I have a Mark 30H and would like to put an electric starter on it. Is it possible? It is on a B&H hydro. I am not a racer and have it for fun. Without a crew, I can't get it started without getting water in the boat. HELP
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Mark 30H
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I have one on my 55 H-1 easy - use a stock non charging fly wheel with ring gear and a NMH battery = simple Kohl Hersey starter button- fit in the hole in the pan - no mods needed .
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or u could do what I did one year to help in starting my 750MR. [ ya I put a cut down mk 58 recoil on a racing motor, my polish fix ]. check the length of the recoil rope or cable. [ some where fairly long ]. if long enough install a opened up eye hook to the inside of the cockpit far enough up to avoid the water over the back thingy . use the eye hook to keep the recoil rope from going all the way back to the motor.[ once started ] ** pre start the motor on a dolly so u don't have to do the choke thing. I got laughed at for this but it did resolve the one person issue . then I found a friend and life was good. My 1/2 blonde thing has nothing to do with my inability to sometimes function in a manner some might consider normal and racing Mod has helped silence most of the voices in my head [ not all of them ]. [ de bait able ] **some of this is BS but most is true.**Last edited by dil/viller; 03-18-2018, 04:11 AM.
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-many of the early DSH racers would tie a knot about a foot or so down from the end of the starter cord, so that they could stay forward while cranking. Looked 'sloppy' hanging loose back there. The situation got worse with the shorter transom on the 44XS. , but by then, we all had 'lifters' .Last edited by bh/; 03-18-2018, 08:40 AM.
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Seems to me that the second transom would be the best option. My only question is, where the motor is attached, do I just start ahead of it? The sides would be easy but I don't understand the back. I appreciate your help.
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A second transom seems like over-kill, unnecessarily heavy. Why not just a self-draining motor-well like production pleasure craft have had for the last 70 years or so? Not only does it catch water that slops over the transom, but also any fuel that might run out of the carbs. Make it out of ordinary boat plywood, 1/8 inch should do if you don't bang into it. Slant the bottom of it slightly downhill toward the transom, meeting it just below your clamp handles and the drainholes there. Don't forget to leave enough space for your hands to turn the clamp handles. There are rubber one-way drainhole gizmos that keep water from running in, available at any marina.
Light, simple, effective, . . . I can think of a raceboat or two that might have benefitted from having a self-draining motor-well.Last edited by Smitty; 03-22-2018, 09:01 AM.
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Similar, but not quite---this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zo65Wq61zzg
vs this---
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=83Z-hRJLWDE
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It was surprisingly hard to find a good photo to show a motorwell ahead of the transom; this is about the best I could come up with, to give the general idea. Note that the motorwell is in this case a lot higher than the transom. Select the third and fourth photos and click on them to enlarge. Meanwhile, sorry, bh/, I should have guessed you were talking about a motorwell (or whatever is the best term for it).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/18-Dunphy-B...VahzQt&vxp=mtr
I wonder if any of the alky owners has ever done one of these. Going back a few decades, some of the C/D/F hydros with their big heavy engines might have been improved with a self-draining motorwell. Their drivers had to be a little careful how they slowed the boat and then shut off the engine when approaching the beach after a heat because after shutoff they could have a big following wave that could run into the lower pipe(s) if not the boat itself. With most hydros, you didn't move back in the boat until that following wave had passed under the boat, if I recall correctly.Last edited by Smitty; 03-26-2018, 01:58 PM.
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