Set Up Questions

[BillCNC]

Thanks to all who responded, ...

So,

1). Don't go out alone, ...
2). Tie the motor down, ... ???
3). Still unsure about direct steering or not. Seems their are conflicting responses, ...


Also, ... can a couple of you guys post or send me a couple pictures of how and what you guys used to attach the throttle cable to the boat, and your steering setups? As the old saying goes, ... a picture is worth a thousand words.

Again everyone, ... thanks for your responses as I have no clue as to what I am doing here, ... but I am VERY mechanically inclined.

Regards
Bill

[immulmen]

Thanks to all who responded, ...

So,

1). Don't go out alone, ...
2). Tie the motor down, ... ???
3). Still unsure about direct steering or not. Seems their are conflicting responses, ...


Also, ... can a couple of you guys post or send me a couple pictures of how and what you guys used to attach the throttle cable to the boat, and your steering setups? As the old saying goes, ... a picture is worth a thousand words.

Again everyone, ... thanks for your responses as I have no clue as to what I am doing here, ... but I am VERY mechanically inclined.

Regards
Bill

#1 correct with at least a helmet and life jacket on.
#2 See the rope around the mid section of the photo. It needs to be somewhat tight.
#3 If your steering hub is around 3 inches go direct, if it is around 5 inches use pulleys and go back to the the side of the boat.
If possible go to a race and ask questions. Bring the boat if you can. A lot of racers would be willing to help, [They will also try to get you on the water with them]
Chris

[BillCNC]

Chris,

Thanks for the picture, it really helps. I still have a couple of questions if you don't mind.

What is the tie down made from, just nylon rope or similar?
Also, are the forces that lift the motor from the drag caused by the prop when slowing down?
Do you have it tied to two eye screws on your transom?
Also, Is your throttle cable mounted or just hanging on the outside?

Thanks Again
Bill

[ZUL8TR]

setup

For tie down get 2 closed (not just bent over) loop eye bolts with about 5/16" diameter threaded portion x length needed for thru the transom and bolt with flat washers on the inside of the transom. Stainless is preferred.

Place the eye bolts a couple inches below the sharp curve in the motor lower unit as in the picture and each one off the transom centerline about 6".

For tie down rope use 1/4" braided nylon or similar strong rope. With engine in a turning position securely tie to one eye bolt and wrap over the lower unit to the other eye bolt and back to the first eye bolt pulling very tight as you wrap and tie off secure but so it can be easily removed.

The outboard engine is tied down to hold it tight against the transom because at high speed the trust against the transom is not that great with these efficient high speed light boats. Thus if not secured the engine will bounce somewhat and upset the angle setting of the engine which needs to stay fixed for predictable boat angle operation.

The bad part of tie down is if you hit something big in the water there could be serious damage to the lower unit. Note that for your use at lower speeds the thrust against the transom will be greater with minimal engine bounce and result in ok general operation. You might consider tie down for serious speed setup.

Get used to the boat going 40 to 50 mph and then go further with set up.

[kampenracing]

Tie down

Tying down the engine is a safety item. If you don't you may hit something and the engine could swing up into the cockpit with you with a spinning prop on it. I would never run without the engine tied down!!!!!!

[BillCNC]

Hey, thanks guy's, ... Now looking at the lower unit, I see were the aluminum was polished from a rope. I should be able to get the locations of the eye bolts from the wear marks.

More questions,

Boat Carts, ...

I have searched on this forum and others about boat carts, and have seen some pictures, are these homemade or are they bought. The only ones I have seen for sale are for canoes and such (google). I have no problems making one, I just wanted to know if they are made, or bought or both. Are they just built from square steel tubing, like 1.25" with a .062" wall? Weld like a 5/8" bolt for an axle or something on those lines and a wheel borrow for tires, maybe filled 1/4 of the way with sand?

Prop, ...

