in line fuel filters

[GuyWithTheCoolBoat]

ok leave it to me the rookie to have yet another probably obvious/dumb question. i have gotten all my problems fixed now and am ready to go for a dip.. BUTTTTT after all my carb problems with that main needle on my 302.. i was wondering what the input on the small inline gauze type filters are. more specifically the dollar kind at wally world. my concern is they might either clog with oil or filter some oil out of the mixed fuel causing me to run a leaner mixture than desired... is this a problem? i currently have the clear plastic inline gravity kind on there but that seems to let some stuff through. <<< for me in advance

[bill van steenwyk]

A great fuel filter sold is one that the main body is made of metal, with clear plastic see thru that contains a removable/cleanable filter element. I and others used this type for many years in the PRO category and never had any problem with oil separation from the fuel. I just saw some being sold at Home Depot the other day in a "blister pack" type packaging. They have nipples on each end that hose slips over easily. Best to use a small clamp to attach/secure the hose. Don't remember the price, but they are reasonable. This is the same type I mentioned in my reply post to you when you were having carb problems a couple of weeks ago. They are a very common type filter and can be found a lot of other places in case you don't have a Home Depot near by. Have also seen them in I believe West Marine and Bass Pro.

CAUTION:
There is a right and wrong way to insert these in the fuel supply line. They are marked with an arrow, so if you choose this type be sure you have it in the fuel supply route the right way.

[TONY TRUJILLO r11]

go to www.apsorderonline.com it is for AMERICAN POWER SPORTS a go kart supply warehouse on page 142 the WALBRO clear body in line fuel filter works good for gas but not alcohol part # w2901 cost $ 1.89 or you can call them to get a catalog @1-800-262-0555. good luck !

[TONY TRUJILLO r11]

Bill is correct on the glass in line filter make sure you put the filter in the right direction or you will have problems that's why i go with the WALBRO style it has a arrow on it and says flow so anyone can put it on and 2cycle go kart racers have been using this style for years with no problems.

[bill boyes]

Check the fuel tank outlet. 102's have a stand off type screen. Whereas the 302's have a small screen on the outlet about 1/4 in in diameter. You will need to remove the fitting and use a pocket knife to cut away the screen. They can plug up and give you lots of problems.

[GuyWithTheCoolBoat]

Check the fuel tank outlet. 102's have a stand off type screen. Whereas the 302's have a small screen on the outlet about 1/4 in in diameter. You will need to remove the fitting and use a pocket knife to cut away the screen. They can plug up and give you lots of problems.

bill, thanks for that tip. i do still have that screen in and wasnt aware of any problems with that. ill tear it out of there tomorrow.. as for everybody else thanks as well. headed to teh store to get an inline. i dont have anything readily available in terms of omc west marine or even a marina within 2 hours of here (downside to living in the boonies), but there is a walmart with some fo the cheap clear inline gauze filters that do have arrows on them ( i use them on my buggies). thanks again

[mercguy]

fitlers.........

I would highly recommend AGAINST anyone using the glass style fuel filters...............they can break easily, especially in rough water if they contact the block. The cheap little inline plastic ones work OK, but just as easy filtering the gas when filling up the tank. They have funnels with screens in them..............


guess I should spell FILTERS correctly in the header...................duh!!!!!!!

[bill van steenwyk]

glass bodied fuel filters

Darren:

I would agree that the glass body type of filter could cause a problem breakage wise, although that was not a problem with the way we used them.

We had two types of bodies/covers for them. As you are aware, the filter body comes apart by removing each end so as to provide access to the cleanable filter element, at least that is the way the ones we used were made. As previously mentioned there was a right and wrong way to assemble them to assure correct fuel flow. They were marked with an arrow to show that.

Kay Harrison was the first one I was aware of to use this type filter, and he made (from thinwall aluminum tubing I assume) an aluminum cover section that replaced the glass or see thru section. Same type filter and cleanable element and ends with the slip on gas line feature both ends, just with a different center section cover. This type should work fine with a motor mounted tank and eliminate the concern you pointed out, as there is no glass to break and retains the cleanable filter element and also allows inspection of the element very quickly by just unscrewing the two ends from the main body. You might even be able to find the right size aluminum tubing and just cut to length for use with this type. I am not sure what Kay used, although he certainly had the capability of machining them from scratch.

