Project Boat and Mod motors

[blueskyracer]

Latest changes and a coat of paint.. With some set up suggestion I have gotten hopefully this works or gets me closer. With the changes the bottom width went from 33" to 38"

[blueskyracer]

Bottom is all done and now layed up a rear cowling today and trimmed to fit..Just needs paint now.. It was also so nice today we had to wash up the hot rod and go for a cruise

[blueskyracer]

Getting closer all the time..Had an issue with the flywheel.. I found out finally what the difference in small and large taper is.. Having a flywheel cut down for rope pulley

[blueskyracer]

Its a good thing I almost have this one done since my motor from last year was torn down today and it had some issues.. Threw a reed alignment pin and broke a ring.. Putting all the events together this happened at Centralia and it all makes sense now..

[ZUL8TR]

Engine reed cage pins

Are your reed cage pins the pressed in steel type? Per Jerry W. the plastic ones are better and safer and are retained by the reed stops, he told me he mods cages with steel for the plastic. Plastic come on the aluminum cages.

[blueskyracer]

Are your reed cage pins the pressed in steel type? Per Jerry W. the plastic ones are better and safer and are retained by the reed stops, he told me he mods cages with steel for the plastic. Plastic come on the aluminum cages.

Are we talking about the same pin.. This is the pin that goes from the block into the bottom of the reed cage..The motor has two small ones and a large one for the center bearing..

[ZUL8TR]

pins

Are we talking about the same pin.. This is the pin that goes from the block into the bottom of the reed cage..The motor has two small ones and a large one for the center bearing..

Not the same pins. I was noting the pins that the reeds and the reed stops are placed over on the faces of the cage. The one you note is the rear alignment pin. Don't know what damage you had, I had a loose rear cage pin in my 25ss 22 ci engine and Jerry said to drill the block pin hole deeper and use a longer same OD steel pin and Locktite it in place.

Which of the pins you note were thrown?

[blueskyracer]

Not the same pins. I was noting the pins that the reeds and the reed stops are placed over on the faces of the cage. The one you note is the rear alignment pin. Don't know what damage you had, I had a loose rear cage pin in my 25ss 22 ci engine and Jerry said to drill the block pin hole deeper and use a longer same OD steel pin and Locktite it in place.

Which of the pins you note were thrown?

The number one and two reed cage pin

[Dave M]

Oopps

The number one and two reed cage pin

Mike,

When you make horsepower, you start tossing those pins. We had to scrap our best E engine a few years back becasue we could not keep those pins in no matter how hard we tried. It was Dad's best engine and had won many races prior to the wreck. It was wicked fast. He pulled props bigger than my Super E would.

If I could get away with it, I would weld those dang pins in. But there is no way to do that I know of. If the holes get elongated in any way shape or form, you are going to toss them again. Give Eric Vanover a call, he might have a good solution.

[blueskyracer]

Has anyone every run the motor without those two small pins? Since they are bolted in would it hurt.. Yes the hole is no go was thinking of JB weld

[krazy karl]

Unless I am misunderstanding something here, how could one of these pins come out? They fit into a blind hole in the reed cage, at least that is the case with the bronze cages, I don't have any aluminum ones to check. Maybe the aluminum cages are different but I have always been told that the aluminum cages should be replaced with bronze as they are much more durable. Anyway the pins aren't needed for anything other than alignment when assembling the engine, will just be a bit trickier aligning them, just don't tighten the main case bolts until you start the bolts into the reed cages. These bolts will secure the reed cases.
kk

[blueskyracer]

Unless I am misunderstanding something here, how could one of these pins come out? They fit into a blind hole in the reed cage, at least that is the case with the bronze cages, I don't have any aluminum ones to check. Maybe the aluminum cages are different but I have always been told that the aluminum cages should be replaced with bronze as they are much more durable. Anyway the pins aren't needed for anything other than alignment when assembling the engine, will just be a bit trickier aligning them, just don't tighten the main case bolts until you start the bolts into the reed cages. These bolts will secure the reed cases.
kk

Karl thats what I though.How could that pin come out but the hole in the block is all enongated and it is gone

[krazy karl]

I don't see how that could happen but I have seen some strange things happen through the years.
kk

[Jack Stotts]

Mike, I'm a very long way from being an expert other than being a has been drip under pressure(X-spert) but I think part of your lift issue is due to the wedge on the bottom down the center. It tends to lift the rear and force the nose down. As you test and if your are not getting what you're looking for, I'd start sanding that thing down. You don't have to do it all at one time. Take some off and see what the result is. Jack

[Guest]

Reed Blocks

Mike,
Sent you an E mail on reed blocks. We are installing the Mercury 44XS reed pins in all my engines. They will never come out!

Alan