Lots of questions

[blueskyracer]

Hi, I am just getting started again. I have been in some type of boat racing since 1967. I build a BSH Wetback in the 1960's with my dad and then did some time with a 280 limited crew and then RC hydros. I have a lot of wood working experience and know that good jigs and patience makes good boats.

I am planning on getting a Sorenson CSH kit at the end of this month. I picked CSH for the price of the engine vs DSH and it appears to be a more popular class. Also, with a restricter plate you can also compete in 20SSH I believe. More bang for the buck

My questions are:
1) What do you folks use to achieve the great finishes on the decks. Varnish, Epoxy and if colors are involved do you use auto paint. What steps do you use. They all look great.
2) I live in a place called Thompson Falls Montana. I grew up in Seattle. I believe this is still Region 10. Does any member live close to me. Like Spokane or Missoula.
3) Has Region 10 come out with a 2008 schedule
4) Is it true that if you buy a new Yamato 302 for about $2,200 that you still have to get a 9/16 output shaft installed for US props
5) Is there any limit to the age of a driver? You are only as old as you feel and some days are better than others. Right?

I am sure as I go along I will have more questions but thanks for any help

Mike

[ZUL8TR]

RE: questions

Mike

Answers to some of your Q's

First I am a racer from the 70's where I competed in 25ssh and 20ssh with a Y80 Yamato. The hull was my home built in 1970 Wetback from plans I got from Hal Kelly at a race in south Florida in 1958. It went thru some tweeks on the bottom, deck and transom during the years. Did real well (1974 region 5 high points in 25ssh) and it was a fast safe hull. I am presently planning to compete in 20ssh with the same Y80 I bought back in 1978. I have done a lot of wood projects and very familiar with the finishes.

CSH is a good choice for racing.

1) great finishes are obtained by several methods and require work. They all start with sealing the wood in epoxy and sand level. Usually 3 coats does it. Brands used vary from the west system, MAS, etc. I prefer the 1:1 stuff as it is pleanty strong and mixing is a whole lot easier without the messy calibrated plungers. Just use graduated throw a way clear cups.

Epoxy needs an ultra violet protector coat such as marine varnish, auto clearcoats or 2 part poly's. The least cost is varnish and if the right brand is selected the finish can be beautiful like a violin. I use the varnish approach with Pettit Captains 1015 and the Pettit 120/T10 brushing thinner. Dust control is important to keep nasty debris out of the finish especially the last coat. After the final coat (at least 3 over the epoxy recommend 5) dries about 3-4 days I wet sand with 1000 then 1500 then 2000 and let finish air dry several weeks then polish out with really fine white auto clear coat rubbing compound. If you go the auto clears or 2 part poly's you need spray equip and safety good respirator breathing gear or the stuff will kill you. Some builders do the epoxy coat sand well and have an auto paint shop spray the hull inside, top and bottom. Your choice but be warned the varnish and rub is more work but the finish is piano like when done. I use good bristle brush for varnish build coats and foam brush for final varnish coat. I use the noted thinner even at the final coat to get good flow out for the ambient temp and humidity.


For color you can use auto paints over the auto clears and spray the final clear over the color. If doing the varnish I do the color over the last coat of varnish and buff it out. I do not put varnish over the colors due to the amber color of the marine varnish that changes the color hue and with age the varnish will yellow some and effect the original color look. I use spray can colors compatable with the cured varnish (no lacquer) , test to be sure.

4) I believe the Yamatos shipped from japan require the 9/16 shaft replacement. It might be cost effective to get and engine that already has been made race ready that would include other items besides the shaft.

5) I believe there is no upper age limit. I have seen late 70 year olds racing in region 5.

Test the rig, get the right prop, balance the hull to get the lift and angle of attack right and Go 4 it.

Pete

Hi, I am just getting started again. I have been in some type of boat racing since 1967. I build a BSH Wetback in the 1960's with my dad and then did some time with a 280 limited crew and then RC hydros. I have a lot of wood working experience and know that good jigs and patience makes good boats.

I am planning on getting a Sorenson CSH kit at the end of this month. I picked CSH for the price of the engine vs DSH and it appears to be a more popular class. Also, with a restricter plate you can also compete in 20SSH I believe. More bang for the buck

My questions are:
1) What do you folks use to achieve the great finishes on the decks. Varnish, Epoxy and if colors are involved do you use auto paint. What steps do you use. They all look great.
2) I live in a place called Thompson Falls Montana. I grew up in Seattle. I believe this is still Region 10. Does any member live close to me. Like Spokane or Missoula.
3) Has Region 10 come out with a 2008 schedule
4) Is it true that if you buy a new Yamato 302 for about $2,200 that you still have to get a 9/16 output shaft installed for US props
5) Is there any limit to the age of a driver? You are only as old as you feel and some days are better than others. Right?

I am sure as I go along I will have more questions but thanks for any help

Mike

[bill boyes]

I use System 3 epoxy as a base. they are based in Seattle. Varnish works well as does most automotive finishes.
You DO NOT need to change the prop shaft. Many do because there is a better selection props out there. I do recommend that you have the gear case shaped as the boat handling improves greatly.

