Step by Step Building a hydroplane / MRC is up and running

[sws115]

very nice

Thanks for the comments on the poplar. What I am getting is rough lumber that has to be ripped and planed. It comes out really nice, as it cuts and planes very smoothly. I am not really concerned about weight as I will use the boat for a lake racer. May possibly be used in B mod if the class is run again in Region 11, but weight is not an issue as I am fairly light. I have to put 7 or 8 pounds in my heavy a** Zorkin to make minimum in C Mod and 35 in my Sorensen marathon boat to make minimum weight in C Stock. The boat will be completely encapsulated in epoxy.
kk

[blueskyracer]

Bottom is now installed. Coated the side that goes against the stringers with a full coat of epoxy using a roller. Then I brush the stringers with more epoxy and flip the panel over and install with screws and nails.

[Tomtall]

Nice

Mike -

I have enjoyed this thread a great deal. Keep the pic's and details coming. Thanks for taking the time to do this.

Tom

[Jakeroub]

Hey Krazy Karl-

Unless you are building the entire boat outside, I assume you are moving it in and out... How do you keep everything straight and not twisted on the uneven ground?


Mike- I agree with Tom, every time I come on I hope to see an update on this thread. Great work!

[blueskyracer]

Tom and Jake, glad you like the post. Hopefully you will be motivated to build one yourself. In fact I just happen to know where you can get some good plans!

[krazy karl]

Fixture/jig

Hey Krazy Karl-

Unless you are building the entire boat outside, I assume you are moving it in and out... How do you keep everything straight and not twisted on the uneven ground?


Mike- I agree with Tom, every time I come on I hope to see an update on this thread. Great work!

Hi Jake. I went to college in Worcester, not Holy Cross. We were the radicals. I have it on a framework that is quite rigid. I move it outside to put it in the sun to help the epoxy cure. My garage/shop does not get really warm and the sun does a better job if it is not too cold out.
kk

[Mini Max]

For the cold weather guys you should have comfort to know that the epoxy's ultimate cure is dependent upon thorough mixing of Part A and B, and not the temperature at gel. The ultimate properties are determined by the highest temperature the epoxy sees, or post cure temperature, months or years later. You can mix a cup of West system, then freeze it for a week. When bought to room temp it will cure normally. That's also what pre preg is. Fiber impregnated with mixed epoxy, then frozen till use and cured at elevated temperature.

When coating wood with epoxy, temperature can be used to your advantage. If the wood is warm and the temperature drops, the epoxy will be sucked in somewhat. If you coat the Wood and then take it out in the sun, the air in the wood will blow out of the uncured film leaving the coating porous and cratered. barrier coat at the end of the day when the temperature is dropping.

This is my all epoxy boat seen in my signature which I post cured after it was completely painted and rigged. It saw 150 F for 36 hrs with a ramp up and down.. Better to uniformly post cure your boat than to only have the side facing the sun see temp. A tent of black plastic out in the sun can get you the same temperature if you so choose. Typically best to do before the final coat of paint. The laminate now rings like the dinner bell at the Ponderosa.

[Raymond]

Yea, and I can't wait.

Building your own boat and racing it, has to be the coolest thing of all.

OhhhYeaaa. The only thing stopping me from starting a boat build now is young Ray's Eclipse engine rebuild project that has taken all the garage space hostage from anything woodworking.

[BP125V]

good luck

OhhhYeaaa. The only thing stopping me from starting a boat build now is young Ray's Eclipse engine rebuild project that has taken all the garage space hostage from anything woodworking.

Good luck on your boat Ray, it is great seeing other people start building. Don't hesitate to ask questions, Hydroracer Mike is doing a great job of documenting the process but there will still be issues that pop up that are unique to your situation.

If I may make a recommendation: If you cut lightening holes in everything you can you will save only 2-3 lbs and it will be a fair amount of work. However, it is 2-3 lbs of weight that you will never be able to get out of the boat once it is done. This is important especially for the smaller classes. Also, if you DO NOT cut lightening holes in the cockpit sides under the deck line, which I recommend, under the decks will never see the epoxy damaging effects of the sun and then you can get away with one coat of WEST on everything under the decks. Controlling how much epoxy you use will not only save you $ but also dead weight.

[blueskyracer]

More of the bottom planking is now installed. Note you have to bevel the edge of the afterplane where it goes against the air trap. Tomorrow I should be installing the sponson bottom after planning the surfaces to the stringers. Then a lot of sanding before two coats of epoxy and varnish. Since I don't have a lot of lifting help I totally finish the bottom so that I only have to flip the boat over once and finish the deck.

I also go around to all the edges and use a trim router with a flush bit to trim as much as possible and then I hand sand the little bit left.

[sws115]

looking good and very big ?
what size boat is that and is it square from the after plane to the transom ??

[blueskyracer]

looking good and very big ?
what size boat is that and is it square from the after plane to the transom ??

I would post the size but that will give away what class it will be running in. I will say it is the biggest one I have built so far.

As far as the square question I am not sure what you are talking about. I will say that the transom is square to the air traps and are in line from one side to the other and the motor mount is square to the transom.

[sws115]

I would post the size but that will give away what class it will be running in. I will say it is the biggest one I have built so far.

As far as the square question I am not sure what you are talking about. I will say that the transom is square to the air traps and are in line from one side to the other and the motor mount is square to the transom.

i was looking at the whole center section is it square all the way front to back

[blueskyracer]

i was looking at the whole center section is it square all the way front to back

Maybe you are wondering if the cockpit and the small tunnel is offset? Yes

[daveracerdsh]

Class

Well..since u have build some cmh boats...the only way to go is up. Either DSH or DMH.....Don't think it;s a pro boat. Does not look big enough to be a Formula E.