Budget d-mod build up

[blueskyracer]

Looks like a process where a person wishes they had more than two hands!

What do folks use to clean the parts when they look like the have been outside in a junk pile for years? I know that good old soap and water is what folks use on the cylunder walls and all but the outside stuff like carbs and block for paint.

[PRO-MOTIONRACING]

Thanks

After years of using every combination of bad words I can think of to install pistons in a 4 cylinder I came upon a method that works quite well. Two small pieces of aluminum secured to a piston by a hose clamp. The picture below will show it better than I can describe it. The metal strips are aluminum so the piston will not get scratched. Tighten the hose clamp just enough to hold the rings down to the piston surface but not so tight that the strips of aluminum and hose clamp won't slide off the piston. Make sure the rings are aligned correctly and push the piston into the bore. You may have to loosen the clamp slightly as you go. Using a hose clamp with a hex on the tightening screw will allow you to get a wrench in to tighten or loosen. Put the screw assembly portion of the hose clamp on the intake side of the piston as there is more room on that side of the block.

Thanks, that looks like it would work great!, can't wait to try it.
But there is one down side... less frustration = less Popsicles to cool off = less stir sticks for epoxy.

[SAWYER]

One thing that makes a difference for me is I chuck up a 3/8" bolt in my drill press and screw the center main up on it and let the rods and pistons hang. Then set the block on the drill table and just crank the table upward a little at the time until finished. that way you can take frustration breaks every now and then. P.S. Make sure the drill press is unplugged.

[dwestby]

SAWYER post makes me laugh what a great idea I have been fighting pistons since the late 60s finally bought the ring compersors or clamps , but I am going to give this a try . building 3 motors now and one is going to the drill press. I will never look at my drill press the same way again great idea. never to old to learn just to old to try some times great thread

[Aussie Steve]

@Sawyer that is a great idea .

[thetrailergod]

I install mt pistond and then roll in the crank and reed cages, just easier for me to do , but make sure you count the bearings, and dont put your crank in upside down, takes longer but ya wont hang a ring

[JBM]

I love the drill press idea. Its like having another pair of hands.. I would leave the reed cages out for more access when loading. They are easy to roll in later. Great thread Dale.

[pro350hydro]

You can also put a piece of driveshaft material in a vise and then "set" the crank on it upright. Only difference is you can't spin it. Built many Konigs that way, which works well since its an opposed motor. The VRP's I just do on the kitchen table if it's way to cold out and I don't feel like cranking on the heat in the shop

[krazy karl]

Ceiling

One thing that makes a difference for me is I chuck up a 3/8" bolt in my drill press and screw the center main up on it and let the rods and pistons hang. Then set the block on the drill table and just crank the table upward a little at the time until finished. that way you can take frustration breaks every now and then. P.S. Make sure the drill press is unplugged.

Great idea. I have a pulley attached to the floor joist over my work bench. I support the crank with a harness with a line thru the pulley to the vice nearby. I lower it as needed. Your method is a lot less Rube Goldberg. You young ones can ask your elders who he was.

kk

[PRO-MOTIONRACING]

Spark

Ignition.
I have seen many different ignitions used on these motors over the years and I have also seen many of them fail. Also when those fancy systems fail it seems that those guys are always scrambling for a magneto so they can make the next heat. I am also a believer that all the ignition needs to do is light the fire on time, I do not believe there is any more power to be made with more spark.
As for the tower clean, inspect, bad bearings will not due. I also cut away the parts that work the stock throttle linkage and safety wire the posts that hold that sprig thing as to disable that. I also replace the tower to block bolts with allen bolts and ny-locks for better serviceability. I also use the stock brass timing linkage, now mounted to that boss already on the block.
I use the Kiekhaefer mags for racing as they are much more common and it allows me to save the Fairbanks Morse mags as collector items. I have been told that others do a lot of different things to get these to spark hotter, I do not, I first clean and inspect to make sure I am starting with a serviceable unit. Then I check that the bearings feel good. I then inspect the points looking to see that the rubbing block is not badly worn. Then I often file the points. When filing the points sandpaper slid through will not due, with time and electricity oxidation forms and this bad metal must be removed. I remove the points, take them apart and get-down on them with a file to cut away the bad metal. I then lube the pivot, give a little tweak to the spring for just a little more tension and reassemble. As for point gap the book calls for a little less gap than I like so I use more like the match book trick, to allow for a little wear on the rubbing block. A little grease on the point cam and the points are good. One other thing I do is change the condenser, Harley Davidsons came with Fairbanks Morse Magnetos (pre 1969) and although they look the same a different condenser is listed for those magneto bikes so that is what I use. After inspection and reassembly of the cap and rotor (blue Loctite on the screws) I do a low and high speed spark check, first spinning it by hand as if starting the motor then using an angle grinder with a hose to spin it up. Anything less that big blue will not due.
Timing, I have seen from 180- 240 before TDC, and the moment before detonation is the moment of optimum performance. But detonation burns pistons. What do I run... Ask me at a race!

