Giving a Bezoat a Second Chance

[ZUL8TR]

B4 you rering how about cleaning out the fog oil with a gas and oil mix wash out in the cylinders. Rope over a number of times to remove excess gas oil, then do a compression check to see what base you are at. A good Y80 will pull at least 90 at 1st pull and at least 150 in 4 pulls, I do cold to keep temp consistent and compare relative measurements. I always  ground the ignition with wire clips across the electric safety plug, just a habit since I do to the 25ss CD system.

[DeanFHobart]

Just going to re-ring the motor and have a look and make sure everything is ok. This motor was never really raced from what we can tell, it was a back-up for a lake run boat for the last 20 years. Also yes going to switch to the 9/16 prop shaft. It was heavily fogged based on what we saw with the other motor that came with it and a look down the plug holes.

As for the leak in the boat we're unsure if it's leaking from around the air trap of the transom. The boat will come down off of the storage racks in the next couple weeks and we're going to try and find the leak and make sure the bottom has remained perfectly flat.

Lots to do.

When you take it off the rack it will obviously be dry…. So with the boat right side up, pour some water in it and watch where it drips. Simple…. It works every time.

[Albert]

What parts are you getting for the new stock Y80? Among the parts will you be doing the prop shaft from metric to 9/16"?
Where is the seam leak you note in 12/9/21 post on boat or engine?

Just going to re-ring the motor and have a look and make sure everything is ok. This motor was never really raced from what we can tell, it was a back-up for a lake run boat for the last 20 years. Also yes going to switch to the 9/16 prop shaft. It was heavily fogged based on what we saw with the other motor that came with it and a look down the plug holes.

As for the leak in the boat we're unsure if it's leaking from around the air trap of the transom. The boat will come down off of the storage racks in the next couple weeks and we're going to try and find the leak and make sure the bottom has remained perfectly flat.

Lots to do.

[ZUL8TR]

What parts are you getting for the new stock Y80? Among the parts will you be doing the prop shaft from metric to 9/16"?
Where is the seam leak you note in 12/9/21 post on boat or engine?

[ZUL8TR]

What parts are you getting for the new stock Y80? Among the parts will you be doing the prop shaft from metric to 9/16"?
Where is the seam leak you note in 12/9/21 post, boat or engine?

[ZUL8TR]

What parts are you ordering for that stock #2 Y80 you got?

[Albert]

Well the snow is melting and the order has been placed for some y80 parts.
Time to get to work if I want to try the new motor out in late May.

[Albert]

Quick update for anyone looking for one.
The fall got busy in a hurry with us welcoming a new daughter to my house and my work being very very busy. Time has flown and the Bezoat is tucked away for winter. There is some work due in the spring. A small leak at one of the seams, and a new motor plate in the back with captive slots for the motor mount bolts.
While my basket case motor worked fairly well this year I did pick up another Y80. It's bone stock and had been hoarded away for many many years by a local who kept it for a back up for his lake runner. It's stock down to the prop shaft and early style carb. I will give this motor a once over and re-ring the other motor before spring to hopefully have a good runner and a back up/loaner to help get another local on the water.
I am still on the hunt for some cut sleeves or a cut shirt as I hope to make it to Maine in the spring and put some names to faces.
3AE72AE6-E4A2-4F22-BF07-438ECF8FA527.jpeg

[DeanFHobart]

Albert,

Perfect….I have always liked NAPA. Back in the day they had magneto parts for KG4’s and 20H’s…. I bought dozens.

You have a really nice outfit there… Congratulations on the outcome….. Probably one of the best restorations I have seen.

Dean……………………………

[Albert]

Dean,
You can get just about anything online. I'm sure racing plugs are readily available and regular b9es and b10es are still around just not available through NAPA at least in Canada. Full disclosure, I'm part owner of the NAPA store I manage, so I also want to support myself if at all possible.
I've never been a big Autolite fan...but it's a plug that still in production, is inexpensive and seems to be very similar to what the motor would have come with originally.
In the end I wanted something cheap and easy to get because I know I'm going to burn through a lot of plugs while learning to tune and It's a heck of a lot easier to just start each session or sometimes each test run on fresh plugs.

[DeanFHobart]

22FBAD78-7257-419D-8AAE-9EFCA22D3CA5.jpeg The plugs are dimensionally identical to a br9es . But it seems ngk is no longer producing most of their non resistor plugs unless you go to a racing plug which I can’t buy direct through Napa here in Canada.

Just a suggestion….. Have you tried to by them online? Spark plugs.com……. 888-800-9629 is their phone number.

[Albert]

22FBAD78-7257-419D-8AAE-9EFCA22D3CA5.jpeg The plugs are dimensionally identical to a br9es . But it seems ngk is no longer producing most of their non resistor plugs unless you go to a racing plug which I can’t buy direct through Napa here in Canada.

[ZUL8TR]

Luc
The Y80 is rated to 8000 but I would prefer to stay away from that limit. The mod guys go beyond that but I have been told they mod the top crank caged ball bearing that was designed to be loose so some oil could migrate there into a blind end. This is a shortfall of the Y80, 102, 302 design. My Merc 25ss has a pressure-vacuum design to feed the top crank bearings - great simple system.

Does that 3/4" reach AUTOLITE when installed have plug threads that are protruding into the combustion chamber? If yes not good. The NGK B10EGV plug I use is 3/4" reach and when I fit them to the 18 x 14mm adapter for my 18mm head they were shimmed to fit with no protruding threads into the chamber. That would create hot spots and interfere with combustion gas flow. The plug shimming was also done to index the plugs so the ground electrode tend was pointing toward the intake ports in the 2 to 4 o'clock range. It does help with cleaning and some rpm, every little bit counts, from my race days.

Pete

[Albert]

I would have expected higher rpm.

The plug is autolite 4051 .

Plug specs:


Shell
Thread Diameter
14mm
Thread Pitch
1.25mm
Seat Type
Gasket
Reach
19mm (3/4")
Hex Size
13/16" (21mm)
Terminal Type
Removable Nut
Gap
.024" (0.6mm)
Center Electrode
Material
Nickel
Type
Standard
Size
2.5mm
Projection
Non-Projected
Ground Electrode
Material
Nickel
Type
Standard
Quantity
1
Specifications
Resistor
No
Heat Range
1

[ZUL8TR]

Luc
On that plug what is the number and reach length. Is the reach such that no plug threads protrude into the combustion chamber? Should not. My HS jet is set 26 clicks open, 28 clicks is one turn open.

Is your surprise that rpm is to low for the speed or the speed too low for the rpm? With the prop I use the mid 60's speed at 7200 rpm at 1/2" deep is in the 5% slip area which is about right for a light race boat. All props have some slip depending on a lot of things, zero slip not physically possible. The 3 blade prop I use has a 6.56" diameter and 11.5" average pitch based on 3 measurements along a 2" radius arc at the lead edge, mid way and trail edge. Prop cupped and not included in the trail edge measurement.

I suppose I could get more out of it but at 79 on Sept 4 it is fast enough ;-) plus these days only have 2 props to fool with on the Y80 and the one noted above is used the most.
Pete