help with magneto/points setup on y80

[ZUL8TR]

I am setting up the imagneto and points on the y80 and need some help. I am familiar with setting the point gap (per manual at .012" to .016" range) and the piston BTDC position for max advance at 0.18" to 0.20" range per manual (I do not have the special tool noted for setting the piston position for max advance). This is for a hydro set up.

Questions:

1) Please provide a recommendation on point setting in the stated range - should I use .012" or .016" or average .014" or does it matter?

2) As a start prior to testing is the 0.20" BTDC for 7000 rpm a good place to start for max advance?

3) I do not have an ignition point buzzer tester as shown in the manual but do have a digital VOM and thought I could use the continuity section (Ohms) to determine when the points just open for the max advance setting and would like to know where to place the meter probes on the points to determine this. No matter where I probe on the points and adjacent area with the points open I get a completed circuit on the meter (0 ohms).

Your comments appreciated.

[jeff55v]

A little help...

Did you remember to disconect the condensers before doing the Ohm meter thing?
I think I bought my dial indicator with spark plug hole adapter at a local discount tool place. It's an extra long travel model with two different size spark plug hole adapters all in a little padded case. It's been a few years, but maybe you can still find one like it around your area.

If I remember right, you want to set the points at exactly 180 degrees apart from one another. So, the second set of points might be a little different from the first set. That's where you really need the dial indicator and ohm meter.

Hope this helps.

[kws]

if you a never show an open on the points, then the pivot point on the points are shorted there should be 2 fiber washers and a fiber bushing so that they do not short out untill the points close OR you have a bad condenser. Jeff is right yo u need to check with the condenser out of the circuit

[ebss011]

Buzz Box

Is anyone selling good buzz boxes?

[Rich Oliver]

Aircraft Spruce...Magneto Synchronizer model E50.Its bullit proof,top quality.I'am always suprised the batteries aren't dead.

[ZUL8TR]

Thanks guys. I did not disconnect the condenser>>>

but will do that. As far as there being a problem with the system there is spark to the plugs with mag rotation and the engine does start. This is just a case of learning how to do the points opening measuring. Is the ohm deal I am attempting to do reasonable or do I need to get the buzzer or perhaps use a light on a small DC battery?

Thanks again.

[ZUL8TR]

E50 mag synchronizer

Aircraft Spruce...Magneto Synchronizer model E50.Its bullit proof,top quality.I'am always suprised the batteries aren't dead.

Where did you get the E50?

Thanks

[Rich Oliver]

Aircraft Spruce www.aircraftspruce.com

[Jack Stotts]

I use a light and do not disconnect the condencer. You have to watch the light closely as it stays lit the entire time. You must watch for it to dim as the points open (very slight flicker). You can buy a circuit tester at most hardware store for less than $5.00 and it will have an internal battery.

[Team B&H]

You can build everything you need for less than $30 for an excellent timing system. Get a 1 inch travel dial indicator from Harbor Freight- under $20, an old spark plug, an ordinary hardware store doorbell buzzer, a 6 volt dry cell battery plus some wires, alligator clips amd some epoxy.

Bust out the porcelain from the spark plug and fill the cavity with epoxy. After it has cures, drill it so the dial indicator fits tightly in it and then add a couple set screws to fasten it all together.

Make a circuit with the battery and the doorbell buzzer and hook the leads from that to your kill switch wires. Leave the condensers and points all hooked up and you can easily hear when either set of points opens or closes. I've used the same battery and buzzer for at least 10 years.

[ZUL8TR]

Re: Jack Stotts>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>.

I use a light and do not disconnect the condencer. You have to watch the light closely as it stays lit the entire time. You must watch for it to dim as the points open (very slight flicker). You can buy a circuit tester at most hardware store for less than $5.00 and it will have an internal battery.

Where are you connecting the probes of the circuit tester?

Are you saying that the tester light stays on but just dims as the points open?

Will the tester light also slighty flicker after the points are full open?

Thanks

[Jack Stotts]

I put one probe on the point body where it interfaces with the surface of the mounting plate and the other clipped to the wire connector where the condenser and kill switch are atached. The light will be on all the time but will dim as the points open and will stay dim while open but the staying dim is hard to see. That is not important. What you want to do is see the flicker or dimming point. I set the gap at .012 on both points then adjust the timing on the top cylinder by moving the the mag plate. When set and checked, I lock it down and adjust the bottom cylinder by adjusting the gap on it's points until the timing on that cylinder is set and checked.

[ZUL8TR]

Jack I will try that method. Any idea why the tester light stays on when suposedly the circuit is interupted when the points break open? Using my ohm meter as a continuity tester and probing tha same locations you did failed because the needle was always 0 ohms for complete circuit?

Thanks a lot