Hydro Rigging= Adding weight

[mercsami]

I now have the steering rigging done,now on to adding weight. I am estimating I will have to add 40 lbs. of lead to the hydro to make the weight limit. I have lead bars,1in.x4in.x8in.,at about 13 lbs.each. My question is, where do I start placing the bars. I realize I will probably have to adjust them,to keep proper boat trim, but where do I start placing them?

[Guest]

I wouldn't put them any where I could get hit in the head with them in a crash! Good luck.

[Jack Stotts]

I'd start out by placing the weights under your knee pad at a point where your center of gravity is when going down the straightaway. Fasten securely to the floor board.

[mercsami]

ProHydroRacer,I knew they had to be bolted down, just wanted to know where to start placing them,then moving them as needed and refastening.

[Shane_B]

I was going to say start drinking beer - heffeweissen will pack on the weight for you...
But weight placement is dependent on the boat (how it rides) - I've seen folks put lead under their pads (beneath knees) and others bolt lead onto their transoms (low for CG). I use lead shot in bits of bicycle tubes (5 and 10 lb increments to adjust as necessary), you can get reclaimed lead shot from a local trap or skeet range. I have a bag made of heavy duty nylon cloth reinforced with nylon webbing and nylon cinch straps bolted low on the inside of my transom for hold the lead shot filled tubes - easy to adjust the weight and securely retains the weight (cinch straps prevent any slippage) during runs and in the event of a flip. My boat runs better with add'l wt in rear during straights - can adjust with my body wt forward as necessary) - Again, placement of wt in each boat is different.

[Smitty]

Just don't put the lead bars where their inertia, from the pounding of the boat, might beat a gluejoint apart (like bottom from stringers, or stringers from ribs).

And if you cast lead in custom shapes, do it outdoors and stand upwind. I went to the family home of a neighbor who, like me in 1967, was a young third-year racer. He said, "Come on in to the kitchen; I'm casting lead on the stove!" From the fumes I could already smell when he opened the front door, it's amazing his whole family didn't suffer brain damage!!

Forty pounds, wow! However, I must currently be carrying 40lbs of lead in my butt!!

[Fastjack]

I have found that sheet lead for flashing works well- As the kid grew we could take a sheet off the stack - I had a vinal sleeve made to hold the lead under his knee pad .

[fishinworm]

mercsami you don't have to use lead.. you can custom cut steel plates and screw them to the bottom wherever you want so they fit tight or you can recast your lead into some wooden forms you make so it will fit your boat ,or you could make ten pounders with sand and innertubes from wheelbarrow tires also don't forget to check your weight with everything on and everything wet unless your out front u will be soaked....

[mercsami]

Thanks, Guys. Really good information. I am going to have to start getting some actual weights on the equipment and driver, I have just been estimating the weight. Sounds like I might not have to add as much weight as first thought.

[ram95]

Coupla Whoppers, large fries, and a shake works.

[Guest]

At one time I needed to add weight and keep it in place. I did this with lead shot but steel will work great also. Weigh out what you expect to add to the boat and try to stay a few pound under your target. I then mix west system with their structural filler until it is like heavy cream, Then add the shot and mix well. I like the weight composite that was just made bonded to the inside of the bottom plywood so there isn't any load on the stringer to bottom joint. You can make a dam with wood blocks covered with wax paper to keep the material in place. I have always placed the weigh in the transom area and fill no higher then the stringers but other locations would also work well with this technique.

Alan