Digital Start Clocks

[raceright]

From this spectators point of view, Le Mans Starts are boring, I would much rather watch a flying start against a clock.
From a judging standpoint, they are still boring. Yea with the flying start, we have gun jumpers, it happens, some guys do it intentionally for smooth water, some need to work on their skill level. Right now our camera system probably saves a driver most of the time. What we see as over, the camera says no, its ok. As we move towards more accuracy in clock timing and pictures, we will see the camera agreeing with our eyes more. There will still be boats hiding in the spray that can't be read, there will still be heats that have to be re run because the judges can't get all the numbers, that is why the rulebook tells us what to do in that situation. But with all its faults, I still prefer the flying start.

Bev & Kristi
Oh I believe we will stay with clock starts for quite some time so improving them is a great idea(probably won"t help me unless Bev closes her eyes at 5 seconds) this is what Robbie wants, most open boat drivers want ,and capsule guys do not care either way so but a light clock already. Just make it bright.

Pat

[raceright]

Bev & Kristi
Oh I believe we will stay with clock starts for quite some time so improving them is a great idea(probably won"t help me unless Bev closes her eyes at 5 seconds) this is what Robbie wants, most open boat drivers want ,and capsule guys do not care either way so but a light clock already. Just make it bright.

Pat

Buy HATE TO TYPE

[ian]

OK, alleviate boring starts by making drivers stand back on the beach, kevlar off, then start. Get dressed, sprint for the water, True LeMans....hehe....

OK, NOW I'm going to Millville.

[Kristi Ellison]

Ian

Best idea yet......who can dress the fastest.....my bets on Brandon Thirlby...he does it every race!
NOW GO to Millville...your late!

[Janet]

Digital clocks

Couple of points about our digital clock - not from a racer's point of view but from a worker's point of view

The digital clock CVRA has been using for many years takes up a lot of space in our equipment trailer - 3 big boxes (1 for each digit) which we pack standing upright to protect the bulbs, a metal frame that is over 8 feet long (which was the deciding factor in our recent purchase of a new 5 x 10 trailer rather than a 5 x 8 - we didn't want to have to tie any equipment to the roof of the trailer, we wanted all equipment contained inside and protected from the weather over the winter), and another box that is padded to protect the clock "brain" when traveling. Sweep hand clocks can take up a large amount of space too though unless you have one that is somehow collapsible.

Positioning of the clock can be tricky sometimes depending on layout at race site - we've had trouble getting it angled out toward the race course sometimes if we are forced to use a narrow dock, and the clock must be tied down tight or it could end up in the drink (speaking from personal experience - a pleasure boat docked at Denton, MD and caused such a big wake, it rocked the floating dock so much the clock fell over and ended up in the river but we were lucky enough to retrieve the boxes before they sank, unscrew all the bulbs and get it dried out).

Digital clocks will slow down your schedule somewhat, you have to wait for it to count down all 3 minutes - you lose the ability to throw the white flag once all boats on out on the race course - I am more of a fan of sweep hand clocks in this respect, you save time being able to go to white faster and cut down on milling time/potential milling mishaps. But the amount of time you lose shouldn't be too much of a factor with the amount of heats USTS runs each day, it's more of a factor for clubs trying to get in a lot more heats in a day.

Hope you and your family are doing well, we missed you at Wilson.

Janet

[Kristi Ellison]

Janet

Thanks for the info it is very helpful and just what I was looking for. As we work on finding a possible system I want to know all the por's and con's from those who have worked with digital clocks. I will try and cehck out the system in Jesup this weekend.

We are all good and I cannot remember why we did not make it to Wilson as I had planned on being there. Maybe we will make it next spring, one more time before I head to Tejas!!!

Kristi

[Cameraboy]

Janet, good points, especially on the size issue. Ours will cause us trailer weight issues.

In terms of cutting time on the clock, we have ours programmed to go immediately to one minute with the push of a button, and we can also reset to zero quickly if we need to black flag and do a re-start. This was a requirement we gave the manufacturer.

On another note, our manufacturer tells us we need a red lens over our LEDs.

[John Howe]

Kristi, check your e-mail. I just sent you the e-mail addy for John Ronchetti. John has built several digital clocks for inboard racing.

[reed28n]

two digits

I don't see a need for 3 digits if you have a digital clock. Have double zero blink a couple times then count from 00....59....to 0

Lighter , less room and the ability to start with or with out a 3 or 5 minute gun

an what about mounting it in the side of your equipment trailer.... unload and then park the trailer near the judges stand...

I don't care how we start as long as we all have to start the same way.... so if we are going to dress on the way to the beach before the start I request boxers....

SORA is interested i the Friend of Fralick Clock

[Ron Hill]

Clock Starts

I once raced like 18 heats at DePue (at one Natioanls) and NEVER jumped the gun... I raced ARR that went 70, maybe, and D Racing Hydro that went 90...I could just watch the hand move and make my move.. SCSC had a digital clock and I jumped it like 8 time out of 8...

As OPC Chairman, I changed Kankakee starts to LeMans as that was "HOT" then (1999)...

Charles Revson of Revlon Cosmetics always said he didn't sell lipstick, he sold HOPE..Hope that the women viewing his ads in the magazine would be as beautiful as the woman in the magazine...