The 102 came with the brass 2 bladed prop. with the number 41 stamped on both sides of the hub. One side also has an inverted omega sign with a 3 next to it. What is the meaning of this number?

Thanks Again
Bill

[ZUL8TR]

setup

Don't know what the prop numbers mean but that is the prop used in Japan for their paramutual boat racing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OeHjpdlbh3o


Do you have the original metric prop shaft in the engine? These are replaced with 9/16" diameter shafts so more props are available for use. If you use this Japan prop it needs to be run deeper in the water because of the reduced pitch it has thus speeds will be much lower than these engines used in USA racing setup.

The boat carts are usually home made but there are guys that make them for others. Do a search on this site. Mine is alum square 1/8" wall welded with an alum wheel axel. It comes apart for easy packing.

[doc 35-0]

I like indirect steering. It cost more because you have to have really good pullies made for racing. It give you a little more forgiveness if the boat would go horizontal.

[BillCNC]

Don't know what the prop numbers mean but that is the prop used in Japan for their paramutual boat racing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OeHjpdlbh3o


Do you have the original metric prop shaft in the engine? These are replaced with 9/16" diameter shafts so more props are available for use. If you use this Japan prop it needs to be run deeper in the water because of the reduced pitch it has thus speeds will be much lower than these engines used in USA racing setup.

The boat carts are usually home made but there are guys that make them for others. Do a search on this site. Mine is alum square 1/8" wall welded with an alum wheel axel. It comes apart for easy packing.

ZUL8TR,

Yes, I have the stock metric shaft. I talked with Sorensen about the shaft and he told me that the only advantage to that shaft would be ONLY for a larger selection of props. He also said that I could put an insert in the other props and the 6/16 prop is not any stronger than the stock 16MM shaft. All in all, ... the guy I bought the motor from and Sorensen both said that for what I want, the prop should be just fine.

I was wanting to know what the #41 meant. I have seen a couple of others on the internet like a #36 and a #31. I Sorensen when I was ordering parts from him.



Thanks Again
Bill

[Jack Stotts]

Usually the original prop shafts have the shear pin hole near the aft end of the housing where as the American shafts have the pin hole towards the end of the shaft. Having the hole near the housing makes for a possible shaft breakage and loss of the prop. Jack

[BillCNC]

Doc,

I have all the parts to ego either way. In Fact, I had a set of pulleys that came with my steering kit, but the pulleys that came with it didn't work with the steering bar so I bought a new pair from Sorensens, although they are smaller in diameter. The original ones I had, are 2.375" in diameter and the new ones are 1.625" in diameter.

The reason I swapped the larger ones out was because they mounted with a (J) hook which scares me. The smaller ones mount with 5/16" snap hooks.

Bill

[BillCNC]

Usually the original prop shafts have the shear pin hole near the aft end of the housing where as the American shafts have the pin hole towards the end of the shaft. Having the hole near the housing makes for a possible shaft breakage and loss of the prop. Jack

Thanks Jack,

But if the shaft breaks at the shear pin area, wont the prop be lost on both scenarios?

Sorensens said the 1/16 shaft mod actually made the shafts themselves weaker and the the only gain is easier prop tuning with a much greater spectrum of props.

As for myself, I have no intentions as of yet to go racing. I dont think I will want to either. I used to race Speedway (motorcycles with no brakes and only one gear) and it was a hassle as the races were scattered to hell and back. Hours upon hours of driving and if you won, you didn't even recoup half the cost of gas just to get you their and back. But it was fun, I have to say that. It's been many years since then and on to many injuries.

Bill

[BillCNC]

Can someone please post pictures of how they routed and mounted their throttle cable?

Thanks
Bill

[Jack Stotts]

I have never seen a shaft break with the american style props and pin arrangement and don't believe it's an issue. I can't same the same for the forward hole configuration. The statment about prop options is very important.Jack

[mercguy]

Can someone please post pictures of how they routed and mounted their throttle cable?

Thanks
Bill

here ya go........