[Skoontz]

Every painter will give you a varied mix of their best results, so, here is what i did. The boat came with epoxy, very rough. So, we wet sanded it smooth, then double checked we had not sanded through any epoxy. We did in fact hit a couple small areas, so, I recoated, let dry, then sanded again. On the bottom we decided it to be left as wood, and I chose House of Kolor clear. Blew 3 coats over the bottom, sanded with 800, then 1600, then 2000 and rubbed with liquid ebony. Taped the bottom rolled it over. House of Kolor loves selling their products, which are more expensive than others, so we chose Dupont epoxy primer in a very light grey color. The light grey color was chosen because the base coat for HOK paints is white, and this way we could see any sand through if we had it. Then, it was Neon yellow, Rosea, and Apple green. Each color had to be coated once with clear, because you cannot tape over the neons without causing distortion and some peel. After the entire boat was done, I roughed the clear with 600 wet paper, then blew three coats of clear over the whole thing. The process of 800/1600, and 200 wet paper was used all over, and rubbed in the final with liquid ebony. I did not like my daughters choice of flaming, and we are going to redo that before Bakersfield.

[blueskyracer]

Thanks for the quick replys. Does anyone live close to the west side of Montana. I saw last year there were two races in Moses Lake. Any one live in Spokane or Idaho panhandle or western Montana.

I have more questions about how you all start these motors and how to set up the boat and drive it such as moving body weight. Also, how much are props and how do you pick one without have to buy a lot of them when you are just starting. I guess whatever people can think of when they started, that they wished they had done differently, would be helpful.

Thanks again

[mercguy]

Thanks for the quick replys. Does anyone live close to the west side of Montana. I saw last year there were two races in Moses Lake. Any one live in Spokane or Idaho panhandle or western Montana.

I have more questions about how you all start these motors and how to set up the boat and drive it such as moving body weight. Also, how much are props and how do you pick one without have to buy a lot of them when you are just starting. I guess whatever people can think of when they started, that they wished they had done differently, would be helpful.

Thanks again

Reg10 (APBA SOA (Seattle Outboard Association) holds a couple races each year at Moses Lake, along with a half dozen more on the west side. Another group of racers (AOF/Stateline) holds their own races on the eastern side of Washington, along with Idaho. Both clubs are great to start and race with. Let me know if I can be of any help. I am locate on the west side.

I also wrote an article a couple years ago on boat finishing/refinishing and do about 5-6 boats a year. Again, feel free to contact me with any questions you have, whether it is boat finishing and motor questions.

Daren Goehring
mercguy@verizon.net

here is a link to the boat finishing article:

http://www.freewebs.com/swampcridder...ishingtips.htm

[ryan_4z]

2) I live in a place called Thompson Falls Montana.

Is that anywhere near Bonner, Montana? I believe that's where we passed the Testicle Festival.

[pops67g]

Don't forget - it's a race boat, not furniture

Don't get me wrong, I like a pretty boat as much as the next guy. There are some good directions here for producing a really slick finish, though with a ton of work and a hefty price tag. You should not lose sight of the fact that the prettier you make it, the worse you will feel if it gets damaged. On one occasion I spent a couple of months redecking and refinishing a DSH and then totally destroyed it at the first race. Now I paint them one color and trim them with some vinyl graphics and call it good.

[Skoontz]

Turkey Testicle Festival

Every year, Woodstock Illinois around turkey day....Quite the place.

[blueskyracer]

Bonner and the testicle festival is a lot more east than where I live. I am only 20 miles from the Idaho border.

[blueskyracer]

Pops 67 is right. Simple paint jobs are a good idea. When I did the R/C unlimiteds we used auto paint but they had to be like the real unlimiteds and repairs were a bi#@h. But I do want a smooth finish.

[jsilvestri]

When painting all of my boats, I wanted a nice paint job but easy to match in case I was in an accident and had to make repairs. I use Epoxease brand paint and apply it with a foam roller and foam brush. Epoxy is used as the hardner and because of this the paint naturally lays itself out as it dries, plus the stuff is really tough. It comes in all kinds of colors and it only takes two coats to cover the boat. I purchase the paint from West Marine on-line. Do a search for West Marine and check it out.

[jsilvestri]

Ive found the -all paints- grade foam rollers to lay it on nice. Since epoxy tends to set faster in bulk it needs to be done fairly quick.

You are correct about the paint setting up quickly. I would roll a small portion of the boat and then go back and smooth it with the foam brush and then move onto another section. You certainly would not want to roll the whole boat and then go back to smooth it out.

[blueskyracer]

Any recomendations for a good prop to start with?

Thanks for all of the suggestions so far.

Mike

[Jack Stotts]

Hey Joe Silvestri, I've looked on West Marine's web site and could not find Epoxease Paint. Even did a word search with no luck. Would appreciate any word you may have on the subject.. Jack