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Electronics for STINGER ????????

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  • #16
    No Kidding!!!

    Originally posted by Jeff Akers View Post
    If the above statment is true,and I were you, I would find another dealer ASAP !

    To answer your question about testing between heats....Not a problem

    bust out the meter first...............unless you know what has failed..................by the way Steve, I know I have a manual for that engine in a box somewhere in my shop........
    Daren

    ​DSH/750ccmh/850ccmh

    Team Darneille


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    • #17
      Thanks That Would Be Great

      DAREN, I've got a couple things I would like to talk to you about. Would it be possible to get a phone #. Your new boat looks GREAT. I was talking to LEE he said it even look better in person..steve..22-R..QUINAULTRACING
      Last edited by QUINAULTRACING; 12-21-2006, 03:24 PM. Reason: TO ADD NAME OF PERSON IT IS MENT FOR

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      • #18
        Originally posted by QUINAULTRACING View Post
        DAREN, I've got a couple things I would like to talk to you about. Would it be possible to get a phone #. Your new boat looks GREAT. I was talking to LEE he said it even look better in person..steve..22-R..QUINAULTRACING
        check your PM's.....
        Daren

        ​DSH/750ccmh/850ccmh

        Team Darneille


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        • #19
          Thanks !

          I forsee a new meter in my future, and maybe a portable weather station as well.

          Most dealers around here would rather sell you a coil than test the old. Usually I don't take them the engine to perform the test on, as it is in the trailer. Maybe for bass boats it is easier to see the engine. I just don't like carrying a 150 pound beast into the service desk.

          Can the coils and stuff be tested when sepreated from the engine in any way ?
          Dave Mason
          Just A Boat Racer

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Dave M View Post
            I forsee a new meter in my future, and maybe a portable weather station as well.

            Most dealers around here would rather sell you a coil than test the old. Usually I don't take them the engine to perform the test on, as it is in the trailer. Maybe for bass boats it is easier to see the engine. I just don't like carrying a 150 pound beast into the service desk.

            Can the coils and stuff be tested when sepreated from the engine in any way ?
            So thats why you SE/FE runs so good. You don't repair stuff you just throw on new parts. Your question about testing coils....On the black system there is an ahms test that can be done by checking ohms from the primary lead wire to ground. You should get a resistance reading of 0.1 +or- .05
            then you can test the secondary by conecting the black meter lead to the plug wire at the boot and the red lead to the primary wire. Reading should be 275+or-50 ohms.
            Remember though that resistance testing is just kind of a trouble shooting test there could still problem under a load.
            The Stevens CD-77 is a great tool for the newer style(black) ignition. I use it on a regular basis here at the marina. It comes with all the jumper wires you need for the plug style testing.
            I'm not too familiar with that old green ignition you are running. If you are interested I think we have a couple complete systems around that we took off and replaced with the black.
            I will have to look in the archives and see if I can find you some testing #'s for that system.
            Tell your mom and dad I said hello and have a merry Christmas.
            DOUG SCHULTZ--HERE FOR THE SUPPORT OF OUR SPORT

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            • #21
              coil

              Originally posted by Dave M View Post
              Can the coils and stuff be tested when sepreated from the engine in any way ?
              Yes, As was stated before, you can do the usal Resistans tests with an ohmmeter..the values for the "old style" coils is as follows...primary resistance ( low ohms scale): .100(+or-).05..........secondary resistance (high ohms scale): 1300(+or-)500....

              I have an old Mercotronic Ignition analizer that I can load a coil with volts/amps and check it fore output,leaks,and tempature breakdown, but this test is not somthing you would do at a race..

              If I had one cylinder not firing (no spark) on my FE motor, the first thing I would check would be to see if I had power "to that coil "(from the power pack) if I had power going in and none coming out ,well I'd replace the coil

              It would more than likely take me longer to find my meter than to do the actual test LOL !

              Hope this example helps...you can call me at work any time for more detals and info 707-878-2443.
              93-C




              ____________________________

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              • #22
                Lol!

