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In rigging my[new to me] hydro,I have a question about the steering cables. Using Indirect steering, when I turn the wheel hard to right or left, the steering cables get a little loose. I realize I would not be turning the wheel this far when running. Any insight welcomed.
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Steering works best when the cable attachment points are on the centerline of the motor pivot, and 180 degrees from each other. -
What kind of steering bar do you have? Let's see a pic,Originally posted by mercsami View Post
Do you have teardrop shape loop lock cable backs? Easy to adjust cable tension if you do. If you don't have this type cable back get some.
I do it with the engine tilted up and adjust the cables by first guess, then when engine is dropped cables will tension up. Then do the turney-feely with the wheel left to center and right. Should feel nice and tight but not so tight that it is difficult to turn wheel, personal preference here but too loose is bad, adjust as needed. Also make sure the cables around the steering drum are not overlapping each other as you turn. To organize these I hold the ends of each cable at the rear of the boat and quickly pull them for hard left and hard right turn, then clip them on the steer bar. During adjustment you decide if you want the wheel spokes centered going straight, adjust each side to fix . Once adjusted use 2 cable clamps at each termination tie back, safety here.
Note that changing engine height and prop shaft angle affects steering tightness, you decide if adj needed when you change engine settings by feel of the wheel and tension in the cable ."Keep Move'n" life is catching up!
No man's life, liberty or property are safe while the legislature is in session.Comment
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Use "Sail Boat Rigging Turn-Buckles"..... Stainless (5/16").... on both sides.... Between the steering bar and tie backs. That way you can "Tune" the tension to exactly what you want.... No guessing. There are several types. And, Lock Wire them when you have them "Tuned"... So they don't loosen up. You might have to do this every time you set the boat up.Originally posted by mercsami View Post
Good Luck...........................................sigpic
Dean F. Hobart
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While I am setting my steering cables this is how I do it...
I leave the cables loose while I set up every thing else, height, kick-out, etc. then while standing at the back of the boat I check to see that I am centered in the steering hub by pulling the cables back and forth while counting the revolutions of the steering wheel. I then put together all the tie-backs and clamps and tighten one side. Then, I turn the motor to the slack spot and tighten the cable on the other side. Then turning the wheel back and forth through the stiff spot, using the tie-back I set the cables to the desired tension.
I have seen that some guys like a LOT of tension, I like mine a little loose. Tighter is safer.
Lastly I have seen steering hubs with a bunch of cable on them, you just don't need all that extra cable. I have found that about twice around per direction is plenty and much more easy to manage.
OK, one last thing, if you feel the need to "clock" your steering wheel, put the largest open part between 7:00 and 3:00
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Get/make a steering bar with this geometry and you'll solve the loosening problem. Depending on how your towerhousing pivots, you might find that having a steering bar with the ends bent upward a couple of inches will help the cables come tight when you lower the towerhousing, as "ZUL8YR" describes. Dean's turnbuckles will make set-up quicker and easier.Originally posted by ProHydroRacer
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Great information from all you guys. I now understand why my cables get loose when I turn hard right or left. I need to fine tune my steering bar set up, the geometry is wrong.I will also use some of the fine tune suggestions mentioned here.Comment
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Don't know what engine you have but BTM makes a nice steering bar if you are using one of the engines in the link? But if not, do the geometry like ProHydroRacer notes above in his post. The pivot he mentions for the location of the cable clip on points is the vertical left right rotation pivot center not the up and down pivot center at the front of the clamp bracket.Originally posted by mercsami View Post
http://www.btmco.com/Steering_Bars.html
"Keep Move'n" life is catching up!
No man's life, liberty or property are safe while the legislature is in session.Comment
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After my last post, I bolted a long arm steering bar to the motor. I lined up a straight edge with the motor pivot point,equal distance from the bar ends, I now had a mark on both sides of the bar. Drilled my cable attachment holes, bolted everything back together. No more loose cables when turning the wheel hard right or left.The Geometry is now correct. Thanks to everyone for your help.Comment
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Nice work lets see a picOriginally posted by mercsami View Post"Keep Move'n" life is catching up!
No man's life, liberty or property are safe while the legislature is in session.Comment
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Good reading too. Ive found the only time direct was a problem was when going slow, trying to maneuver near shore, once going it's cool. The spread difference between the coaming pulleys & steering bar width can mess with the 180 apart thing a little but unless that is a big difference won't likely matter.
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