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Steering...direct or indirect ?

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  • Steering...direct or indirect ?

    I am soon to be rigging my new B&H csh and have an old Keller 188 steering hub with a small 3" dia cast cable drum.If I use this system and connect the steering cables directly to the steering bar will the ratio be close to a much larger drum with indirect steering through the steering bar and to the tie backs ? The indirect cable routing seems to be the most popular method.Is the "steering effort" much lighter with the lower ratio ie; large cable drum and tie back's? Thank's for the advice.............36cw

  • #2
    Originally posted by glen wesanko View Post
    I am soon to be rigging my new B&H csh and have an old Keller 188 steering hub with a small 3" dia cast cable drum.If I use this system and connect the steering cables directly to the steering bar will the ratio be close to a much larger drum with indirect steering through the steering bar and to the tie backs ? The indirect cable routing seems to be the most popular method.Is the "steering effort" much lighter with the lower ratio ie; large cable drum and tie back's? Thank's for the advice.............36cw
    hey Glenn, seen you on Saturday hauling your new B&H north!!!!! I think you will be happier with the Keller or Tietze 5" drum assy and run indirect steering...........

    Wartinger prefers direct himself though and that is what I set his new Davids B&H up with last month..........


    bag the old style Keller..............
    Daren

    ​DSH/750ccmh/850ccmh

    Team Darneille


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    • #3
      Depends on the class

      For 2 cylinder classes you can do alright with direct steering and the 3" hub. Torque steer is not much of a problem in the smaller classes. With 4 cyl. classes the motor can spin the wheel right out of your hand even with indirect when you punch it out of the corner. This is why I use the 5" hub on my D boats so I never have to turn the wheel more than a half turn in even the tightest corners.

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      • #4
        Go big hub and indirect.

        I swore I would drive direct forever on my C.

        John Runne secretly rigged it up one of my my new boats indirect for me before I picked it up. Before he even took me into the shop to see the new boat, he was already saying "just try it". As usual, he was right.

        I was doubtful, but I trust Farmer. Now I wont drive it any other way. Its not just the counter-torque effect of indirect steering (which is nice) but its also pinpoint control. Especially needed when you go into the first turn with 4 other boats all trying for 2 lanes.

        Good luck

        BW
        302SSH.....Putting the Stock back in Stock Outboard

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        • #5
          Direct or indirect

          Brad u r spending way 2 much time on the internet, Molly is going to kick ur a** when I tell her how much time u spend on hydroracer!!!

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          • #6
            Thank's guy's, you confirmed my intentions of going to indirect steering.This boat seems really light, how best to distribute and package lead to make weight ? Should it all go near the transom or spread it around,say from the driver's pos'n back? I found putting lead shot in a motorcycle inner tube work's well and will conform somewhat to irregular point's of stowage.Any ideas ? I remember JM Kelly being slightly injured by flying ballast last year ?

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            • #7
              HA HA Bob, your right!

              Weight distribution is a kinda tricky thing. But important.

              Dont put it all in one place. I would not put more than 5 lbs in any one spot as its kinda tough on the boat over the long term.

              Placement wise, it really depends on the boat. If you like the way the boat runs and handles without lead find the center of gravity with you in the boat and for every lb you put 2 feet behind the center of gravity, put a lb 2 ft in front of the CG.

              If it seems a bit light in the nose, put more toward the front. If it runs a bit flat, try it on the back of the transom.

              test test test

              cheers
              BW
              302SSH.....Putting the Stock back in Stock Outboard

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              • #8
                Glen

                Brad has given good advise on weight placement. Post some pictures of you're new ride, or are you waiting until you get some paint on it?
                Sean Byrne



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                • #9
                  Pictures to follow

                  Just blocking down epoxy and will get some clear coat and trim on eventually.I'll post some pics once I get some finish on it.Look's real good so far,my thank's to Drew Thompson for a fine job putting this boat together.

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                  • #10
                    Steering, Control, & Weight Considerations

                    Hey Glen,

                    I am like Wart, I still prefer direct steering on CSH/OSY or C-Mod setups -- instant response in tight situations. My Italian Mostes has very tight direct steering and my Karelsen Pro boat has indirect steering. Remember, you can also adjust the steering wheel nut, your tiedown rope (especially after it gets wet), and the lock nut above the mounting yoke on all Yamato motors (with the factory motor mount) to tighten your steering; making any of those adjustments tighter will avoid spin-outs or unwanted wheel adjustments in cornering or rough water.

                    Try placing a 5 lb weight mounted on the the left nose area combing side, usually behind the dash. Try to mount it securely and even with, or close to, the rear of the left sponson (Wart and I normally use a 5 lb diving weight with a stainless steel bolt through one slot and lots of washers with two locking nuts.) Make sure the left side weight does not pound on the inside of the hull's bottom (you can put a thin piece of foam underneath the weight in case it comes loose in flight.) Also, I have used weight plates wrapped in duct tape ('cause lead is poisonous) and duct-tapped them under my kneeling pad (adding a little protection between me and the flat weights.) You can move the floor plates backward for a lift-enhancing CG and forward to defeat lift. There is so much vibration on the transom, I would make darn sure the bolt fastener nuts are tight if you hang weights on the tiedown eyebolts (we usually use longer tiedown eyebolt studs with double locking nuts in order to have the option to mount weights on inside of the transom.) Hope all this information helps.

                    Best Regards,
                    Al

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                    • #11
                      Back a long time ago when the Pro Division had weight requirements I had a hydro that I raced with A, B, and C Konigs. I had three different floorboards that all weighed different that I would switch along with the motors. The boat handled the same no matter which motor I had on it.

                      I never have run anything but indirect steering no matter how fast or slow the boat goes.



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