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I understand totally
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1 hour tonight got me a centimetre of progress. Didn’t end up getting the induction heater so had to take all your advice and heat the tower. Probably should have used more heat and less force. Fortunately it hasn’t bit me yet.
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Looking positive. Now get the PB Blaster or better if you have my favorite Kano Kroil penetrating oil in thru the stud holes in the tower and apply some heat and the penetrating chemical can get down between the stud and the tower hole. Might have to do a few times. Apply the wood wedge action along the way. Be careful at the gear case minimal gasket surface area at the DS bearing and seal fit. -
I gave it a liberal application of the special penetrating lube last night. Likely won't have time now until Friday to see if I can get them fully separated.
I started by using wooden wedges, they didn't apply enough force. I then thought a brass wedge or two would be nice. I then proceeded to some steel wedges and a chisel.
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Well would you look at that!
Next trip up clear coat and application of the name.
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Wow... what a fantastic restoration....... it looks brand new. Congratulations.Originally posted by Albert View Postsigpic
Dean F. Hobart
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That doesn’t matter.... it’s the results that matter... you can be proud of it for sure.
On the gear case issue.... it looks like it will need considerable work. You might consider getting a better one.... just a suggestion.sigpic
Dean F. Hobart
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Dean,
Thanks for the kind words.
As for the gear case. It looks terrible but actually the prop shaft bearings have little to no play. The oil that came out was clean and the prop seal looks pretty new.
It will probably not go on to win nationals but it should be able to be made serviceable. Might even do a little shaping while it’s apart. Despite my hesitancy to break stuff I’m far more comfortable with the metal parts of this project than the wooden parts.Last edited by Albert; 03-22-2021, 04:22 AM. -
Once you get case separated from the tower are you going inside the case? Need to be safe so the prop shaft should not have any in-out or side to side play! If any of these movements wear suspected on the double ball bearings and/or the prop shaft roller bearing. Happened to my Y80, replaced double balls play gone. The rear roller has a pressed on to the prop shaft race. The top drive shaft stub should also have no side -side play. The Y80 was built in the mid 70's so old stuff in there. Maybe they were replaced or just seals done?
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Ok cool. The shaping is critical..... the same amount needs to be removed from both sides. The spec sheet will give you all the required dimensions. Slow but sure.sigpic
Dean F. Hobart
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Very well done restoration looks very cool. You are closer to water runs!"Keep Move'n" life is catching up!
No man's life, liberty or property are safe while the legislature is in session.Comment
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Go to Ric Montoya’s site...http://www.yamatoracing.com/
click “Parts” and select Y80. Parts list will pop up.Comment
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Was able to get some part numbers on the bearings and seals required. The roller bearings appear to be standard 6202 skf bearings. The seal is a double lipped 16x30x7mm seal (have found a number on a single lip seal but will find something that's double). Waiting now to try and find and SKF or Timken cross for the needle bearing.
Still unsure how deep I'm going to tear in, I guess I'll see how quick I can get that other needle bearing and seal. And of course how much it will cost me, as you can imagine there have been some minor cost overruns on this project. -
I am very familiar with Y80 gear case and done rebuilds with seals, bearings, gear lash etc and can provide details and tips pulling apart and assembly for your gear case work. Just email me @psushinsky@cfl.rr.com, happy to help.
The prop shaft seal is as you note a 16-35-7mm. It is a single spring loaded lip with a second lip that is a wiper. The drive shaft seal is also the same OD but thicker and also is a single spring loaded lip with a 2nd wiper lip. The prop shaft ball bearing is as you note a 6202 but with C3 clearance (Ric and others recommendation) on the ball and race and is 15-35-11mm The drive shaft bearing is a 6202Z (Z for top shielded). There is a double row caged roller bearing on the outer part of the prop shaft that might be hard to get. The race for that is pressed on the prop shaft and is probably un-ubtanium. hope it is in good condition ;-)
All the ball bearings are available from SKF, also maybe the roller bearing?. Rick should have all the parts you need.
If the prop shaft has no side to side or in out play and the drive shaft is the same I recommend you just do the seals on the DS and prop shaft plus the O ring on the cone and have fun. Cone torque is 60 ft-lbs. Shims are delicate so treat them careful.
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Well after Easter Lunch today I needed to burn some calories...so my parents watched our daughter and I got to sneak out and spray some clear coat.
Next trip up I should have the vinyl cut for numbers and the boat name/logo. Would have liked to have the name under the clear...but I just couldn't pass up the opportunity today to do the work while I had the time. The clear really brought out the wood grain again. Quite happy with how it turned out.
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