One last bit of help

[blueskyracer]

It's just a little over one month till our first race. I have one last batch of questions. For all of these questions keep in mind we will be running CSH with two Yamato 102 engines.

1) Who is a good source of shear pins and prop nuts? What is the torque on a prop nut?

2) What oil is prefered for mixing with the fuel?

3) What oil is prefered for the lower unit? Also, I found the drain plug which is a philips headed screw but where do you add the oil at?

4) Who carrys the safety switch lanyards and should you keep a spare? Right now we have none.

5) Can a 102 be used in 20SSH with a restricter plate? If so, who makes the plates?

6) Since we are working on a new boat for 2009 what do folks use for a fillet for between the cockpit sides and the deck? Must be paintable. I noticed in the new boats for 2008 thread there was something being used that was a tan color. I know silicone can not be painted over.

7) What is a good check list for necessary stuff to take to a race for the boat?

I hope these are not stupid questions. Any help is appreciated. At least now I have a boat and some motors to look at.

Thanks
Mike

[Brian10s]

It's just a little over one month till our first race. I have one last batch of questions. For all of these questions keep in mind we will be running CSH with two Yamato 102 engines.

1) Who is a good source of shear pins and prop nuts? What is the torque on a prop nut?

There are several around. I get mine from MJRacing (I get the family discount) - they can be reached at mjracing@windstream.net. As for torque, I have always used tight is tight.
2) What oil is prefered for mixing with the fuel?

It seems that everybody uses different stuff - from regular 2 cycle Merc oil to synthics like klotz or whatever. Everybody has pro's and cons to what they are using. I am sure many people will chime in with better suggestions.
3) What oil is prefered for the lower unit? Also, I found the drain plug which is a philips headed screw but where do you add the oil at?

Don't mess with that screw. The easier way to fill it is to drop the foot (2 nuts where the tower meets the foot) and pour your lube in from the top. As for what kind, once again you will see many answers.

4) Who carrys the safety switch lanyards and should you keep a spare? Right now we have none.

I found in a marine store a replacement lanyard that had 6 different ends on it. I would recommend picking one up. Most of the time you lanyard will stay where it belongs but at least once a year you see someone hunting the river bank looking for a lost one.

5) Can a 102 be used in 20SSH with a restricter plate? If so, who makes the plates?

Yes it can. As for the where to get one, not sure. I sure some one post where they are, if not Scott Reed, SO Grand Poba can be reached.

6) Since we are working on a new boat for 2009 what do folks use for a fillet for between the cockpit sides and the deck? Must be paintable. I noticed in the new boats for 2008 thread there was something being used that was a tan color. I know silicone can not be painted over.

Most of those gussets are made out of west systems epoxy with filler. West is probably the most popular epoxy used in racing. Most boats are not only glued together with it but also coated with it. This makes them last. West Marine sells it everyday

7) What is a good check list for necessary stuff to take to a race for the boat?

A little bit of everything. There are basic list like, gas, food, clothes, pit shoes and dry shoes. Then you get more specific list that very from trailer to trailer. I wouldn't worry too much because anything you forget can usually be bought or borrowed in the pits. That is one thing racers are very good about is helping out and sharing.
I hope these are not stupid questions. Any help is appreciated. At least now I have a boat and some motors to look at.

Good luck gettign ready for your first race. Nothing is better than the smell of your trailer box in Spring. Of course nothings worse than the smell of the trailer box in August.

Thanks
Mike

[Wayne mtl qc]

There are no stupid questions in this sport

I'll be watching this thread because I'm in the same boat (pun)as you.Yes the 102 can be run in 20ssh with a restrictor plate, I also need one.When I picked up my motor the previous owner was using AMSOIL DOMINATOR running at 30:1 .All the other stuff pins,kill switch,etc I can get from FRALICK Good Luck Wayne 96CE

[aojesus]

Plates

Ric Montoya has plates. http://yamatoracing.net/

[seanp3]

It's just a little over one month till our first race. I have one last batch of questions. For all of these questions keep in mind we will be running CSH with two Yamato 102 engines.

1) Who is a good source of shear pins and prop nuts? What is the torque on a prop nut?

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...levispins.php-
get the clevis pins with p/n AN393-39. Cheaper to just buy 100 at a time.
2) What oil is prefered for mixing with the fuel? Amzoil, Klotz, and there's a bunch of other good ones. I run 30:1, which is recommended by Yamato

3) What oil is prefered for the lower unit? Also, I found the drain plug which is a philips headed screw but where do you add the oil at?

I've used the green Mercury gear lube and have had no trouble. I usually change it every couple races
4) Who carrys the safety switch lanyards and should you keep a spare? Right now we have none.

Steve Greeves of Portabe Bay Systems can help you with a lot of racing equipment and a real good guy......
http://www.portagebaysystems.com/marine/

Also, Ric Montoya is the Yamato dealer out West and can help you with most anything you might need (restrictors for 20SSH) Yamato related......
http://yamatoracing.net/

5) Can a 102 be used in 20SSH with a restricter plate? If so, who makes the plates?

See answer to #4

6) Since we are working on a new boat for 2009 what do folks use for a fillet for between the cockpit sides and the deck? Must be paintable. I noticed in the new boats for 2008 thread there was something being used that was a tan color. I know silicone can not be painted over.

7) What is a good check list for necessary stuff to take to a race for the boat?

Here's a list I put together when I started a couple years ago......