Watching both my sons run 45...We run 45 SS with clock starts and SST 45 with Lemans, I've taken an particular interest in the starts....

Seems to me, Lemans, tend to have the fastest guy is on the pole and like Formula One cars, he starts first and ends first....

Clock starts, digitals or sweeping hands, there is always the CHANCE of getting a great start and no one catching you...Or there is the chance of somesone jumping the gun and because you used your HEAD (AKA BRAIN) you win. The fastest boat doesn't always have to win!!!! (Unless you have the fastest boat)....

All races need "HOPE" and I feel good with one of my boys scores points on a clock start....as our series are tough to score points on....AND we are racing for FUN....

[Andrew 4CE]

I'll be touching base with our clock guy this or next weekend (He'll be at the Toronto Hobby Show for anyone local who would like to meet him), then we have a TORC meeting on Nov 10th. I'll relay where we our ideas are heading at that point for anyone interested. The "Clock Guy", as he is known through out north america in model racing, is already commited to updating his designs to LED clocks for model races... it's simply a matter of making bigger digits for our type of racing. They use cameras, speed trap sensors, automated audio time and speed callouts and stuff... been in use for 10 years.

[Andrew 4CE]

To update people...

These are the light we tested out on the weekend, red model
http://www.interwesternsales.com/pro...1=8566&l2=8635

They worked great in the sunlight, they made a 36" digit when assembled. but off axis they sucked. Standing at more than 20 degrees off and you could barely see it. I tried sanding one of the lenses to make it diffuse the light more and it helped, but not near enough. The actualy led light inside this unit are very small. If you had a race sight with a long shoot close to shore, this might be great... but other than that and this particular light was no good. One thing that might help is sanding the side of the lens too... I just thought of that. Or taking the lens apart and making it less translucent somehow and give more of a glowing effect?

If anyone is interested in trying things with these lights, the guy we had lined up to buy them from would do them for $10.50 each in quantity to do a two sided clock... $11.50 for qty to do a once sided clock.

Anyone out there with any success at the lighting side of things, let me know.

We are still going to move along with the brains of the box, figuring it will work with pretty much any LED light source.

[ricochet112]

To update people...

These are the light we tested out on the weekend, red model
http://www.interwesternsales.com/pro...1=8566&l2=8635

They worked great in the sunlight, they made a 36" digit when assembled. but off axis they sucked. Standing at more than 20 degrees off and you could barely see it. I tried sanding one of the lenses to make it diffuse the light more and it helped, but not near enough. The actualy led light inside this unit are very small. If you had a race sight with a long shoot close to shore, this might be great... but other than that and this particular light was no good. One thing that might help is sanding the side of the lens too... I just thought of that. Or taking the lens apart and making it less translucent somehow and give more of a glowing effect?

If anyone is interested in trying things with these lights, the guy we had lined up to buy them from would do them for $10.50 each in quantity to do a two sided clock... $11.50 for qty to do a once sided clock.

Anyone out there with any success at the lighting side of things, let me know.

We are still going to move along with the brains of the box, figuring it will work with pretty much any LED light source.

This is the same problem we've (CORA region 10) had with our clock. When I first had the idea of a digital clock, it was to use trailer lights, or any type of complete sealed square unit with colored lenses.
I feel that any type of LED's on a circuit board will be a challenge.

[Andrew 4CE]

I don't think there is any challange to find lights that will work... the challenge is finding cheap ones. haha.

I think it was $1800 (or maybe $2400, can't remember) we can walk in off the street and the local shop that makes signs for highschool football stadiums and hockey rinks will make a sign and count down timer that is easily viewable from angles and in sun light and out door worthy.

Our issue is we're trying to accomplish the same thing on $500 or less... And fit it in a cars trunk or something. haha.

While at the Hobby Show racing display (we got two new racers from this show by the way, r/c racers stepping up... hit up your local Hobby Show for a booth) I got introduced to a special effects guy from the movies. He makes the count down bomb timers... cool. Turns out he lives next door to our club VP. Said he might be able to hook us up with things we need and lights that will work for next to nothing... great for us... but likely a one off deal. See if it goes anywhere. Freebies frequently don't.

[Cameraboy]

To update people...

These are the light we tested out on the weekend, red model
http://www.interwesternsales.com/pro...1=8566&l2=8635

They worked great in the sunlight, they made a 36" digit when assembled. but off axis they sucked. Standing at more than 20 degrees off and you could barely see it. I tried sanding one of the lenses to make it diffuse the light more and it helped, but not near enough. The actualy led light inside this unit are very small. If you had a race sight with a long shoot close to shore, this might be great... but other than that and this particular light was no good. One thing that might help is sanding the side of the lens too... I just thought of that. Or taking the lens apart and making it less translucent somehow and give more of a glowing effect?

If anyone is interested in trying things with these lights, the guy we had lined up to buy them from would do them for $10.50 each in quantity to do a two sided clock... $11.50 for qty to do a once sided clock.

Anyone out there with any success at the lighting side of things, let me know.

We are still going to move along with the brains of the box, figuring it will work with pretty much any LED light source.

Andrew, we were able to solve the angle problem by having the LEDs within 1/8-1/4" of the lens material. Our next experiment is trying red lenses per the manufacturers recommendation.

Hey Bartlett - show up to Kaiser's in a couple of weekends and give him a hand with that testing.