How would you do this?

[Ram4x4]

So here's the scenario:

You already have your boat with the ubiquitous wrap around plexiglass cockpit nose, but you want to change it to one similar to the one in the attached picture. How would you go about making the cowling and attaching it to your boat?

[Harold8]

Send it to Bob O'Connor, lol!

[Ram4x4]

DIY is also a requirement :-)

[DeanFHobart]

So here's the scenario:

You already have your boat with the ubiquitous wrap around plexiglass cockpit nose, but you want to change it to one similar to the one in the attached picture. How would you go about making the cowling and attaching it to your boat?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]n454718[/ATTACH]

Is the one in the picture made from fiberglass or plywood? If it plywood, then get a pattern and make it from 1/16" plywood. On the deck perimeter, attach a "rim" or whatever you might call it to attach the plywood cowl. 1/16" plywood bends very easily.

[Ram4x4]

Would 1/16" ply be strong enough, or would it require some stringers or something?

My first thought was to use foam, carve/sand it to shape, then cover it with a couple layers of fiberglass, then cut out the foam. I guess I cold even leave some of the foam in it. It would provide some rigidity and flotation in the event the boat gets flipped or something.

Downside to that is, the hard foam is pricey. I wonder if that pink or blue foam board from Home Depot would work.

[johnsonm50]

Would 1/16" ply be strong enough, or would it require some stringers or something?

My first thought was to use foam, carve/sand it to shape, then cover it with a couple layers of fiberglass, then cut out the foam. I guess I cold even leave some of the foam in it. It would provide some rigidity and flotation in the event the boat gets flipped or something.

Downside to that is, the hard foam is pricey. I wonder if that pink or blue foam board from Home Depot would work.

A melt test to start with, will resin melt the blue or pink foam? Ply, 1/16 would probably be strong enough, 1/8 definitely, Id think ply a better option. The O'conner's do have a good look but I also like the typical Runnecraft cowl lexan combination.

[Art K]

If it does not make it faster. Why do it ? Spend the money on speed.
Art K

[DeanFHobart]

Would 1/16" ply be strong enough, or would it require some stringers or something?

My first thought was to use foam, carve/sand it to shape, then cover it with a couple layers of fiberglass, then cut out the foam. I guess I cold even leave some of the foam in it. It would provide some rigidity and flotation in the event the boat gets flipped or something.

Downside to that is, the hard foam is pricey. I wonder if that pink or blue foam board from Home Depot would work.

1/16" will be strong enough. Carving foam would be difficult to make it symmetrical on both sides without exact templates.

The post about... Will it make it faster is also valid. Doing this might add weight. A typical clear windshield is not very heavy.

Publish a picture of your current boat.

Good luck in whatever you decide.

[Ram4x4]

I have two primary reasons for actually wanting a little more weight on the front. My boat is a B&H design and the front is extremely light. With just the engine mounted and it floating in the water (without me in it), the sponsons don't even touch the water. It does have an adjustable transom, so there is another heavy slab of wood bolted onto the main transom which also contributes to that issue. I do plan to remove that slab of extra wood and mount the engine to the main transom. This will move the engine a little closer as it currently has quite a bit of set back as a result. This should lower the rotational moment and lower the tendency for the front to want to fly so much when under power.

I also think a long nose like that will decrease some of the induced lift of the airfoil shape to help keep the nose down.

When I initially purchased the boat, a second dashboard had been installed rearward of the main one which required me to practically sit on the steering wheel to keep the front down. I have already removed that secondary dash and the steering is now forward on the original. This has helped a lot when it comes to cornering (I can actually get the turn fin set in the water now), but it still wants to fly too high when I get in a comfortable position on the straights. I really have to manage my position in the boat a lot depending on wind and waves and such to the point it gets scary.

[hoosier]

Don't change anything , it's very entertaining to watch you drive that thing like a circus monkey on acid !

[Ram4x4]

Gee, thanks Jeff! Circus monkey on acid was not my intended image...I was thinking more along the lines a drunk monkey and a greased football, but well....

But yeah, either one of those is definitely not the act I'm trying to pull off... ;-P

[1100-one]

I'm by no means a boat builder. But changing the cowl can stir up more issues afterwards I'm sure. Props with more rake will add lift not sure what your testing with. Testing with set up, different props etc would be were I would start. Also I'm sure you know as well try tucking motor in. Your getting great advice I just wld hate to see you make a change unless you exhausted all testing etc and I would certainly continue as you are to ask more before changing. Just my 2 cents. Years ago we added little sand bags up front or added lead plates to transom whatever we needed. Good luck

[ZUL8TR]

I agree on the 1/16" (that will 1.5mm that is available ) or 5/64 " (or the 2 mm available) Ocume ply once epoxied on both sides the arc and glued in place of the nose will be very strong. Once you get the shape of the pieces that can be patterned with light poster material and done in wood and check the fit you can put epoxy on the underside to seal it. It looks like 1/2 of the nose would be installed at a time. You would need some under arc supports at 90 to the boat axis as well a stringer in the middle and perimeter wood at the deck intersection of the nose to attach the ply to. You will need some inventive clamping.

Here are 1.5mm and 2mm for Ocume for arching

http://www.worldpanel.com/_p/prd2/33...-thin-plywoods

Are you sure you want to do this it is not for the casual woodworker ? Show us a pic of your boat.

[26ZG4Hamilton]

Would something like this help?

[Ram4x4]

That would indeed! If the length and width are close. Where did you get that, or how did you make it?

[Tim Weber]

Don't mess with it. You are opening a can of worms.

I would change boats before taking on a cowel.

It will be a huge PIA.

Work on your set ups.

Tim