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Starters are great, and yes your pit crew will love you for the purchase.
It will spin your 4 banger over no problem. And Yes, those Larry Mac plates are the ticket as it spins the rope plate just as a rope would, and does not hammer on the nut everytime, but rather spins the crank with the load on the keyway. Btw, nice job on the plates Larry!
I broke the top off a VRP crank with my starter and I am convinced it was due to the starter because of the way it broke. But the VRP 350 is a completely different animal that your 4 banger which fires every 90 degrees of crankshaft rotation and has much less compression. The VRP 350 fires once every 360 degrees and has much, much more compression. After the compression stroke, the motor spins freely as the piston travels down and starts to head back up, then it hits again which is also why they are hard on lower unit gears, etc. This hammering (impact) effect plays havoc on the ropeplate nut and it would keep trying to tighten the nut. If someone calls bull**** on this, then mark your nut on the ropeplate (on a 2 banger, not a 4 banger) and then use the starter and see if it moves. Eventually you'll see movement.
My VRP is the only crankshaft that I have seen break, but I have heard of others. The Konig and Konny's we used my starter on have never had a problem, but then again the top of the crankshaft has more meat, AND they are also 4 cylinders which fire every 180 degrees of rotation and have less of the "impact" effect than the 2 cylinder motors do.
Jim Mckean also has the right idea, and I have used his design a couple of times when helping others. I myself prefer the socket style as it is easier and more foregiving to get off the motor easily/safetly after the motor starts. I have seen a few close calls by others as they almost lost control of the starter after the motor fired. The socket helps keep the starter true to the crankshaft, whereas the two pin design allows it to wobble side to side if your not holding it true and thats when things get sketchy.
It will spin your 4 banger over no problem. And Yes, those Larry Mac plates are the ticket as it spins the rope plate just as a rope would, and does not hammer on the nut everytime, but rather spins the crank with the load on the keyway. Btw, nice job on the plates Larry!
I broke the top off a VRP crank with my starter and I am convinced it was due to the starter because of the way it broke. But the VRP 350 is a completely different animal that your 4 banger which fires every 90 degrees of crankshaft rotation and has much less compression. The VRP 350 fires once every 360 degrees and has much, much more compression. After the compression stroke, the motor spins freely as the piston travels down and starts to head back up, then it hits again which is also why they are hard on lower unit gears, etc. This hammering (impact) effect plays havoc on the ropeplate nut and it would keep trying to tighten the nut. If someone calls bull**** on this, then mark your nut on the ropeplate (on a 2 banger, not a 4 banger) and then use the starter and see if it moves. Eventually you'll see movement.
My VRP is the only crankshaft that I have seen break, but I have heard of others. The Konig and Konny's we used my starter on have never had a problem, but then again the top of the crankshaft has more meat, AND they are also 4 cylinders which fire every 180 degrees of rotation and have less of the "impact" effect than the 2 cylinder motors do.
Jim Mckean also has the right idea, and I have used his design a couple of times when helping others. I myself prefer the socket style as it is easier and more foregiving to get off the motor easily/safetly after the motor starts. I have seen a few close calls by others as they almost lost control of the starter after the motor fired. The socket helps keep the starter true to the crankshaft, whereas the two pin design allows it to wobble side to side if your not holding it true and thats when things get sketchy.
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