One last bit of help

[Jack Stotts]

My shear pins are stainless steel. No rust! I did use some piano wire but it did rust some so I went back to the stainless. Have never sheared a pin in my CMH to date. Been running this type pin for 11 years.

[Bill Huson]

Sawzall !

I found good 3/16 steel rod at ACE so I am going to cut some up. I will use a sawsall since I hate those nasty discs that Mr Huson refers to. I had one blow up and luckily I was wearing safety glasses. I also found some good nuts with the nylon lock feature.

Man, cutting rod with a Sawzall is work. Go with dangerous disks, easy once you get the hang of it - steady hand. If one had time and enough dangerous disks one could cut a car in half! Camshafts included. DDs ROCK!

[johnsonm50]

I use 3/16 inch stainless rod and cut to length. Buy it at a model shop. I run them in my C Mod Hydro and have used some of the sames pins for 3 years. They get a little bent and I just pound them straight. I tighten the prop tight enough to slightly bend the shear pin.

I once test broke an OMC 3/16 shear pin to compare with SS 3/16 bolt shank by putting them in a vice and smash lab-ing them with a hammer. I was surprised to find the OMC pin to be stronger and will bend quite a bit.

[seanp3]

[QUOTE=blueskyracer;103068]This all helps a lot. I like the list of things to take also but I did not notice beer. Must be an oversite. Hopefully we will not look like idiots and have some fun. Right now the big issue is the weather. It is still snowing and it is almost the middle of April!
QUOTE]

Beer is a given.....no need to be on the list. Just make sure you wait until after all racing is over before you crack one open. They usually go over those kinds of details at the driver's meeting

Most importantly.....go out and have some fun!! It will take you a few times out to get used to the boat. Gary has your boat setup well and you shouldn't have to make many adjustments. Someone will need to help you go through the setup with your Yamato the first time, then you're good to go.

[seanp3]

This is probably a really dumb question but where does the 102 pick up the water? I see no inlet except the big hole behind the prop. If that is the water pick up then where does the exhaust come out at?

We did get a cart and we are in the process of making it look like the boat.

The club we will be racing with uses AOF and we have all joined and have our cards. If we decided to race at a APBA race do we have to join it to?

The cooling system on the Yamatos is force fed from the propellar. If you look just aft of the propellar under the planing plate their is a piece that protrudes downward (sorry for not knowing the lingo of this stuff). You will see a single hole where the propellar will force feed water into it which goes all the way up the tower to cool the engine.

Something to be careful about.......certain setups with the Yamato will not allow sufficient water into the hole to cool the motor and it will steem and eventually overheat and stick a piston. Be concervative with your setups until you become comfortable with your setups so you know it will cool during a race. The locals will help you with your initial setups. If you're running CSH you should have no trouble as you will be running fairly deep (3/4"). However, going to 20SSH with the restrictor you can jack the motor up 1/4" and run at 1/2" deep. Some folks have trouble cooling at this depth. I'd suggest staying at 3/4" deep in 20SSH until you have some time to go test at various heights to know how your equipment cools. Every boat is a little different and can be a little tricky.

Hope this helps

[ricochet112]

I once test broke an OMC 3/16 shear pin to compare with SS 3/16 bolt shank by putting them in a vice and smash lab-ing them with a hammer. I was surprised to find the OMC pin to be stronger and will bend quite a bit.

OMC drive pins, (they are NOT shear pins) are the strongest pins I've ever seen/used. 307949 or 324690 (I use 324690, they are a little shorter). I have sheared most others,aircraft clevis pins/bolts...but haven't even come close to hurting an OMC drive pin.

[johnsonm50]

OMC drive pins, (they are NOT shear pins) are the strongest pins I've ever seen/used. 307949 or 324690 (I use 324690, they are a little shorter). I have sheared most others,aircraft clevis pins/bolts...but haven't even come close to hurting an OMC drive pin.

They will shear under the stress of a fishing prop [2:1 or so] geared hitting a log, rock or chunk of ice.

[ricochet112]

They will shear under the stress of a fishing prop [2:1 or so] geared hitting a log, rock or chunk of ice.

Off topic, they used to be brass and called shear pins, they are now extremely hard and called drive pins. If you break one of these newer pins you have a bad prop hub or prop shaft, (worn pin slot or pin hole) and or you will destroy your prop at the same time. These pins are not designed to "save" your fishing prop from damage as the older brass ones were.

[Trihedral_1]

[QUOTE=blueskyracer;103033]It's just a little over one month till our first race. I have one last batch of questions. For all of these questions keep in mind we will be running CSH with two Yamato 102 engines.).


