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Indirect or direct steering

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  • Indirect or direct steering

    This is hardly a deep technical topic, but somebody was talking about it the other day. Back in the late Sixties in Reg. 10, primarily or wholly in the smaller Stock classes, most guys ran "indirect steering," meaning they had the usual pulleys clipped to either end of the steering bar, with the steering cable clamped to each side of the cockpit a couple of feet forward of the transom. But a few preferred "direct" steering, with the steering cable clamped at the ends of the steering bar, no pulleys. Direct steering was quicker, some thought too quick, but took more right arm effort/strength. I imagine everybody already knew all this.

    So what's the modern thinking on this?

    Just curious,
    --Smitty




  • #2
    I personally ran direct steering only... for sure because it was quicker.
    sigpic

    Dean F. Hobart



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    • #3
      Direct steering is fine with small motors that have little or no torque steer. When you have more horsepower and can swing bigger props the motor has much more of a tendency to want to turn itself. The main drawback to indirect is that you have to turn the wheel further to round the turns requiring you to let go and regrab the wheel at some point during the turn. Of course we solve that problem by using a 5 inch hub rather than the old 3.5 inch that used to be the only hub available.

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      • #4
        You also have remember in the 50's and 60's we run roll up runabouts so they turned a lot differently.

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        • #5
          In Sept. 1974 I switched the steering on my 25SSH from indirect (also on my CSH) to direct. I went into the first turn and over steered and started to spin out so when I cranked it to the right, of course, I over steered again. I got thrown out of the left side of the boat and got run over by my own boat! Took a prop to my left knee and spent the next eight weeks in a full leg cast because I cut a tendon. While in the hospital, I ordered two new Bezoats hydro's for the next year. Now I'm 60 yrs. old and I can't kneel down any more.

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          • #6
            Looks like it's still considered an option. Interesting about the big hubs, Pops; I never thought of that one. I ended up with direct steering on my BSH, but don't think I tried it in AOH. My little old A Konig didn't have any more torque-steer, but it was maybe 13-15mph faster (on a good day). None of mattered much in the end, because I could never make two decent starts in a row. Something inadequate about my depth perception/timing, I think, plus being too dumb to work out other solutions. But it was fun.



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            • #7
              Back when I raced in the 70's I ran indirect in 25ssh and 20ssh with the small hub wheel. Didn't know any better. One good feature with indirect it was easy to adjust steer tension cable for these 2 classes with the single wrap tie backs. Now at AOMCI meets with the same hydro (Avatar) and engines I run direct, and like it better.
              "Keep Move'n" life is catching up!
              No man's life, liberty or property are safe while the legislature is in session.

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              • #8
                My solution to adjust the steering cable tension was to put sail boat stainless steel turn buckles on the end of the cable with a stainless steel shackle to the steering bar, on both sides. I could adjust the tension to be perfect.
                sigpic

                Dean F. Hobart



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                • ZUL8TR
                  ZUL8TR commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Now that is coincidental, now I recall after you mentioned it. When I started in 73 I ran 25ssh and no other engine was used so adjustment wasn't an issue. Then in 78 the Y80 came out and I started that class. Back then there were a lot of eliminations for 25ss and there wasn't a lot of time to switch engines from 25 to 20 and adjust things. I soon realized that I needed a better quicker way to adjust rather that the Keller tie backs. So I used the very SS turnbuckle you note but only on the starboard side. So only needed to adjust one side, didn't care if wheel was not centered in the straight a way, but it was quick.

              • #9
                ZUL8TR,

                Cool... I also used double nuts to "lock" the adjustments.... And also zip ties as a secondary safety. I didn't want them to loosen up.
                sigpic

                Dean F. Hobart



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