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**PRO-MOTIONRACING** · 06-19-2010, 03:11 PM

You just have a little dirt/crud in the needle and seat just take the fitting off the bottom of the carb, clean it out and you will be fine 50-R

**bill van steenwyk** · 06-19-2010, 04:32 PM

fuel filter would be helpful

I think the same thing as the previous poster. You probably have some trash between the float needle and it's seat, holding it open and allowing the fuel to flow right on out the top of the float bowl and out the main dump tube. As he mentioned it is normally a really easy fix. Just take the nut off the bottom of the float bowl and usually when the fuel runs out, it will take the trash with it unless it is something long that has gotten hung up in the seat. If that doesn't stop the problem, take the little clip off the float needle that is above the float by removing the float top of the carb that is held on by a couple of screws, remove the float up out of the bowl, (the needle may have more than one position for the clip, be sure you get it back in the right place) and the float needle should drop right out the bottom. Always use needle nose pliers that are magnetic when removing the little clip from the float needle, as the little clip is easy to loose when removing. If it tries to "fly away" the magnetic pliers will catch it. Then it (the float bowl) is easy to flush out throughly.

ADD: I have never had the carb on a 302 apart, but most float type carbs are very similar in construction. If the float needle does not have a small clip holding the float at a certain height, it may have a couple of wires soldered on the float top acting as a clip to serve the same purpose. However it is secured on the needle, be sure when you replace it, it goes back in the same location if the needle has several different notches it could be placed.

If this is the problem, or even if not, always be sure to use a filter when mixing your fuel as a preventive measure, and also when pouring it in the storage tank and then the tank on the engine. Also an inline fuel filter between the tank and carb will catch stuff that may get in the fuel while mixing or storing. There are a number of different type of filters that have cleanable elements inside a clear plastic housing so they may be inspected, and then taken apart and cleaned when dirty. You can usually find these at your local auto parts store. It never ceased to amaze me what stuff you would find in these filters, even though you think you are using every precaution when buying and mixing fuel.

Good Luck

**Jack Stotts** · 06-19-2010, 04:52 PM

It could be that the float pin is sticking against the bottom edge of the top plate and not allowing the float to rise and shut off the inflow. If the pin protrudes out the top of the top plate then it's just junk in the float valve. After you get done cleaning, check the float setting. The top of the float should be 1 1/4 inch from the top end of the pin. It can be adjusted with the little retaining nut at the top of the float. Jack

**GuyWithTheCoolBoat** · 06-19-2010, 06:15 PM

thanks for the help guys.. got fed up with trying to clean it.. (i had called rick at rpm marine and he told me to do the same.. that was a no go).. didnt work.. got halfway across the canal (a few hundred yards) and bam.. flooded out.. so i had a two stroke boat motor junkie at the launch help me pull it apart and he saw nothing in there other than the gasket at the top of the bowl had a leak. he suspected that maybe on a long shot it could be sucking air in there and possibly causing a problem, but doubted it. ( we cleaned and tried this a few times and each time it did the lovely flooding trick on me) we were a bit sped and forgot to check the float height before removing it.. so thanks jack.. wasnt sure where to go and we guessed by a little bit of a wear mark. so after a bit of tinkering i decided that before i muck things up worse i should probably just send this thing to somebody who knows what theyre doing and has parts on hand and just have it done right and cure any problems now or short term that may arise. got any ideas on who to go to? also.. with my luck i dinged my practice (and only ) prop.. who can rework this? pictures (available if needed/desired. ).

**PRO-MOTIONRACING** · 06-19-2010, 11:21 PM

OK, this works with all carbs and gives you fresh breath. Once you have the carb off, cleaned and reassembled as a final check flip the carb upside down, suck on the fuel inlet and put your tongue over the end, it should hold suction. If not check the needle and seat and the float action again until it will. It may be crude but it works with all float carbs and can save time putting it on just to take it back off.

P.S. is the tank vent open and working.

**GuyWithTheCoolBoat** · 06-20-2010, 08:15 AM

the tank vent has a breather tube that is always open to prevent air lock. i typically run two side tanks as well because i have a marathon c but dont have them in so its just the gravity tank thats breathing through a tube up top like it always has (diaphragm sucked fuel in from both tanks and it goes into the grav and into the carb). there was a very slightly visible wear line on the needle but with your nail you couldnt feel it. i took some 1000 grit and 3 circles later it was gone but nothing changes better or worse. ill try the suction thing. if not i think im going to just send ti off. i keep cleaning and recleaning and nothing seems to change. and its about time for a rebuild anyways. thanks
322-m

**trident** · 06-20-2010, 08:53 AM

Carb 101: Storage

On carbs, ever notice how often this problem is there after taking a motor out of storage?

Two observations:

1) some people use Stabil. I do. But I learned the hard way to follow instructions. More is NOT better. Too much will stick a float needle...

