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25xs novice

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  • 25xs novice

    I have an old 25xs with the older longer shaft that I bought ages ago. It has not been run in forever. Motor looks brand new.

    I know very little about the motor and what is needed to keep it in top running condition. Is there anything out there on 25xs matainence and or repair?

    My father and I built a hydro 20 years ago as a father son project. Now I am thinking of building a lighter more up to date hydro. I was hoping to use this motor. Also any recommendations on good 25xs hydro plans?

    All advice appreciated,

    Kyle
    Last edited by KyleMalmin; 08-26-2010, 03:44 PM.

  • #2
    Let us know what part of the country you are in and the racers will literally come out of the woodwork to help.

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    • #3
      I live in Western North Carolina. The last race I went to was up in West Virginia, which was a long time ago. They were racing 25xs, Yamatos(spelling?) Johnson 15 and 44. Hydroplanes and runabouts. I really want to go to another race. Are there any down my way or are they all up in the north east?

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      • #4
        25xs

        Check out Apba-racing.com and look under the Events tab then race schedule and then look thru the various months. Note some of the races may not be approved yet therefore the details of the race will not be known until future time.

        As far as maintence for your engine not much out there other than basics. As a start suggest barrel start to see if it runns with fresh gas and tcw3 oil mix at 25:1, check plugs and replace as needed, carb may need cleaning and gaskets replaced and float adjusted, replace the gear oil in the lower unit with a marine grade 80 -90 gear oil.

        If difficulty starting check spark by grounding plugs against block while hand pulling and check compression, a decent stock 25xs should gage 140 to 150 psi in each cylindere hand pulling over 3 to 4 times. Once running other issues may appear that need servicing.

        Once on a boat and run at speed other engine repairs/adjustments might be needed.
        "Keep Move'n" life is catching up!
        No man's life, liberty or property are safe while the legislature is in session.

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        • #5
          Appreciate the reply. I will check the compression this weekend if I get the time. I wanted to take the lower unit apart to check everything. Its been sitting for so long. Is there a good place on the web to get a cone removal tool for the 25xs? My engine has the old long ehaust housing, not the new shorter. Are the foots the same? If not, are the tools interchangable?

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          • #6
            25xs

            Originally posted by KyleMalmin View Post
            Appreciate the reply. I will check the compression this weekend if I get the time. I wanted to take the lower unit apart to check everything. Its been sitting for so long. Is there a good place on the web to get a cone removal tool for the 25xs? My engine has the old long ehaust housing, not the new shorter. Are the foots the same? If not, are the tools interchangable?
            I believe the foot on the 25xs has the same cone nut as the the A/B/C/D foot (kg7,20H, 25ss, 30H, 40H, 55H) cone and thus the same cone removal tool.

            Here is one place that sells a repo cone tool.

            http://store.eastcoastmarineservice....ory_s/1565.htm

            Suggest search I-net for other sources.

            I do not know the torque for the 25xs cone but on my 1973 25ss I find 70 ft-lbs more than adaquate. Grease the cone threads before install to keep threads from damage. After installing the cone nut I place a Sharpie black mark across the cone nut and the housing as a telltale to monitor if the cone nut has loosened between servicing the prop shaft cone needle bearings.

            Note the cone has reverse threads so wrench clockwise to remove.

            Post your compression numbers. Also note and post the gage readings after each pull up to max reading. Reading between cylinderes should not differ by more than 10%.
            "Keep Move'n" life is catching up!
            No man's life, liberty or property are safe while the legislature is in session.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by KyleMalmin View Post

              My father and I built a hydro 20 years ago as a father son project. Now I am thinking of building a lighter more up to date hydro. I was hoping to use this motor. Also any recommendations on good 25xs hydro plans?

              All advice appreciated,

              Kyle
              Contact MJR for a great set of plans.

              - Mike Pavlick

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              • #8
                Making your own wrench is very easy and you can make it with a handle. Had 2 of the merc ones used the one I made for years. Very inexpensive to make.


                Todd

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                • #9
                  Well went out and hung the motor on the boat and checked the compression of each cylinder. I only got 120 in each cylinder with my gage in 3 pulls. C ylinders were both exact. But, that's no where near the 140 and 150 ZUL8TR mentioned. The motor is basically new so I don't get it. Maybe my gage is poor or is the 140 and 150 modified?

                  I'm going to take the carberator off and clean it up because the engine has sat so long. Probably last run in 1990.
                  Attached Files

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                  • #10
                    Tod

                    I haven't gotten a cone wrench yet. Got any to sell or can you describe how you made yours?

                    Also do you know of a good place to get sheer pins for this motor?

                    Kyle

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                    • #11
                      Prop wrench

                      Sorry I did not see this sooner. I will give you one of my wrenches send me a PM with your address.

                      Todd

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                      • #12
                        I would suggest that unless there is evidence of water in the gear foot to just change the lube in it. Taking it apart should not be necessary. Remember it's left hand thread if you decide to press on. Also you may want to simply remove the gear foot from the down housing and rotate the shaft to see if it is smooth. Jack

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                        • #13
                          I'll second Mike Pavlik's quote

                          Originally posted by pav225 View Post
                          Contact MJR for a great set of plans.

                          - Mike Pavlick
                          Definitely check out MJR for your boat plans. I've built 3 boats from his CSH plans. There is a lot of attention to detail. And should you decide to make the step into racing, you've got a fantastic, fast and stable hull. Talk to him about your thoughts on what class you may want to run and perhaps he can help you decide which boat to build that would easily convert to a current class being run today.

                          Rick Wagner Sr

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                          • #14
                            You willl need a minimum of 8 pulls to get an accurate compression test, with the last 3 being as had as you can. I always ran 10:1 in my 25XS.

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                            • #15
                              25xs compression

                              Originally posted by ricochet112 View Post
                              You willl need a minimum of 8 pulls to get an accurate compression test, with the last 3 being as had as you can. I always ran 10:1 in my 25XS.
                              what compression pressures do you get with your 25xs?
                              "Keep Move'n" life is catching up!
                              No man's life, liberty or property are safe while the legislature is in session.

                              Comment

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