Vacuum Pressing

[Dave M]

No On Pump

Don't get that one. I can let you look at mine and I am betting you can piece one together from TSC for a whole lot less than I paid for it years and years ago. If you only need it once for this transom deal, just borrow mine. No sense in investing for that.

As for your thickness results, it depends on how you wet it out. But you are talking micro millimeters differences. We can chat sometime. (the answer in your thickness guess is in the material descripton)

Dave
269-420-1118

[Raymond]

For bagging, ... I get my stuff from here. http://www.cstsales.com/vacuum_bag.h...FQLZQgodgUgA6Q

If you scroll the site, ... they will have everything you'll need and the prices are good.

For a vacuum pump, ... Gast is the only ones I use. Similar to these, ... oil-less and continual run. Any of these will work.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=gast&c...d=442741603297

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gast-DOA-P10...item1c2f894cdc

Pumps like the ones I listed (not mine, nor do I know the people) are made for continual running so you don't need reservoir tanks, switches and such. Just the pump, line and bag fitting if you chose to use one. Also, do yourself a favor, get the mini quick disconnects for the vacuum line, ... you wont regret it!

Remember, when it come to vacuum bagging set-ups, ... use the K.I.S.S. formula. To many people get frustrated with complicated systems.

Regards
Bill

Thanks Bill,

That site looks like another fantastic resource.

[Raymond]

Don't get that one. I can let you look at mine and I am betting you can piece one together from TSC for a whole lot less than I paid for it years and years ago. If you only need it once for this transom deal, just borrow mine. No sense in investing for that.

As for your thickness results, it depends on how you wet it out. But you are talking micro millimeters differences. We can chat sometime. (the answer in your thickness guess is in the material descripton)

Dave
269-420-1118

Thanks Dave,

Ok, I will not. Thanks for the offer of the loan but I am not only interested in learning the skill but also bringing the capability to my garage. I will give you a call tomorrow if that is ok to chat. Yes, I now see the thickness of the fabric is called out in some of the product descriptions.

Raymond

[Smiley]

Having built a Lancair 360 airplane, I have a fair amount of experience with fiberglass, carbon fiber layups. Bagging is not necessary if you want strong but light layups. Here is the process.


TOOLS NEEDED

cloth cutter like a roller pizza cutter from your local sewing materials store ie Joannes Fabrics.

1 inch throw away paint brushes cut the bristles so only about 3/4 inch remains.

tongue depressers, cut one end square for mixing and application of epoxy and or epoxy/flox mixture.

Sissors

buy a 4 inch paint roller
put a 4 inch piece of pvc pipe over the roller you now have a smooth roller

plastic spreaders used for applying bondo and autobody filler from local automotive paint supplier.

PROCEDURE

use a flat horizontal surface ie glass or plastic surface.
Lay down a 3 mil plastic sheet.
Lay out your fiberglass, graphite material (oversized for the application)
start out with one or two layers (bids)
use room temperature slow curing epoxy.
poor the epoxy over the material;
spread it out with the spreaders and make sure the epoxy is absorbed into the fibers
use the prepared paint brush to stipple out any air bubbles

Two options

option one: lay down an ironed smooth layer of dacron cloth, no seams no wrinkles then a final layer of 2-3 mil plastic sheet OR

option two omit the dacron.

Use the roller to roll out excess epoxy from the center of the material to the edges being careful to avoid squeezing out all the epoxy and creating a dry situation. The objective is to have about a 50-50 weight ratio of material to epoxy.

Cut the material with the pizza cutter to size.

wet the receiving surface with epoxy
carefully pick up the entire piece of material and lay it along one edge of the receiving surface and peel away the inside plastic sheet as you lay the material onto the receiveing surface. The outer plastic surface helps to hold the shape of the material. After you are satisfied with the application. Use the roller and spreaders to assist in removing air bubbles and adhering the application to the surface, remove the outer plastic sheet when satisfied.

Use the stiff brush to stipple out any air bubbles if necessary and or use a pin.

The dacron covered application is removed when cured leaving a textured surface readily sandable, clean and primer ready.

If you did not apply dacron the surface may be uneven and shiny and dull in spots; but you can opt for a cloth textured surface by applying paper towels evenly across the surface, use the 4 inch roller and lightly roll off any excess epoxy on the surface. The objective is to observe a gloss free mat surface when seen at an angle to the light. This has an attractive appeal on cockpit sides, is very strong and you save the weight of excess epoxy above the weave.


Smiley