I used both types of center cover, the glass one when testing, and the aluminum one when racing so as to not take a chance on something breaking and cutting off fuel flow. Since I used a tank in the boat and could route the filter so it was not close to anything else, breakage of the glass was not a concern or problem. I used the glass type cover when testing so as to be able to see if I had any type potential problem with dirt or crud in the fuel so that problem could be rectified before the race and not have a problem during. There can be a problem with the glass body, but IMHO the advantages far outway the potential problems, given the ability to see whether you actually have a fuel flow problem from the tank, and the ability to quickly clean the filter if you do. Of course you always want to be sure to use some type of hose clamp to secure the fuel line on both ends of the filter body.

Should have been a little more clear on how we did it, using that type filter.

[pro350hydro]

Here is the style of filter I have ran for years. They have a brass filter piece that is removable, cleanable, and can be replaced if needed. I have ran these for years with gas and alcohol and never had one problem with them. When I purchased my filters, I bought replacement brass filters and have never needed to replace them. I just cleaner them out with brake cleaner.

Hope this helps. Oh yeah, they are about 9$, but its the last filter you will ever have to buy.

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produc...fCatId=&mmyId=

[blueskyracer]

I must say a filter is a must. After last year at Moses when our boat was towed in upside down and I saw all the sand in the back side of the clear filter. It was really nice knowing none of that stuff was going to make it to the carb!! We use the clear VW type filters and they work great. I carry about 6 in the trailer. Won't leave home with out them.

[trident]

Fuel Filters

I agree that some sort of filter is a must... on all motors, not just the Yamatos.

I've had good results with the OMC filter part # 397715, as used on the 45SS motor, among others. Used this on a 102, 44XS, and various Mods up to FEH.

Its also a 'take apart' filter, no tools required. I've never had to replace one. Just clean, reassemble and go.

Even have one on my Merc Classic 50 service motor. OMG! a non-Merc part!

I'd just caution you to mount it with the flow arrow in the correct direction AND mount it ahead of the fuel pump as well as the carb(s). Don't want dirt, crud or that piece of grass holding open a check valve (been there) in the pump, either.

Jerry

[GuyWithTheCoolBoat]

i have opted to go with the cheaper clear wally world inline clear plastic filters because i have used them on my buggies before and know that even being cheap arent all that bad. not to mention that aside from napa this is the only place to buy filters around for 2 hours in any direction.... and theyre a dime a dozen so changing one every outing wont cost hardly anything.

[RTM]

When gas and oil are mixed together it is impossible for them to separate, or for a filter to let one run through, and block the other one. However ethanol can separate from gasoline over time becuase they are not similar liquids.

[Al Peffley]

Filter Options

I have used the ceramic go-kart filters in the aluminum housings for methanol Pro motors with success, and I now use a Mercedes Benz inline diesel filter like the European boat racers and Pro Kart guys here in the US use for alcohol fuel setups. For my Yamato 102's I tried a plastic WIX inline filter with some success, but I still had the best performance and visibility of flow quality from the glass-cylinder Purolator Pro Racing Filters (like the gas classes dragstrip racers use.) I wrapped the exposed glass cylinder with some flexible, clear plastic sheeting to protect the glass from the block and was still able to see the filter flow. You can cut the fuel line section lengths so that the filter does not rest against the block. You can also paste a bumper on the block underneath the filter. Wartinger advised me to use those Purolator racing filters many years ago (he has a few records to prove their worth.) I bought my filters at a performance car parts store. I am sure you can buy or order them (and the repalcement filter elements) at any NAPA parts store. Make sure you order the right connector nipple size for your fuel line ID. I have used those glass inline filters for years on my hot rods -- great filter!

An added tip on fuel supply filtering: women's pantyhose works great as a second crud filter over the top of your gas filler funnel when refilling your gas tank! Always filter your fuel when you fill your motor tank or transfer fuel between storage containers. Also, today's standard pump gas fuel goes bad in about three months without any special additive treatment.

Al