My #2 motor won't start

[mdaspit]

I have a '69 40 HP Evinrude, that I can't get current to the starter from the ignition switch.

It's on a piece of crap 14 foot boat, but its all I have to use for a pick up boat for testing.

I replaced the starter solinoid, and I have current at the solinoid, and if I put a jumper to the starter motor from the batt. it will crank, but not from the ignition switch.

It has an electric choke and I can hear it engage when I activate the choke switch from the dash, but not even a click from the starter.

The electric choke will show a draw of current on the amp gauge, but not even a wiggle when I try to start it.

it has this other stuff on it like a "cut out switch" and a "safety switch".
Could that be a problem, and can I take that crap off?

It's pitiful how little I know.

[Blackhawkguy]

check cables

check your battery cables, you may have voltage but no amprege, cables may be full of corrosion which causes resistance. Make sure you also have a good ground, as long as you have not changed any parts I would check the cables, they will fool you all the time.

Kerry

[Guest]

Use your #1 engine.

[mdaspit]

Use your #1 engine.

Yeah, I was trying to be funny, I should have known better.
Not only a bad mechanic, but an even worse comedian.

[johnsonm50]

I have a '69 40 HP Evinrude, that I can't get current to the starter from the ignition switch.

It's on a piece of crap 14 foot boat, but its all I have to use for a pick up boat for testing.

I replaced the starter solinoid, and I have current at the solinoid, and if I put a jumper to the starter motor from the batt. it will crank, but not from the ignition switch.

It has an electric choke and I can hear it engage when I activate the choke switch from the dash, but not even a click from the starter.

The electric choke will show a draw of current on the amp gauge, but not even a wiggle when I try to start it.

it has this other stuff on it like a "cut out switch" and a "safety switch".
Could that be a problem, and can I take that crap off?

It's pitiful how little I know.

Unplug the switch harness at the motor, [not the battery cables] jump the motor as you did & see if it will start. The ignition on the motor is self contained & 'on' needing only motion to start. The key/choke/hot horn is add on stuff. If it will start that eliminates the neutral safe sw. & the cut-out as a problem and indicates harness trouble. Then, if practical you can run it manually [assuming it isnt electric shift].
As far as the problem, bad ground is your 1st thing to look for then a corroded or broken connection. Then look wherever there is movement like where the harness goes thru the cowling. Wires can break inside the insulation at these points. Bad switch is a possibility too. Most of All.. Good Luck.

[johnsonm50]

Unplug the switch harness at the motor, [not the battery cables] jump the motor as you did & see if it will start. The ignition on the motor is self contained & 'on' needing only motion to start. The key/choke/hot horn is add on stuff. If it will start that eliminates the neutral safe sw. & the cut-out as a problem and indicates harness trouble. Then, if practical you can run it manually [assuming it isnt electric shift].
As far as the problem, bad ground is your 1st thing to look for then a corroded or broken connection. Then look wherever there is movement like where the harness goes thru the cowling. Wires can break inside the insulation at these points. Bad switch is a possibility too. Most of All.. Good Luck.

Oh, & Blackhawkguy is right, cables.. 1st thing to check. Ive learned [more than once] to check all the free fixes 1st then go for the wallet.

[Blackhawkguy]

like the other guy said

After I posted I forgot to mention the neutral switch, but I put a new starter on a guys pontoon once and low and behold it did not work either, had 13
volts but no amps, found big ball of green gook in the positive cable under the floor, use comon sense trouble shooting and you will find problem, not to compicated of motor.

Kerry

P.S. We just had one of these in this fall, also make sure the cover on the electrical box is not grounding out the solinoid, we had the cover touching the post that energizes the solinoid thus when you turned the key to crank it just went to ground instead of activating the solinoid, I believe someone had installed a new solinoid and must of been a little bit bigger than the old one, also make sure you have the right kind of solinoid, base ground or wire ground to the second little post, it makes a big difference, if you have the wrong kind of ground it will not work

[mdaspit]

Thanks guys-

I'll try those things. Thanks, I appreciate it.

And by the way, unfortunately it is electric shift.
Is the nuetral safety switch that little black push button type switch with one wire to it located aft under the fly wheel pulley?
If so, should the button be in or out for it to work?

Is there an easy way to make it in-operable?

[Blackhawkguy]

Just follow the voltage

Get a cheap test light and start at point A and go to point B, get someone to hold the key in crank and make sure you have voltage on the wire on the back of the key swith and follow the wire checking for voltage all the way, where it stops is your problem, all the above mentioned things can and will happen, keep it simple.

Kerry

[oknitro]

Get a Sea-Doo

[johnsonm50]

Thanks guys-

I'll try those things. Thanks, I appreciate it.

And by the way, unfortunately it is electric shift.
Is the nuetral safety switch that little black push button type switch with one wire to it located aft under the fly wheel pulley?
If so, should the button be in or out for it to work?

Is there an easy way to make it in-operable?

Im not sure on the switch but its either grounded or not so can be bypassed. The elecrtric shift should go into forward on its own. So.. if you bypass the N switch and start it.. It can start wide open throttle -in gear. Careful with that.

[mac19f]

Switch

I believe on that engine the switch behind the flywheel is set up to interupt starting with the throttle too far advanced. Take the wire off the switch and ground it to the block and see it it will start.

[mdaspit]

I learn something every day

Get a Sea-Doo

Y'all know about those?
I didn't know they had them in Oklahoma yet...

[mdaspit]

Thanks

Yeehaw... The Cowboy Yacht lives!
It was the neutral safety switch.
Thanks guys, I really appreciate it.

Hey Oknitro, you should bring your fleet of new Hemp Boats down and do some testing with us...

[Jack Stotts]

Mark, glad to see that you got the yacht running. I'll be home on Tues 1 Dec and be around until Christmas. Going skiing in Utah then. I'm ready to help in testing and possibly Dan can come too. He could test his and mine while we get you going with the new prop. Do you have a place in mind where the lake patrol will not get us? Jack