Boat
Motor
Props
Clevis pins
Gas
Helmet & safety cloths
2 cycle oil
WD40
gear case oil
prop nuts
spark plugs
tools - screw drivers wrenches etc
knee pads or pad for boat
wet shoes
extra clothes
sunscreen
camera
video if you have it
GPS for recording speeds - or Keller speedometer
notebook to keep track of your set ups and results
stop watch - some guys like to have one in the boat so they can make timed runs at the clock before the race starts
sponge
drain plugs
starting fluid - for drying out engine
small plastic bucket
soap/hand cleaner
waders - if the water is cold
extra starter ropes - depending on the engine you run
shim sticks - 1/16", 1/8", 1/4"
height checker - make sure you are legal (can borrow)
angle checker - to check prop shaft angle (should have one since they are all slightly different
EZ canopy (nice to have)
legal gas - have yours checked before you mix with oil
paper towels
duct tape
extra kill switch tether
cordless drill & bits
food & drink
test wheel
tachometer
fire extinguisher
sandpaper
file, toilet paper, generator, duct tape

Mike

Hope this helps

[Jack Stotts]

I use 3/16 inch stainless rod and cut to length. Buy it at a model shop. I run them in my C Mod Hydro and have used some of the sames pins for 3 years. They get a little bent and I just pound them straight. I tighten the prop tight enough to slightly bend the shear pin.

[John Sherlock]

Mike,

This was a big help for me. I am just packing the trailer for my first running with a CMH. Heading for Tabor City, NC...

Thank you,
John

[blueskyracer]

This all helps a lot. I like the list of things to take also but I did not notice beer. Must be an oversite. Hopefully we will not look like idiots and have some fun. Right now the big issue is the weather. It is still snowing and it is almost the middle of April!

I have sent Ric Montoya an e-mail and will wait for a reply. I also have some of that 3/16 shaft material, in a pinch, from my R/C days of boat racing.

[DougMc]

Kill Switch.

Be sure to shorten your kill switch lanyard. You want the motor to shut down rapidly if you go out of the boat.

[Kev43V]

one other real important thing is to make sure the kill switch is actually hooked up..... Right Kip?? btw potential dim bulb award for you. hehe

[Tom10W]

Misc

As Brian mentioned, fill the lower unit up by removing it from the motor. Fill the lub up to the upper screw. First remove the gasket if it is stuck on the lower unit then look down inside the lower unit and you should see the upper screw on the inside. I recommend getting a few lower unit gasket from Rick Montoya as well. They are about a dollar each. I would check the gear lube often, at least every couple races and replace the gasket as needed.

As for Yamato gas/oil mix, Ski Doo has a number of oils that can be used.
They have a mineral oil, a synthetic oil and a blend. I would recommend using the blend. You can buy it by the qt or gallon.

The 102 has no water pump. I recommend that you rig up a pump in case you need to dry out the motor or want to break a new one in.
The guys in your area will show you what you need. I used a bilge pump with long cables hooked to a rechargable "jump start" battery system. It's light, easy to work with and you can jump your auto if it doesn't start as well...

One more thing. Safety issue here. Make sure your turning fin is parallel with the air traps from front to back. I use a little lazer on the fin and measure at two points on the air trap, one at the front and one at the rear. By doing this, if the fin catches the water, it won't send you right or left. You can use a shim or a washer on the front or rear of the fin to accomplish getting the fin parallel.

You had very good questions. Good Luck!
Tom Kargus

[14-H]

What to bring to Race...

Amazingly, no one has mentioned the most important:

Plenty of Coffee and Beer!

Seriously, though, don't forget to join an APBA club and also bring your APBA card. Might want to get a boat cart, too. Eddie.

[Bill Huson]

Stainless ???

I use 3/16 inch stainless rod and cut to length. Buy it at a model shop. I run them in my C Mod Hydro and have used some of the sames pins for 3 years. They get a little bent and I just pound them straight. I tighten the prop tight enough to slightly bend the shear pin.

I do believe the 3/16" rod one finds at a hobby shop (owned a hobby shop for 15 years) is called "piano wire" probably because of the hardness of the steel. Not stainless, it will rust, but it is good for shear pins. Bends just a wee bit when you tighten the nut but not hard to remove later. I would cut the piano wire with "dangerous disks" #406 (I think) Dremal grinding disks. Wear safety glasses, the dangerous part is when the thin carbide disks hand grenade and fling pieces all over.

I also used 3/16" aircraft clevis pins, they work nice. Stainless steel DID NOT work. Dang things bent and then work hardened and I'd wind up beating the bejesus outta the embedded pin with a punch and a BFH. A three beer and 47 cuss word job. Also not good, the 3/16" slightly tapered pins used to locate pieces on a millwork bed. Forgot what they're called, but they're case hardened and snap easy - as in shear. Ordinary prop to prop shaft loads on an old Mercury KG-4 A motor would snap them before making it to the start line.

[blueskyracer]

This is probably a really dumb question but where does the 102 pick up the water? I see no inlet except the big hole behind the prop. If that is the water pick up then where does the exhaust come out at?

We did get a cart and we are in the process of making it look like the boat.

The club we will be racing with uses AOF and we have all joined and have our cards. If we decided to race at a APBA race do we have to join it to?

I found good 3/16 steel rod at ACE so I am going to cut some up. I will use a sawsall since I hate those nasty discs that Mr Huson refers to. I had one blow up and luckily I was wearing safety glasses. I also found some good nuts with the nylon lock feature.

We only have one parts store in this small town and all they have is Valvoline 2 stroke oil so I will look for something else when I am in Seattle on the 23rd of April. They also only have CRC marine gear oil. I also notice that one NGK plug for these puppies is almost $20 a piece. Ouch, that is at least three gallons of diesel. LOL

[DeanFHobart]

Spark Plugs

NGK R8102A10.

Rockauto.com or sparkplugs.com. About $10 each.