                Originally posted by Dave M View Post
                I forsee a new meter in my future, and maybe a portable weather station as well.

                Most dealers around here would rather sell you a coil than test the old. Usually I don't take them the engine to perform the test on, as it is in the trailer. Maybe for bass boats it is easier to see the engine. I just don't like carrying a 150 pound beast into the service desk.

                Can the coils and stuff be tested when sepreated from the engine in any way ?

                I can picture that now............watching you tow your race boat into an OMC dealership to test the ignition system.............they will be like WTF is that???

                PS: you can test a coil as indicated, but really needs to be put on a coil tester, as they could test fine when cold..............yada yada yada......and sometimes it is eaasier to just rplace the coil............
                Daren

                ​DSH/750ccmh/850ccmh

                Team Darneille


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                • #23
                  What little I know

                  Dave, With out a manual in front of me this all I can say. Any testing to be done that requires measuring resistance can be done while the part is off the engine. If it is on the engine sometimes certain things might have to be disconnected from whatever, so you insulate it from other electrical components. Voltage checks will have to be done while the engine is either turned on (if it has a battery hooked up to it) or being turned over by the starter or roped over.......steve..22-R
                  Last edited by QUINAULTRACING; 12-22-2006, 09:44 AM. Reason: for correction

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Dave M View Post
                    I forsee a new meter in my future, and maybe a portable weather station as well.

                    Most dealers around here would rather sell you a coil than test the old. Usually I don't take them the engine to perform the test on, as it is in the trailer. Maybe for bass boats it is easier to see the engine. I just don't like carrying a 150 pound beast into the service desk.

                    Can the coils and stuff be tested when sepreated from the engine in any way ?
                    I found this info in a troubleshooting guide from CDI electronics.
                    This covers 3 cyl engines 1972-78
                    Stator resistance test
                    brown wire to brown/yellow wire aprox. 500 ohms
                    Stator DVA test
                    brown wire to brown/yellow wire while connedted at the power pack should be 150v or more.
                    Timer base resistance
                    test from black/white wire to white/black wire should be 10-20 ohms
                    Timer Base DVA test
                    1.Test from black/white to white/black connected at power pack 0.5v is required to fire the pack.
                    2.Test from black/white wire to engine ground with wires connected to power pack should be 150v or more. If the reading is low disconnect the trigger wire from the power pack and retest. If readings are acceptable this indicates the timer base may have an internal wiring problem.

                    Another thing that effects these engines is the air gap between the timerbase and the trigger magnets on the flywheel. If the OMC sensor gap tool is not availible you can adjust it by loosening the locating screws and sliding the sensors the crankshaft. Coat the face of the snesors with blueing or some kind of material like that. put the flywheel on with out the key and spin it a couple time then remove it. If the trigger magnets did not hit the sensor coils move the sensors out 0.005" and redue the flywheel test. repeat this until you get fire. Of course this is assuming all other ignition componets are good.

                    Coil Tests
                    From primary wire to ground resistance should be 0.2 to 1.0
                    from plug wire to ground resistace should be 200-400

                    Like I said these tests are from a trouble shooting guide from CDI electronics. CDI is a very reputable manufacturer of marine electronics.

                    Testing can be done with a regular VOA meter but requires a Direct Voltage Adapter.
                    When checking for Voltages I have found it best to install a stock flywheel and starter motor so engine can be crancked for extended periods of time.
                    DOUG SCHULTZ--HERE FOR THE SUPPORT OF OUR SPORT

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                    • #25
                      Thanks Again !!

                      This is good stuff, I have something to go from now on Ohms and what not. I never had that reference.

                      Coils are pretty cheap, so I usually started there when no fire, have a ton of old coils so it is easy for me to take 2 minutes and swap one out. Had a problem this year with the stator. Twice in over 30 years ever had one go bad, so I repleced everything but that and still had trouble. Finally thought I would try it, and she ran like a champ... well close to old Rotten Ralph, he still kicked my butt.

                      Thanks guys for all the info, this sure helps.
                      Dave Mason
                      Just A Boat Racer

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