[blueskyracer]

Ignition.
I have seen many different ignitions used on these motors over the years and I have also seen many of them fail. Also when those fancy systems fail it seems that those guys are always scrambling for a magneto so they can make the next heat. I am also a believer that all the ignition needs to do is light the fire on time, I do not believe there is any more power to be made with more spark.
As for the tower clean, inspect, bad bearings will not due. I also cut away the parts that work the stock throttle linkage and safety wire the posts that hold that sprig thing as to disable that. I also replace the tower to block bolts with allen bolts and ny-locks for better serviceability. I also use the stock brass timing linkage, now mounted to that boss already on the block.
I use the Kiekhaefer mags for racing as they are much more common and it allows me to save the Fairbanks Morse mags as collector items. I have been told that others do a lot of different things to get these to spark hotter, I do not, I first clean and inspect to make sure I am starting with a serviceable unit. Then I check that the bearings feel good. I then inspect the points looking to see that the rubbing block is not badly worn. Then I often file the points. When filing the points sandpaper slid through will not due, with time and electricity oxidation forms and this bad metal must be removed. I remove the points, take them apart and get-down on them with a file to cut away the bad metal. I then lube the pivot, give a little tweak to the spring for just a little more tension and reassemble. As for point gap the book calls for a little less gap than I like so I use more like the match book trick, to allow for a little wear on the rubbing block. A little grease on the point cam and the points are good. One other thing I do is change the condenser, Harley Davidsons came with Fairbanks Morse Magnetos (pre 1969) and although they look the same a different condenser is listed for those magneto bikes so that is what I use. After inspection and reassembly of the cap and rotor (blue Loctite on the screws) I do a low and high speed spark check, first spinning it by hand as if starting the motor then using an angle grinder with a hose to spin it up. Anything less that big blue will not due.
Timing, I have seen from 180- 240 before TDC, and the moment before detonation is the moment of optimum performance. But detonation burns pistons. What do I run... Ask me at a race!

Can you still get new points? Part number?

[form-e one]

personally i think crazy to run a mag,,, the electronic super spark best,,, hec westby just bought a complete off of e-bay 40$,,,, in my experiance even a good mag wont burn alot of fuel if the motor can pull it threw i never had good luck with mags,,, but do know people that do ie vanover and others,,, super spark way simpler for me..

[PRO-MOTIONRACING]

Pipes

Pipes, This is a budget build up so keeping costs down is important, with luck a used set of Hustlers was found for a couple hundred bucks.
While the installation of the filler block has already been coverd we are not done. After the block was installed and before the pistons were installed the exhaust plate was bolted on and the block and plate were ported together to assure smooth flow. Then the plate was removed and the elbows installed and ported together, it's OK to have ledges or steps coming out just no step downs. I also drill water outlet holes to let the hot water out of the filler area and onto the elbows, on this motor I used two 3/8 holes and two 1/4 holes. I then make a gasket using MR Gasket 77A header material. On the elbows some use gaskets, I do not I use silicone sealer. On the elbows to megaphones I use silicone sealer to avoid vibration wear and I use springs on the bolts to avoid cracking.
While on gaskets and sealing, on the water-jacket (head) I just use Silicone sealer. On the intake covers and carburetor bases I cut my own gaskets from cereal boxes, in my younger days I used Lucky Charms these days I use Raisin Bran. But that's a whole other thread on a different forum.

[blueskyracer]

Looks loud for sure!

[pro350hydro]

Looks loud for sure!

Just don't say it's too loud, you know what that would make you right?