Handy Tips

[PROPDOC]

I save and use plastic food containers for storage of nuts and bolts or for mixing up small batches of epoxy or paint. They also work well at the race site for draining your gear case into and then just snap the lid on for clean and proper disposal later. I like the ones that you get at the grocery store from the deli. They are made of a heavier plastic and stand up really well in the shop.

[boatracer69r]

I don't know if this is common knowledge or not, but when changing jets on your KA or KC carbs loosen them up with a small screwdriver and then using a toothpick pull them out. You can put them back in the same way. (just make sure you account for the gasket)

[Guest]

TIP 40....
When assembling crankcases or lower units I always use "extend time" epoxy, this allows extra time to get it right!

Additional, when I assemble crankcases I use a steel plate to represent the tower housing.

The steel plate is drilled for the mounting studs.

As I'm tightening the screws that holds the two case halves together I'm also tightening the nuts over the steel plate to aline the crankcase properly end to end.

[ZUL8TR]

ProHydroRacer thanks for the info very informative. The hard part to me as you suggest would be the epoxy removal. I assume you apply the epoxy as thin as possible to prevent any excessive clearances not designed into the engine like for the split crank case designs. You note epoxy on the bearing OD case as well I assume you have spun bearings in the past as a reason for this? Do you also epoxy the reed cage(s) as well?

ZUL8TR additional comments when rebuilding.....

Before I start epoxying the crankcase or lower unit together I make sure all internal metal parts (shafts, crank, bearing spacers etc.) are coated with a light oil film so the epoxy doesn't stick to it. Except for the bearing outside diameters.

Try to apply the epoxy in a even thin film coat over all of the surfaces. I do apply the epoxy to all bearing outside diameters and I would apply it to the reed cages as well.

Use the bugger sticks to get the epoxy into tight areas. Brushes never worked that well for me, I tried those small oiling or gluing brushes and the hairs would pullout.

I use epoxy for two reason for additional strength to hold the halves together, and in the case of the crankcase to prevent a lost of crankcase pressure.

Every new Konig race engine I ever bought had both the crankcase and lower unit epoxied together. If it was good enough for the German factory, and ZAK, I think it is a good idea for us.

I have seen some lower unit silicone together but I wouldn't do it that way, but that is me.

Even tho it is tough to remove epoxy I think it is the best way to rebuild a race engine.

When you go about scraping the epoxy off a surface, use a new sharp razor without a handle (single blade is best) the sharp end of the blade should be perpendicular or slightly leading in the pulling direction. Use a lot of downward pressure to scrape the old epoxy off, but be careful not to damage the aluminum surface. DON"T try to slice the epoxy off as in sharping a stick. You want to scrape away as in scraping a fine piece of wood. See....: http://www.rockler.com/bahco-cabinet-scrapers

[Guest]

TIP #41
I got a SUPER GOOD TIP today......
Lowes sells a Paint Roller by Whizz Applicators. It is a FLOCK Roller made for Ultra Smooth Surfaces, 4" wide. Great for putting Poly down fast and smooth. I have been using it for the last couple of days to put Poly varnish on vertical and horizontal surfaces, work faster than a Pad and as smooth! It also good for all paints and waterborne coatings. Roller refills #642483. Get some!

[Guest]

Tip #42
This week I had to paint on all sides 15 - 1" x 4", 5", & 6" wide x 10"-0 long boards. The wide portions where easy, I just laid them on every flat surfaces I had in the garage and outside, and used a 4" paint roller, fast work!
But I still needed to paint the edges of each board. I have a couple of metal saw horses with 2 x 4 wooden Top Rails. I drilled 7/16" holes on 11/2" centers almost thru the 2x4 Top Rails, across the full length. I inserted 7/16" wooden dowel rods cut to about 5" long into each hole. I stood each board on edge trapped between each set of dowels and painted the edge with a small brush.
Tip #43,
After painting each edge, I use a folded paper towel against each face of the board to remove any paint that might wanted to run down the face.