Budget d-mod build up

[Larry M]

Ignition.
I have seen many different ignitions used on these motors over the years and I have also seen many of them fail. Also when those fancy systems fail it seems that those guys are always scrambling for a magneto so they can make the next heat. I am also a believer that all the ignition needs to do is light the fire on time, I do not believe there is any more power to be made with more spark.
As for the tower clean, inspect, bad bearings will not due. I also cut away the parts that work the stock throttle linkage and safety wire the posts that hold that sprig thing as to disable that. I also replace the tower to block bolts with allen bolts and ny-locks for better serviceability. I also use the stock brass timing linkage, now mounted to that boss already on the block.
I use the Kiekhaefer mags for racing as they are much more common and it allows me to save the Fairbanks Morse mags as collector items. I have been told that others do a lot of different things to get these to spark hotter, I do not, I first clean and inspect to make sure I am starting with a serviceable unit. Then I check that the bearings feel good. I then inspect the points looking to see that the rubbing block is not badly worn. Then I often file the points. When filing the points sandpaper slid through will not due, with time and electricity oxidation forms and this bad metal must be removed. I remove the points, take them apart and get-down on them with a file to cut away the bad metal. I then lube the pivot, give a little tweak to the spring for just a little more tension and reassemble. As for point gap the book calls for a little less gap than I like so I use more like the match book trick, to allow for a little wear on the rubbing block. A little grease on the point cam and the points are good. One other thing I do is change the condenser, Harley Davidsons came with Fairbanks Morse Magnetos (pre 1969) and although they look the same a different condenser is listed for those magneto bikes so that is what I use. After inspection and reassembly of the cap and rotor (blue Loctite on the screws) I do a low and high speed spark check, first spinning it by hand as if starting the motor then using an angle grinder with a hose to spin it up. Anything less that big blue will not due.
Timing, I have seen from 180- 240 before TDC, and the moment before detonation is the moment of optimum performance. But detonation burns pistons. What do I run... Ask me at a race!

Here is a little tip that I got from Harry O'brien years ago. On the mag cap (with the 4 screws) cut the rotor shaft hole out big enough so you don't need to pull the rotor every time you want to take the cap off. And you can also leave the cap with the plug wires on also. I chuck it up in a lathe to cut the hole bigger but you could do it a lot of ways.

Larry Mac

[blueskyracer]

Just don't say it's too loud, you know what that would make you right?

A tree hugger

[PRO-MOTIONRACING]

Done

Well, the little 40 is all grown up, so we had a family reunion of sorts; the old 40 was there with stories of long ago battles. The current champion was on hand eagerly anticipating a go at the 3/4 record. The replacement, looking strong and fresh, awaits his chance to be number one. A long lost cousin recently showed up; no blood relation but part of the family now. Even the 30 was there wishing that someday he will get his chance to show he has what it takes.
And then...the new motor arrived. He couldn't help but feel he was a little different, that somehow the universe must have another plan for him. So he scoured the internet looking for the boat he belongs on. And one fine day, he found it. It was not too small and not too big; it was even the right color, so the little 40 set out to fulfill his destiny, powering a brand new boat, in Thompson Falls Montana.

[PRO-MOTIONRACING]

Editorial

Thanks to all that have followed along with the budget D-mod build up.
I have tried to avoid responding to others' opinions and just post what I do.
But now it is time to post my own opinions and responses and just as in the motor build posts I will just do what I do.

Is it fast? I run the Yamato C-stock gearcase and a Pinner prop marked RBH (I have two props but have never tried the other one). I run this on a Karelsen D hydro driving on my knees. With this combination, I have won many times including multiple APBA Divisional championships, AOF nationals, and at the 2010 APBA nationals I was able to finish in 3rd place. Although my nationals experience was, from what have been told, typical, as I was disqualified. Apparently having the wrong color number backgrounds is cheating.

Tohatsu in, D-mod, Most of the data and real world testing is the region 10 Tohatsus, Mercury 44XS and me. I will say that the match up between the 44XS and the Tohatsu is as good as anyone could ever hope for. Will the Tohatsu eventually become dominant in stock?, I think so, in rough water or from behind that torque works, in clean water out front the 4cyl top end can be hard to catch. With a 44 built just like this 40 I can and have passed all of the regions top stockers, at times going three wide in the corners. So, the issue of the Tohatsu in mod should not be about performance but about politics.

While I feel there is never going to be a shortage of old Mercs and that the D-mod class is just fine the way is is, it would be nice to offer the Tohatsu guys a chance to play. I also feel that some of the resistance is in fear of what would happen once the Tohatsu is modified. Unfortunately, under our current system, once allowed in, if all the stockers got together and voted (motorheads don't vote) to allow modifications to the Tohatsu (4 blades, porting, etc), this would upset and potentially ruin one of the historically great classes in Outboard racing. If there was any way to put in place a ruling that would only allow the Tohatsu to be run as per the stock rules forever, I would support that effort.

Lastly, we need a points-graduated beginner C-stock class if we are to ever slow our lack of retention.

