Composite Questions

[matthias]

I have trouble remembering but here are some pictures

The first pic is the framing in the first boat

The next two pics are of the last boat. I changed the way I did the coaming side. I made a panel for the entire right side coaming rather than molding it in the deck. I would actually do it to both sides if I were to do it again. It would be an easy fix on any of the boats I built before the change. I also added airtrap after the boats were made.

for people following the thread, look closely at the first pic. I use the glue cones to apply the bead of glue to the frames.

[mercguy]

cool stuff!!!!

I have trouble remembering but here are some pictures

The first pic is the framing in the first boat

The next two pics are of the last boat. I changed the way I did the coaming side. I made a panel for the entire right side coaming rather than molding it in the deck. I would actually do it to both sides if I were to do it again. It would be an easy fix on any of the boats I built before the change. I also added airtrap after the boats were made.

for people following the thread, look closely at the first pic. I use the glue cones to apply the bead of glue to the frames.

boy, they look so cool when they are all carbon fiber looking!!!! Why did you change the coaming design? Easier to build or easier to repair???? Thanks for taking the time to explain your process Matt!!!! Mine and Guido's molded Arltralites much be the early ones you built...........

PS: sure would like to have one of those big ass ARLTRALITE decals for the coaming side!

[matthias]

I think I only built two with the full coaming. Having a panel extend from the bottom of the boat to the top of the coaming is stiffer and stronger than having it joined at the deck line. It is also possible to make the coaming higher than the mold allows.

[mercguy]

I think I only built two with the full coaming. Having a panel extend from the bottom of the boat to the top of the coaming is stiffer and stronger than having it joined at the deck line. It is also possible to make the coaming higher than the mold allows.

thanks for the info!!! Mine has an extension built on top of the right side coaming..........you must have added that for the original owner..........I like it.......

[blueskyracer]

looks real nice Daren

[Dave M]

Red in the Face

My face gets bright red when I go in the fabric store looking for supplies

I use tremco 440 window glazing tape 1/8"x1/2" for bagging

I turn red before I walk into JoAnn Fabrics on a Friday night looking for some last minute peel ply. Or when I am at WalMart and I am really going through the clearance tables with bolts of fabric. All marked more than 50% off. I usually buy a lot of that when I find it on the clearance tables. So I have less than $5.00 into a 10 yard by 36" wide bolt. That is cheap. But the ladies sure give me a stare down when I am elbowing through the stuff.

For tape, I found Eastern Burlap Trading Company is downright reasonable on real bagging tape. Last time I bought a case of it and it brought the price down to less than $5.00 a roll. I don't skimp on that, as I can re-use it and the bag does not stick to it perm. Some of that stuff you have to cut off the bag as it will never seperate from the tape.

[Shane_B]

Matt-

Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience with composites. I went to the ATC website and they have a good manual available for download (ATC Core Bonding Manual, go to www.atc-fp.com, click 'literature,' "brochure,' and finally Application Guides).

Looks like they focus on a dry lay up for most applications (i.e., laying up outer layer, letting it cure, then bonding core and finally inter layer). Given hydros are smaller projects than what ATC shows, do you recommend a wet lay up for all hull layers/core? And if so, what resin do you recommend (hysol)?


Again, thanks again for sharing your vast experience.

Shane

[matthias]

ATC sold Core Cell to Gurit.
I lay up the coring in the part all at once. No secondary bonds. I use aeropoxy. Pro set, mgs, mvs are all good laminating epoxies. I dont use any polyester or vinylester resins.

I will be making parts for the 5L soon and will try to show some process

[pearson95m]

Thanks for the info... I hope to see more pictures and posts explaining the process.

[matthias]

Taping joints

Here is how I tape joints

1 sand and clean he surfaces
2 coat the area with resin
3 use a cone to put a bead (1/4" diameter) in the corners
4 lay the cloth in the joint and wet out
5 cover the tape with peel ply

after the resin is hard, remove the peel ply

peel ply isnt just for vacuum bagging. Using peel ply saves sanding and prevents the fibers from damage caused by sanding

[matthias]

mirror pods

I cut a piece of cardboard tube on an angle and covered it with sheathing tape (packing tape works well too). no wax or mold release necessary. I laid up 5 layers of 6oz glass with west system epoxy over the tubes. Flooded the parts again after the first bit of epoxy gelled. trim the parts, give them a light sand and paint.

[matthias]

Drain tubes

I use 1/2" copper couplings and flare the end with a ball peen hammer.

place the coupler on a solid piece of steel (vice)
hold a ball peen hammer on the coupler
smack the ball peen hammer with another hammer until it is flared
turn the coupler over an smack it again to flatten the flared end
scuff up the out side and glue it in with epoxy

[blueskyracer]

great idea..

[blueskyracer]

I tried your idea and it works great..It is really easy and leaves a nice hole for the plug and seals the area really well.. It is a perfect fit for a 5/8's drain plug and I used a dremel to enlarge the hole a little to handle the sleve

[HydroKyle93R]

Fin bracket reinforcement

Matt: I'm curious how the fin brackets are supported and what type of reinforcement is put in place, specifically for the mold boats? In other words, is the interior of the rear sponson frame beefed up in any way to support the bracket? I'm sure Kyle and Pat are interested in this as well.