2) which brings us to the other tip. Store the motor, with Stabil or not, with the float bowl empty, inlet needle open.

A closed needle sticks pretty easily with any goo, or crud from left from evaporating fuel (be especially careful not to use ethanol 'enhanced' gas. That crap turns to 'tar' over a winter). An empty float bowl, dry, takes fuel, and fires right up, no problem, even after extended storage.

I drain the bowl(s) and even flush the system with Naphtha, if I expect long storage... I want powerheads swimming in oil and fuel systems dry while they are sleeping.

My fishing boat and all my small engines get stored for winter the same way, with dry float bowls. Then I use the time I saved not fixing my motors fixing motors for neighbors who won't listen. They become believers when nothing starts in spring.

Hope this helps.

Jerry Wienandt
Trident Racing

**sax** · 06-20-2010, 10:17 AM

It's also a good idea to drain all fuel from the tank and carb before
putting it in the trailer box after a weekend of racing. This way, the
the needle is sitting on the bottom of the seat and is not bouncing
around causing extra wear on both the needle and seat.

**mike ross** · 06-20-2010, 10:26 AM

Can't we get a U tube vesion of this with a pretty girl demonstrating this. I know she would be a crazy hit. Mikey

**GuyWithTheCoolBoat** · 06-20-2010, 10:41 AM

i had actually cleaned the float bowl out entirely as well as emptied the fuel from the grav tank and everything else. boat got sanded and refinished and the motor sat clean and dry in my heated basement all winter. was planning on sending carb to rpm michigan rep tom john johnston.. any comments on this? rpm has been good to me on parts as well as darrel sorensen but i can never get a hold fop darrel.

**seanp3** · 06-21-2010, 06:51 AM

Originally posted by Jack Stotts View Post

It could be that the float pin is sticking against the bottom edge of the top plate and not allowing the float to rise and shut off the inflow. If the pin protrudes out the top of the top plate then it's just junk in the float valve. After you get done cleaning, check the float setting. The top of the float should be 1 1/4 inch from the top end of the pin. It can be adjusted with the little retaining nut at the top of the float. Jack

Good advise here. Is the float pin protruding through the top of the float bowl? Also, check to make sure the float pin is straight. I had one slightly bent that would hang up. Make sure it is not hanging up. Also take a tape measure and measure the length of the float pin. What is your measurement? You may need to lengthen it a bit to get the fuel valve to close.

**ricochet112** · 06-21-2010, 06:59 AM

Originally posted by bill van steenwyk View Post

I think the same thing as the previous poster. You probably have some trash between the float needle and it's seat, holding it open and allowing the fuel to flow right on out the top of the float bowl and out the main dump tube. As he mentioned it is normally a really easy fix. Just take the nut off the bottom of the float bowl and usually when the fuel runs out, it will take the trash with it unless it is something long that has gotten hung up in the seat. If that doesn't stop the problem, take the little clip off the float needle that is above the float by removing the float top of the carb that is held on by a couple of screws, remove the float up out of the bowl, (the needle may have more than one position for the clip, be sure you get it back in the right place) and the float needle should drop right out the bottom. Always use needle nose pliers that are magnetic when removing the little clip from the float needle, as the little clip is easy to loose when removing. If it tries to "fly away" the magnetic pliers will catch it. Then it (the float bowl) is easy to flush out throughly.

ADD: I have never had the carb on a 302 apart, but most float type carbs are very similar in construction. If the float needle does not have a small clip holding the float at a certain height, it may have a couple of wires soldered on the float top acting as a clip to serve the same purpose. However it is secured on the needle, be sure when you replace it, it goes back in the same location if the needle has several different notches it could be placed.

If this is the problem, or even if not, always be sure to use a filter when mixing your fuel as a preventive measure, and also when pouring it in the storage tank and then the tank on the engine. Also an inline fuel filter between the tank and carb will catch stuff that may get in the fuel while mixing or storing. There are a number of different type of filters that have cleanable elements inside a clear plastic housing so they may be inspected, and then taken apart and cleaned when dirty. You can usually find these at your local auto parts store. It never ceased to amaze me what stuff you would find in these filters, even though you think you are using every precaution when buying and mixing fuel.

Good Luck

FYI, these carbs are very different, the brass needle (with no viton tip) is connected directly through the center of the float, no hinge pin, no needle clip...

add, think Merc Tillotson float but the pin is connected to the float with a tapered seat below the float.

**GuyWithTheCoolBoat** · 06-21-2010, 12:45 PM

the needle flows just fine throught he top. i checked for straightness many times as well. even took some 1000 grit to it to take off any burs that i might not be seeing.. nothing... i really need to learn about this carb as well as my motor. other than the basic yamato owners manual.. anybody got any ideas for good reading material to help the carb-impossibles like me?

**mike ross** · 06-21-2010, 01:16 PM

i will be in the UP July 5th if you dont get it straightened out. Near Newberry.

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