So, thanks for reading. Now just kick back, close your eyes and imagine the sound of a sweet D-mod screaming by......
OK, now get up and get to work; it's almost time to go racing.

[blueskyracer]

Dale it looks really nice and it was a great idea to do a boat and motor build to get folks reved up for the new season and help new members see that it can be done. I hope to have the boat turned over by next weekend.

Hopefully this new bad boy on the block will wake up the establishment at SLORA StateLine Outboard Racing Association. Sounds like the class maybe up to 6 boats this year. And then we maybe able to work in a SOA race or two.

I guess I need to finish my part. It will look good on the new Machine Components Tower on its way.

[Aussie Steve]

Hope I see boat and motor on the water some time , great work Dale ...you got me wanting one

[pav225]

Awesome Job!

Awesome Job!!!!

Probably one of the coolests posts ever on HR!!!

- Mike

[blueskyracer]

In the short time we have been working on this project I would like to add that I decided a good back up motor would be a good idea. So I have located a twin to the 40 and also a big brother 44. The 40 will need some parts and I am working on a wish list but these motors are still out there. I guess we will see how hard it is to get parts.

Right now I have to get back to work on the boat. Takes a lot of time going back and forth on two big projects plus mailing T shirts and decals.

[propnuts]

Fantastic job and comments Dale

One of the things I love about Dale's rigs, and the reason I talked him into dragging his gear down to Cali last summer, is that he has the most reliable D Mod stuff I have ever seen. You know the bit about in order to finish first...

Also Dale you can rest assured that SOA will be running some form of a local Novice C class this summer. The enthusiasm is coming not only from the potential participants, but pretty much everyone else too (no thread jack intended).

See you and all the other April Fools at Henley's.

BTW what was the total cost of the build?

[blueskyracer]

I think that motor will look good on the big brother to this boat with almost the same paint job!! Blue and Yellow look fast..........

[Dave M]

Great job

This should prove to anyone who doubts it, that you can build up a nice running 40CI or 44CI on a budget, and be in the ballpark. If you have an old bayer tower housing, or a real Parker pipe tower from years ago, this build is cheap.

Now, I hope you can keep the thread going all summer, with updates as you get the new boat, maybe some pics of breaking the engine in, setting it up, and racing it, etc.

Anyone want to race ?

[blueskyracer]

This should prove to anyone who doubts it, that you can build up a nice running 40CI or 44CI on a budget, and be in the ballpark. If you have an old bayer tower housing, or a real Parker pipe tower from years ago, this build is cheap.

Now, I hope you can keep the thread going all summer, with updates as you get the new boat, maybe some pics of breaking the engine in, setting it up, and racing it, etc.

Anyone want to race ?

I am eagar to get started racing but I am not even ready. I must say I have watched Dales stuff and it is fast but also reliable. You have to finish to win! I am really looking forward to this season. It will be different and much faster

I will post progress as we go once everything comes together. I want to let folks considering this class to have as much info as possible. The way I look at it is if they are all as good as the next guy that makes for better racing instead of a parade.

The new boat should be interesting since it has a lot of changes to it. Most are dictated by the fact it is a laydown.

[PRO-MOTIONRACING]

follow up

One of the things I love about Dale's rigs, and the reason I talked him into dragging his gear down to Cali last summer, is that he has the most reliable D Mod stuff I have ever seen. You know the bit about in order to finish first...

Also Dale you can rest assured that SOA will be running some form of a local Novice C class this summer. The enthusiasm is coming not only from the potential participants, but pretty much everyone else too (no thread jack intended).

See you and all the other April Fools at Henley's.

BTW what was the total cost of the build?

I will be posting some follow up with a nose-cone install and a used tower or two. It looks like I should be able to finish two different versions for about 1500.00 complete. When combined with a used boat I hope to find 80mph+ for about 2600.00 complete.

[STEVE FRENCH]

Brinkman manual........first "TOOL" ta buy!!!!

http://www.boatracingfacts.com/forum...?t=3322&page=5

Shrink screen/page to 50% to read the post frum da Brinkman manual.

Thought this worth post'n here.

I know Dave Scott has done alot of "test'n" with rod clearances/"wobble"........care ta chime in........Dave?

PS.... a few years back, one of my KG-4 (bottom end)/20H(top end)....Quincy stack, A-MOD motors started to run and rev and "pull" on the straightaways at Ford City (2002?) like a rape'd banshee......last race of da season.....tore down to fresh'n and found rods sooooo loose it was amaze'n it held together......probably one more lap would of finish'd it off....Wound up grab'n another "Junk yard" KG-4/7/Mark-20 fish'n powerhead fer another lower end.....to put da 20H cyl/pistons on......
Point?...........Not sure, but just seem'd to impress me how well that one li'l Merc motor "Turn'd-up" with loose ("hand-granade" loose) rods.............anyone else?

100N/Steve French.............

[blueskyracer]

I would like to say I just took delivery of the last Brinkman "How to modify your Merc" so hopefully the new edition will be out soon.