Ric Montoya (RPM Marine) has everything you will need to go racing (plugs, 102 parts, skid fins, steering cable, sheer pins, or whatever you need). His phone # is 206-283-4773.

Jimi O. (305-R/1-US)..............

[blueskyracer]

One more item. These props are sharp. What do you use to hold them with while you tighten the nuts. They look like they could do some serious damage to some fingers and palms.

Also, I have two props to start with. One looks to me like a basic prop with very strait backs to the blades but the other one is definately different. It looks like leaves from a tree. Rounded edges on the front and back. Do they have names for these two styles of props?

[bill boyes]

You can make a tool to hold the rope plate or you can buy a real nice one from Allen Brown. "Brown Tool". Check the lower right on Hydro Racer main page.

[Brian10s]

One more item. These props are sharp. What do you use to hold them with while you tighten the nuts. They look like they could do some serious damage to some fingers and palms.

Also, I have two props to start with. One looks to me like a basic prop with very strait backs to the blades but the other one is definately different. It looks like leaves from a tree. Rounded edges on the front and back. Do they have names for these two styles of props?

The props are very sharp and I would not recommend using the fingers to hold it while tightening. Prop gloves (look like orange oven mitt) that are made out of kevlar (or something like that) are used to hold the prop while tightening. These can be purchased from Security or Lifeline (I think) but can also be borrowed from the trailer next door, in a pinch.

As for the blade shape of props, there are basically a 2 types, cleaver and round ear, with many variations on those basic themes (tulip, clipped cleaver, etc). Each props tends to behave differently in speed and boat handling, even if they are from the same family. I would recommend running both of them (one the 1st heat and the other the 2nd) before you decide which is your #1. That and having 2 props is never a bad idea. Besides, Gary never had much junk so both props should be pretty good.

[STEVE FRENCH]

This is probably a really dumb question but where does the 102 pick up the water? I see no inlet except the big hole behind the prop. If that is the water pick up then where does the exhaust come out at?

LOL

This is one of THE MOST important of yer ?'S

The prop feeds the smaller hole(s) in that exhaust snout and has to PUSH the water up the tower and thru the powerhead exit'n the water tube that wraps over the exhaust manifold........Do you have yer heighth and angle checkers?......do NOT start up without! http://www.btmco.com/Set-up_Tools.html
I think (?) on the 102 you can add an extension of clear tube'n over the wrap over tube and run it down the deck till it is near the throttle and duct tape it so it spills over side...Use this to keep an eye on water in case your too high.
Max height to bottom of boat is 3/4" (to the center of prop shaft) and this is were ya usually need to be to "be-in-the-hunt".........this is were ya need a bucket of props and yer GPS.......most props will "pump" water at 3/4"....but ya need to TEST......Also race conditions will be very different to test water.......keep an eye for steam out of that spill tube and a crew member watch'n on shore....
Does yer rig have a tunnel in back of bottom between the air traps?......you will need to check height from side of tunnel....not in it.
You can also check this with a straight edge and tape measure but a height checker with pointer to center of prop shaft is much easier/accurate.....
You will have a BAD and SHORT first day out if prop shaft is too high in relation to bottom of boat and prop does not feed that little hole in the exhaust snout!........

If this is a complete rig from Gary at Colorado River Auto Sales....hang on.......it's a "TOP-GUN"...RIG!
Fallow his set-up/prop instructions and HANG-ON!.......

19P

[blueskyracer]

I just put the engine on for the first time so that I could see how everything hooks up. Right now with the engine all the way down on the motor mount it measures out at 7/8's of an inch for an engine height ( bottom to center of shaft). I made some shims but I think that is a safe starting point. Also the transom thrust bracket has not been changed since we got the boat so that should also be good.

I did notice that the steering is very stiff. Is that normal so that a person does not over correct?

Also I noticed a lever coming out of the carb on the left side. Is that the choke? Also what is the big thumb screw on the bottom front of the carb for?

I would also like to add that we have no intention of running this boat till we get to a race with a test day so that we can get lots of help and advice from all of you. We are counting down the days till May 23-25.


Mike

[aojesus]

The thumb screw is to richen or lean the carburetor. It won't hurt to double check the angle as anything can happen. When you get to the race find someone with a Yamato and ask some questions. Chances are they will soon be at your motor helping in any way possible with set-up and questions. I have no doubt you will be amazed at all the help you will receive. Also, bring a notebook and pen as there will be information you won't want to forget. The racers out your way are a great bunch of people, you will be well taken care of.