 3/8th thick or can sand the resin down on the stater,,,, then can run new 70hp v-rude ignition,,, the trigger will fit in with the ring no worries,,,, the key way on older crank different location so timeing marks will be off,,, can change crank out as i did or just remak the timeing marks,,,about ,008thousandths per degree,,,, i run all the 70 hp rude stuff on my older 3 holer,,,
I did it with a 22ci 'rude, dial gauged #1 to TDC & made a -0- marker to fit a nearby bolt. The flywheel was marked for degrees so fairly easy. Hooking up The adapt collar & linkage will be the trick. As long as the shaft taper fits in the words of Baron Von Franken-steen "It Can Be Done" lol
OK update people......The title doesn't match the engine...It's a 71 model 60hp 3cyl and I just want to buy a powerhead and what ever else is needed to get this done. Have cash...will send !
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