Handy Tips

[Shane_B]

When applying epoxy as a sealant, fill an atomizer spray bottle (not a regular spray bottle but one that puts out a fine mist) with denatured alcohol and spray ABOVE the epoxy (not directly onto epoxy) immediately after applying so the alcohol mist gently sets on the epoxy. The denatured alcohol will eliminate bubbles in epoxy and provide a smoother finish (i.e., less sanding)... NOTE: be sure to warm up wood with hair dryer prior to applying epoxy to help reduce bubbles forming in epoxy.

[Guest]

That is one I didn't know. Where does one get a atomizer spray bottle? Do you know Shane B, what to use to thin epoxy? I have some rotten window sills I would like to repair.

[Shane_B]

You can pick up an atomizer sprayer from a garden shop (used to mist leaves on indoor plants) or a beauty supply store (used to mist hair)... stole my from the wife (shhh!). West Systems website has list of thinners that may be used on their product and Will Smoot can provide list of thinners for System 3 products (he works for them).
Here's a link to atomizers on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/331171596890

[Guest]

11th TIP...
Years ago I was a Keller Hardware dealer. Keller made great hardware.
But if you want a super light boat rear lifting Handle use a couple of steel screen door Handles. They come in black and steel color. Repaint any color, they are super strong, very cheap, last for years and get you can them at ACE, or any home improvement store.

[Guest]

12th TIP....
Working on a race boat chine or sponson, need to get the stringers parallel to each other before applying the plywood.

I use a piece of 1/2" plywood x 11" long x 6 1/2" wide, to the top side I mount a 1" X 2" X 11" long piece of wood standing on edge. I use a couple of screws to hold in place. This is my handle.
To the bottom I wrap a 36 or 40 grit of piece of sandpaper bring the side to the top of the plywood. Staple the paper to the plywood top side. I find this tool is easier to use than a belt sander.
Put the sanding tool over both stringers and sand. The 36 grit cuts super fast.
If your stringer are farther apart than 11" use a longer piece of plywood and sand one side at a time.

[Shane_B]

I also found using a large double bastard file (real name, no joke) works really well. I also used your concept to ensure all my stringers at transom are flat/parallel prior to attaching bottom, used double thickness of 3/4" melamine 4" x 40" (added 1/2" ply on sides for handle/stiffness) and got some 4x48 sanding belts from Harbor Freight, cut and tacked to the frame, and sanded the stringers. Works great.

Harbor Freight love that place. As long as most of our tool comes from China already, might as well go there. Prices are better than most. You can also order on line. A couple year back, I ordered a vertical mill from them and got free shipment. to my door!

[T Chance]

I like to use a "horse rasp" (used on horse hooves and available at farm supply stores)

[Shane_B]

Another tip - instead of initially sanding the epoxy sealant, use an cabinet scraper first (also known as a English scraper). A sharp, burnished scraper will quickly provide a smooth finish - saves time and sandpaper. Available at Rockler: http://www.rockler.com/bahco-cabinet-scrapers

I like that TIP.
I think that might be better than what I have done in the past. I would use a plastic red scoring pad with water to get the waxy film off before sanding, scraping might be a lot quicker!

[Guest]

13th TIP...
A short piece of railroad track makes a great anvil!
But don't cut it from the main line!!
Cut the piece from discarded track.

[blueskyracer]

also great anchor for buoy..

[dcrummett]

Got one in my shop... use it all the time. My dad had one in his shop... samo samo...

[PROPDOC]

I have found that when working with West System epoxy, vinegar works best for removing the epoxy from your bare skin. Will probably work for other brands as well, try it.

Good TIP, but won't you smell like a pickle? I'll have to try that!
That TIP sure beats using acetone.

[PROPDOC]

Yes it is a little smelly but it is better on your hands than acetone and it works better too! Just be sure to wash with regular hand soap after the vinegar, lol......

[Guest]

14th TIP
Keep Records!!!
Write down all your boat and engine set-ups and keep in a 3 ring folder.
If it a first time taking something apart, take pictures so that you can put it back together the right way the first time.

[David Weaver]

Good tip Bill, but a 3 ring binder?? Welcome to the age of computers....use a spreadsheet, make graphs, run correlations, derive a formula to estimate performance based on past results....of course, I use my handy note pad.....

