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Giving a Bezoat a Second Chance

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  • #31
    What a day, had 4.5 hours to spend working uninterrupted. Just me and the orbital sander.


    No major surprises, only the corner of one sponson that’s going to need some attention from the pro. Also removed all steering hardware and throttle. Sanding of the coaming is next then we’ll make a template of the fairing before removal. Then it’s removing old nails and it’s off to get new decks!



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    • ZUL8TR
      ZUL8TR commented
      Editing a comment
      Looking good, sanding is great therapy. Also need to fix the damaged air trap. The black stains in the plywood look like skins were stapled and they are rusting.

  • #32
    Looks like you are coming right along. Keep up the good work. Post pictures along the way.
    sigpic

    Dean F. Hobart

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    • #33
      Albert,

      Not sure if I mentioned this previously but I have reproduced Bezoats decals if interested. If so send contact to jschubert19j@gmail.com



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      • #34
        Originally posted by John Schubert View Post
        Albert,

        Not sure if I mentioned this previously but I have reproduced Bezoats decals if interested. If so send contact to jschubert19j@gmail.com
        John,
        I have found a couple old picture of similar boats, when you say decals do you mean small or large ?
        I guess I will follow that up with did Mr. bowman have a similar livery for all his boats? Or were they sent off ready to paint for those that he did not race himself ?

        As I stated earlier in the thread the last paint job while weld done was not to my taste. Since it’s receiving new decks it will likely show off lots of bear wood but I really haven’t decided on a paint scheme yet.

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        • #35
          Originally posted by Albert View Post

          John,
          I have found a couple old picture of similar boats, when you say decals do you mean small or large ?
          I guess I will follow that up with did Mr. bowman have a similar livery for all his boats? Or were they sent off ready to paint for those that he did not race himself ?

          As I stated earlier in the thread the last paint job while weld done was not to my taste. Since it’s receiving new decks it will likely show off lots of bear wood but I really haven’t decided on a paint scheme yet.
          They are the standard decal as used by Shannon on the hydros. They were duplicated from a decal given to me to copy. If you e-mail me at the email address provided I will send a copy of what it looks like.



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          • #36
            Pete,
            The back 2 feet or so was definitely treated with something different than the rest of the boat at one point. Not sure if it was a stain/epoxy situation or what. Also there does seem to be some darkening around the staples from rust but I didn't want to get to aggressive sanding as I have been told it's quite difficult to use the sander to put material back on.
            As for the air trap that was part of the early discussion when deciding whether or not to fix the boat. The current plan is to cut it flush, router out the remaining wood that is below the base then pot the replacement pieces in epoxy and pin them in place with a few nails.
            Last edited by Albert; 09-10-2020, 05:55 AM.

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            • #37
              The back two feet looks like filler added to the West System. This is done to build up the surface with a little more material so that is can be sanded "dead nuts" flat. To go fast you want the running surface to be VERY flat, within 1/32. We build up the back a little to make it easier to flatten and so that it can be done periodically. I would not worry a lot about that for pleasure use - within 1/16th would be fine.



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              • #38
                Originally posted by csh12M View Post
                The back two feet looks like filler added to the West System. This is done to build up the surface with a little more material so that is can be sanded "dead nuts" flat. To go fast you want the running surface to be VERY flat, within 1/32. We build up the back a little to make it easier to flatten and so that it can be done periodically. I would not worry a lot about that for pleasure use - within 1/16th would be fine.
                We’ll put the work in to make sure it’s dead flat. While not strictly a competition machine it will be raced. At least locally with the half dozen other boats around.

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                • #39
                  Luc
                  Any of the staples that have erupted rust and the plywood notably disturbed should be fixed or they will continue to cause issues after re-coating. I dig out these bad ones and fill the hole with thickened epoxy. I use Cabosil (fumed silica) as a thickener.

                  Are you planing to nail the deck ply? I use Stainless anchor nails 3/4" x 16 gage on decks, I leave head exposed and countersunk and fill selected ones with Famowood to match Ocume color. I find the bronze nails discolor the wood over time. I do not like staples.

                  http://eclecticproducts.com/famowood...od-filler.html

                  Pete
                  "Keep Move'n" life is catching up!
                  No man's life, liberty or property are safe while the legislature is in session.

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                  • #40
                    Pete,
                    Maybe Carruthers will chime in with his plan here. As I said he’s the foreman on this operation. If he says dig them out then we’ll start digging.

                    In other news it looks like other than a fuel tank bracket the top half of my 80 is complete.


                    Last edited by Albert; 09-11-2020, 07:46 AM.

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                    • #41
                      Luc
                      How did the point cam check out, any sign of a crack at the key way? When I do pull apart on the Yamato and back together I check the cooling system for any leaks using a hose nozzle at the tower plug under pressure and block the 2 exhaust snoot water intake holes with strong tape. The 80 is susceptible to leaking under pressure at head bolt nuts with the 18mm head because the head bolt studs are right in the coolant in the hollowed out head where the studs pass thru. Maybe the 14mm head is different? They changed the head design in the 102 and later to provide a positive seal with studs passing thru cast aluminum towers that pres against the gasket when torqued. The head can also leak at the alum gasket.

                      In the tower get the megaphone level for good seal to powerhead I noted in post #28

                      Looks like going well

                      Pete
                      "Keep Move'n" life is catching up!
                      No man's life, liberty or property are safe while the legislature is in session.

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                      • #42
                        Points cam looked great , cleaned it up as you suggested as found no signs of cracks. Levelled the block as the manual instructed.

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                        • #43
                          As for the staples it will likely be impossible to pull out so probably just countersink and fill and as for the bottom I believe the the entire tunnel will need replaced just because of issues at the front 3 feet and back three feet so to replace the whole thing makes sense and it will give a chance to fill in the relief in the back as it is not needed with the current motor height rule

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                          • #44
                            There you have it folks, looks the the project it intensifying.

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                            • #45
                              What does the lower unit look like???? PICTURES



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