David, I think the computer is just a fad, paper will be here forever.
The life of the computer, will be like the history of wax recording drums, wire recording, vinyl records, large tape recording, 8 track, floppy disk. Paper been here for 1,000's of years and will be here for at least as long as we all are here. TIP #16

[Guest]

15th TIP......
Listen, watch, pay attention to an old racer.
You may actually learn something from their previous mistakes. Remember, they are not telling you to do something their way, they are only trying to stop you from making the same dumb mistakes they made.

[PROPDOC]

This one should be up at the top of the list.

[Stu Ford]

Regarding tips 14-15. There is a reason Mr. Wartinger has so many records. Have you seen his books of setup notes.

[glen wesanko]

Here's a handy tip. If a guy is selling you a propeller that "doesn't work on his boat" but will "probably be perfect" for your boat ....don't buy it

[dwhitford]

Not necessarily a good tip.

I had a Smith prop "from a Kamnic blank" (lots of rake), Pop told me, that did not work well on my O'Connor hydro in about 1970. I sold it to a guy in Montrose, PA. Anyway, Leigh Furnal ended up with it & won the Nationals with it a year later, I'm told.

[Guest]

17th TIP.....
Want your oil seals and "O" rings to last a real long time?
A thin coat of Anti-Seize on the wear surface will keep them like new for a much longer time! Life will increase 3 to 5 times.

[ZUL8TR]

Interesting tip, some Q's: Are you saying to apply the AS to the surface the seal lip rides on? What about AS to the seal lip as well? On the crank shaft seals in my Merc engine sliding them on to position would push the AS down into the engine toward the bearings, wouldn't that be a problem? Same slide on question with the Merc quicki A, B, C, D gear case drive shaft seal and the prop shaft seal in the water pump cartridge?

I would wipe the Anti-Seize on the rubber lip face of the oil seal or "O" ring. There is something in the Anti-seize that keeps the rubber from drying out and cracking, the stuff also slows drown the wear of the rubber. I've never had add problem to the bearing either in the engine or lower unit due to this stuff.

[Guest]

18th TIP....
A - If you are screwing a fastener into an aluminum tapped hole don't use a lockwasher behind the head, over time the lockwasher will pull the threads of the aluminum tapped hole out.
B - Use Anti-Seize on aluminum tapped holes before the fastener is threaded in. Just a tab in the hole will do. Less chance the threads in the aluminum will be pulled out and/or galled.
C - Use a Torque Wrench to seat the fastener.
D - Don't use pliers to turn the head of a screw. Pliers are used for holding! The proper tool is a open or box wrench, or socket. Adjustable wrench is for an amateur mechanic.
E - Don't reuse screws or nuts after dis-assembly. and if you must ....only if they are perfect.
F - Use nylon-insert hex locknuts with screws or studs.
G - Can't use nylon-insert hex locknuts then use Loctite.
H - Use a flat washer behind a screw head and under a nut, a steel washer will prevent damage or galling on an aluminum surface.

[Guest]

19th TIP...
A - Those credit card advertisements that comes in the mail all the time with the phoney plastic credit cards, makes great applicators for epoxy, Bondo, and body filler. Keep them in a small plastic sandwich bag and hang them on the wall.
B - Popsicle sticks also know as craft sticks (1,000s in a box) make great miny stirrers for epoxy, Bondo, and body filer.
C - Need a large stirrer for paint? I use shim sticks. About 25 in a package.
D - Bugger sticks (you might know them as cotton swabs) are great for get chips out of small tapped holes.
E - Bugger sticks are also great for applying epoxy in tight areas.
G - Those steel handle oil brushes, are great for cleaning up in tight places, and throw away brush for applying paint or epoxy.

[Guest]

20th TIP again from my buddy ZAK.....
Don't use WD-40 on ball and roller bearings!
WD-40 is made with sulfur, that is not good for the bearings.
ZAK found this important information after discussion with an Army weapon engineer. They had made a number of test to prove it so.
At the time ZAK didn't share this bit of info, because he was in the business of rebuilding engines.

[Shane_B]

In the Army it is a NO NO to use WD on wpns as it is know to cause metal failure in breeches/barrels... only approved cleaner for US Army small arms is CLP (Breakfree). However, a GREAT CLP (cleaner/lubricant/protectant) is Ballistol - a water soluable, very environmental friendly CLP that has been around since 1904 - created and used by the Imperial German Army for their small arms (Germans know their stuff on weapons). Ballistol is also great to use on marine equipment. Can get a 16 oz non-aersol can of it for about $17.50 with free shipping from Amazon.